gazzaecowarrior

Surely thats the whole point of a forum i.e. to glean information from fellow riders. Trips to bike shops cost money. Forums don't. This forum has helped me sort out so many problems over the years. In answering the question though, I would follow the advice that others have given. Could be worth checking all the 4 stroke stuff like valve clearences and tappets. Also, youve got a diaphragm carb on the 4t so its worth giving that a good blow out. Its a bit of a fiddly carb. Also the rubber boot on the cylinder side that the carb goes into hasnt got a huge amount of purchase on it so make sure that it is seated well. Hope this helps.

I can only speak for previous bikes I've had when this has happened as I don't own an evo. But I've allways used a little bit of PTFE tape on t he thread before I re-assemble the petcock to the fuel tank. Hope this helps.

Loads of good posts here. I never use the hot start either. Just a slow kick with a dab of throttle. If you drop the bike remember its got an electric fuel tap so you will need to over ride it by flipping the black lever near the tap to get fuel in the bowl. Enjoy the bike !!

I'm loving it as a concept. Most people (outside our community) hate off raod sport because of the noise so at least that problem is helped. Motorsport has a massive environmental impact so it's good to try and alleviate that as it would be greener. I think it looks a bit cheap to be honest though but it may be a prototype. I wonder how it would cope on a dirty welsh trial in december ?

That sounds right.

Hi there I'm writing this without looking at my bike but I think the pipe that is on the right hand side of the carb runs up the side of the fuel tank to where the fuel cap area is and acts as a breather. The one on the left hand side goes to a t type connector which joins another breather pipe and goes down to the swing arms area. Hope this helps.

That would be a good idea too. Was that the advice for the Rev 3's ?

An air line will not cause condensation if there is access for air to get in and exit afterwards. Thats why air compressors have drain plugs. The hole on the top could also be used to spray in water dispersant like gt85.

That sounds a good idea. I'm on the assumption that water is going to get in whatever so the best outcome would be for it to be able to get out. Agree ?

If as you say 'function should predict form' beta would have designed the bike with a kickstart that didn't hit the frame and hot start that worked. manafactures aren't perfect and designs need to be tweeked. The fact that water is getting in is proof of that. Most bikes do have a drain on the flywheel cover. water and electrics, especially stator plates don't live in harmony.

It's getting in during the trial and when I wash. Most of the trials in South wales are water based. My last trial on sunday was water based on every section. I don't know if you know the rev 4 but the wires go into the cover in a very different way to most bikes I've owned. Instead of the five or so wires being housed in a sheef which then fits tightly through a rubber grommet and into the cover, the rev 4 has 5 wires which individually go through five holes into a rubber housing on the cover. Its a bugger to water tight. Im currently taking the cover off after every trial. Drilling the holes will help eleviate the need for this.

I'm going to drill a small drain hole in the flywheel cover of my Beta 250 4t flywheel cover. Even with a good gasket, water manages to get in due to it leaking around the cable entrance that exits the stator. The flywheel cover on the 4t is alloy and not plastic like it's two stroke counterparts. I was either going to drill a hole on the lowest point of the cover or cut a small hole on the edge of the flywheel cover where it meets the crankcase. What size hole do people recommend ? Too small and I imagine it will be innefective. I was also thinking of drilling another hole at the top of the flywheel cover, tapping a thread in it so that I can fit a small threaded cap to it. This would enable me to unscrew the cap and then blow an airline through it after each ride / wash. Worth doing ?

Aqua blasting or bead blasting is a finish in itself. You wouldn't need to apply a coating afterwards. Alloy is really soft and if you shotblast it you will damage it. Bead /aqua blasting is more of a surface cleaner and brings up its appearance nicely.

A good powder coating company should do that for you. they put little rubber grommets in the screw holes and mask up the other threads. Its worth having a good chat with them which holes you want left and which ones you want covered. If the sliders are alloy, have you considered having them aqua bead blasted instead ? When i restored at ty yammy I used this process on all the alloy parts. came up lovely. Hope this helps.

Definately afterwards as powder coating generally involves a good surface preperation. This would jeopardize the seal if it is often shotblast. The powder coating itself involves heat as you have to melt the plastic onto the metal and again this may damage the seal. Make sure they know not to powder coat inside the slider too.

Just wanted to say a massive thanks to Gary Whitaker and John Lampkin Imports. They kindly accepted that there had been a defect in a kickstart that had broken on my bike and replaced it immediatly. The part was over a year old. So many companies would have said 'that's tough' but Beta have come up trumps once again. Beta seem to get a bit of a pasting on this site with stories about stators failing etc but I have found Beta Uk brilliant in all regards whether it be sales or simply advice on bike set up. Many thanks and well done.

I've still got my 08 Rev 4 and it's bullet proof to be honest. My 08 Rev 4 still had a rubbing kickstart. It isn't the lever that's the problem, it's the spindle itself which is too short. I'm sure I even had to remove the clutch basket to get it out. The carb is a diaphragm carb so it is virtually maintenance free. The throttle is heavy mind. The 07 didn't come with a front pipe heat shield either so get one or you will destroy your leg / boots / pants in a single tumble. I bought one designed for moto-x bikes from DRC racing. One thing to notice on the rev 4 is that the stator cover is cast alloy and not plastic like the rev 3's. I originally thought this was due to the stator and flywheel being encased in oil like on the moto-x'rs but it isn't. Water does get in here so make sure you remove this cover after every wash and let it dry out. The rev 4 engine is virtually the same as the evo 4t so I think the engine speaks for itself. I hope you like the bike as much as I have enjoyed mine the last 2 years.

Hi there My stator went on my 08 rev 4t. It was

The same happened with my TY175 when I fitted the Sammy Miller pegs which were wider. I just took the spring out of the peg on the kickstart side and problem solved. When you start it just lean the bike slightly to keep the peg up and then when it's started, flick the peg down. Worked for me.

I've also got the oiled version and I was told the 50 is the biggest. Thankfully I just squeezed into mine and I'm 35 now so hopefully I wont get any bigger. Good luck with the quest. They do usually give quite a big with age. Mine certainly have.

Well i never thought this topic would be so hotly discussed. Wasn't poking fun by saying 'cavalier attitude'. I was just suprised people didn't seem to care about the law. Maybe thats another reason why off road sport is in such a mess. But thats another topic. As an update, I spoke to the towbar manafacturer and they now tell me that the load limit of 50kg on the nose was actually a misprint and that it should have read 75kg. Thankfully this mirrors the 75kg nose limit that Mitsubishi stipulate. My Beta is bang on this weight so all is well. In supporty of bike racks over trailers. Not all of us have garages at the side of the house to store our bikes and accessories. I live in wales, live in a terraced house and everything has to come through the front door. I have no lane access. It's bad enough bringing a bike through the house never mind a trailer. I've used racks for 20 years and love them. No speed restrictions or problems reversing down country lanes.

I love all of your cavalier attitudes but I think Im going to return it. I really don't fancy sharing a cell with some idiot after Im taken down on a manslaughter charge after my beta ploughs into a school bus when the towbar snaps. Just found a towbar for the car with a 90kg limit so that will do. I thought all towbars would have the same limits. I hope I get a refund on the old one as the limit wasn't advertised.

Hi there Just bought a towbar from Anker towbars for my Shogun Pinin. Just read their safety sticker on the towbar and it states that there is a vertical load limit of 60kg. Does this mean I can't legally use my bike rack on it. My Rev 4 is 75kg and my rack is probably another 5kg making it 80kg in total. I've got a similar mounted towbar on my VW Transporter but never even noticed any load limit when fitting it. Any ideas ? Are there towbars with greater limits available for my car or is 60kg the normal vertical load limit and people just ignore this warning ? The fixings certainly look substantial enough to take the weight. Gareth

You are dead right about over cooking them. I overdid the thermal cycling process by doing it on a padock stand in fourth gear. Plenty of steam. Did it 3 times. The pads disintegrated and literally turned to chalk. New pads on order. It is a learning curve.

Which account of mine do you want to put that tenner into ? I can take paypal if that helps !!