gazzaecowarrior

Thanks for that. No wonder the spanish economy is in a bad way. So it could simply be that maybe the lugs that the snail cams notch onto are not equal or maybe as you say there are other imperfections in the frame / swingarm.

Hi pete Yes that makes good sense. Sadly the front wheel has gone back to the wheel builders to be corrected so i can't do what you say. I ran a straight edge from the rear sprocket and it seemed to hit the front sproket true. This was at the same time as the tyre looked central at the front of the swingarm. But there is about 5 notches out on the snail cams. I'm only paranoid of the rear wheel as the spoker made such a botch of the front. Surely he couldnt have got two wrong ? Or maybe he jsut got his mesurements for each wheel the wrong way round.

Hi B40RT. No i don't think it's that. The bike has never been trialed. Frame and swing arm look true. I've got a horrible feeling the wheel isnt right.

As some may know Im currently restoring and rebuilding a Mont MH123. I've had both wheels respoked. Turned out yesterday that the front wheel has been respoked at the wrong angle and had a bias to the left by about 4mm. Obviously I've started to panic whether the rear one is also spoked wrong but it is far harder to check. The wheel seems to line up straight but only when the snail cams are adjusted in a non symmetrical manner . The chain sounds and looks like it's running straight. But the adjusting cams on the rear spindle are not in symmetrical positions to achieve this and are a few notches different to each other. They are identical cams. On my beta the cams were allways in pretty much identical positions either side. Is it common for the positions of each of these cams to be so different or am i correct in thinking maybe the rear wheel has also been spoked incorrectly ?

Thanks Jimbo. Will pass on the info to the wheel builder. Nice one

That would be very usefull. many thanks

Well I had a good fiddle and then it struck me. I understood what you meant by how you had advanced the thick part of the spindle to make up the gap where the spacer could or should be. The spacer wasnt therfor the issue in getting the wheel in the middle as the spindle could make up the gap itself. The problem is that when i had the wheel respoked the spoker for some dapht reason had set the angle wrong and had a bias of about 6mm towards the right fork leg. Thats why no matter what I did with the spacers the tyre was allways rubbing on the fork leg dust cap. Ive just spoken to the spoker and he's apologised and said he will sort it this week. Ive measured the bias so I know how much he has to bring it in. What a pain !! I thought I was turning stupid, had never thought it could be the spokes. Thanks for all your info Jimbo.

Thanks Jimbo. That's odd. My bike hasnt got any spacer between the bearing and speedo drive. Im going to have another fiddle now that ive had a few hours away from it.

Hi there. I am puzzled. Just been assembling my front wheel. I just can't figure out where this little 4mm spacer goes on the spindle. I thought it may fit inbetween the hub and speedo drive but it doesnt. Then i tried it against the fork leg and speedo drive and it doesn't. Then i tried it against the brake plate and fork and still it doesn't sit right. Where does the damn thing go ? I'm hoping Jimbo can help me again. Im pretty certain it's not between the hub and brake plate as the plate sits too proud with it in. When I was younger I use to draw diagrams of things whilst taking them apart so i knew how to put them back. Now i think i know how to put them back and I clearly dont. Help !!!

Thanks for that Jimbo

Jimbo. Thanks once again for your advice. I had put it on the right way then. Out of interest, what is the distance between the top of your upper yoke and the top of your fork leg excluding the cap ? Gareth

Restoration is nearly complete. Just reassembled the yokes after a week of wet and drying and polishing. Was just wondering which way up the top yoke goes. Ive fitted it with the conical nut underneath the yoke with the top stem nut pushing the yoke onto the conical nut. It looks correct but i realise it could go the other way with the yoke facing the other way and the conical nut pushing the yoke onto the headtock and bearing cover. Is the first way right ? Also I may fit the road gear to this bike as it is all brand new and never used. But why is there a little LED light fitted into the number board part of the front headlight. It has spade conncetions on the back of it. How it is fitted it must be for the benefit of other road users as the rider wouldn't be able to see it when he is on the bike. Confused. Regards gareth

Jimbo According to my mh123/200 manual, the carb spec is as follows :- Make - Amal 6264/402 Diffuser diameter - 24mm Main jet - 135 Low speed jet - 20 Gas valve - 3 Sprayer - 106 Needle - 4a (2B1) Hope this helps

Thanks jimbo

Jimbo. Thanks for that information. I will give 10w 30 a go in the gearbox / clutch. Out of interest, what do you use in your forks ? Also I found getting the swing arm back on was really tight. In the end I had to slacken off all the engine mount bolts and it eventually popped on. It was the cradle engine mount under the engine which goes through the swing arm that it was tight against. It could be that the new powdercoat is a bit thick on the side of frame where the swing arm contacts it. Do you take off this cradle every time you take off the swing arm ? Seems very fiddly. gareth

Just wondering what is the round nut type thing (about 20mm tall) on the top of the left hand side crankcase above the gear box sprocket ? Is it a clutch release ? I thought at first it may be a seperate oil filler for the gear box oil but the MH 123 has combined gearbox and clutch oil. Any ideas ? It has a little felt washer seated at the bottom of it, Tried uploading a photo of it but couldn't work it out. Also how does ATf work in these bikes ? Any good ? Ive got loads left over from my old Rev 3 that I could use.

Almost certainly is the spherical bearing. I use to find them a bugger to change too. To prolong the life of mine I use to spray the bottom shock area where the bearing was with water dispersant spray after each wash. It certainly extended their life. The top bearing lasts for ever but the bottom one takes the brunt of the back wheel. getting a slightly longer shock flap will help too. People use to say not to grease it as it will only attract dirt and keep the bearing dry. They use to pop up on e bay every now and then for £15 but expect to pay £30 from the dealers.

Just rebuilt wheels for my 83 Mont 123 and was wondering if anybody knows of a suitable touch up paint for these gold rims. It is just to touch up a couple of tyre lever marks on the rim edge. How it happened I don't know as I was using rim protectors. Any ideas ?

Thanks for the reply. I was thinking of doing that. £5 seems a bit cheap but would be great if they could do it for that

Wheels are now rebuilt with powder coated hubs, new spokes and bearings. The bike is currently set up for a speedo unit. I don't think I want to refit the speedo as I want it set up for competition. A spacer will therfor be required in place of the speedo drive to fit between the hub and fork. Does anybody know if such a spacer was available through montesa or did people have to machine their own ones ? I would like to know the dimensions of such a spacer so that I can have one made. Can anybody help ? Thanks

Jimbo. You couldn't post a photo of your hub could you so there is no confusion. No worries if you cant.

Jimbo. Thanks for that. Must learn to take photos before stripping down. I live in Cardiff and there is a guy locally who is doing both wheels for £130 including parts and labour. The spokes will be galvanised not stainless. I took the wheels to him before I stripped them and he measured the spokes so I don't know what size they are.

Ive just had my hub back from the powder coaters and it's ready to be sent to be spoked. But I can't remember which way the concaved spoked flange part of the hub attatches to the conical drum. Does it attatch with the concave going outwards facing the forks i.e. bottom and smallest part of the concave closest the hub or inwards facing the drum i.e. bottom and smallest part of the concave closest the forks ? Your help would be most appreciated. Thanks.

Any idea on the year ? Is it a MH200 ? If so i've got the original manual as it shares itself with the MH123 which i've got. Let me know and I can tell you what you want to know. Gareth

an That is a nice story. The Mont 123 I've got was the model of bike I first wanted as a schoolboy. My dad was dead against motorbikes and eventually gave in and got me a ty80. Twenty odd bikes later (and a knee injury meaning no more riding) I decided to get the bike I was never allowed as a kid. It's a well put together little bike. I've got all the original road kit too.