jtt

Fatten up the pilot circuit, it will soften the initial hit.

I hate mud. ps. silicone, or similar works far better than WD40

I'd suggest you try the spline bit first, then if that doesn't work resort to cutting a slot. As for the ignition side cover, no scary stuff in there. Although if it's never been off, there maybe some corrosion on the flywheel and stator assembly. I've alway made a practice of taking the cover off periodically and spraying bits down with WD40 or similar, or at least letting it dry well inside. You'll get condensation in there commonly and usually some leaked in water as well.

Alan, why you going cable and not hydro? The cables do work excellent, just curious why you want to go cable. Unfortunately, I've been out of the bycycle biz long enough now, that I've lost most of my contacts, so can't really help you out much on getting the gear.

...and YOU BOUGHT IT???

Just push the fluid through till it flows out clear with no bubbles. Then stop and tighten the bleed screw. After the bleed is tight, you can remove the hose and syringe.

I do agree, I like Dougie's style! The determination, and "never give up" attitude is what makes True Champions. Also greatly appreciate the professionalism he shows, never snivelling or blaming others...another mark of a True Champion in my eyes. That said, I'll play devils advocate here. I have not been fortunate enough to ever see a World round in person, but have watched a few on tapes and DVDs (so my impressions and experienced are VERY limited). Seems to me that from what I've seen...granted never seen a Spanish round...that the "benefit of the doubt" is usually in Lampkin's favour (and usually is in the case of a reining Champion). 2002 Deluth was a classic example. Dougie rarely received a stop penalty and even got a "1" for a clear "5". Others, Raga included, but in particular Fugi seemed to get dinged anytime there was even the slightest doubt. This is in no way a slight to the Deluth officials, or any others for that matter. Just one of the few things I don't like about trials...subjectivity ...and another reason I support the "stop and hop" style rules, as it helps eliminate some of the "interpretation" out of scoring. Whenever there is "personal judgement" involved, there will be bias...it's simply Human Nature. OK...Flame on...I've put on my Nomex undies

I've actually read somewhere about "leaky floats" on DelOrtos. Think it was John Studleys tech stuff at GasGas USA. Either way, as Dabster indicated, you'll simply need to replace them. I'd think a pretty cheap part.

Interesting....I was not aware of that Bigfoot. I've never seen a shock done like that. What year is your bike? (for future referance) That said, perhaps the best route is a spring compressor and remove the spring completely so that you can get at this "sleeve" affair and free up the collars. If you don't have one, I'm sure you can find someone to borrow one from, if not their not a terribly expensive tool (as long as you buy a cheap one, not SnapOn or the like).

Didn't realise that HongKong and France had become Spanish colonies Geography never was my strong suit My money is still on Lampkin outdoors

Bigfoot, is the shock on the bike? Or on the bench? If it's off the bike you should be able to hold it by the clevis (where the top mount bolt goes through) and turn the adjuster ring. I commonly loosen the locking ring, then simply turn the spring itself, as the adjusting ring commonly stick to the spring anyways, and it's easy to grip the spring with your hands.

Also check that your adjuster at the Master cylinder is backed off fully.

I've not tried the Keihen myself, so have been interested in reading the comments. I thought, and please correct me if I am wrong, that the Keihen is actually a 28mm carb, as opposed to the stock 26mm? If this is true, it would account for the gains in top end power for sure, as this is commonly the result of fitting a larger bore carb. The downside is they don't meter as well at low rpms and generally cause a drop is low end power. Guess that is the "smoother" bottom end that jaysee is referring to. As I said, I've not actually tried it so this is purely speculation, but it would seem that it makes sense for Pro riders or guys that use alot of top end power, but not likely for the "plonkers" (like myself)

Nope.

..at least not without some grinding/filing Many years ago you used to be able to get "offset" keys for just the purpose Shootis is referring to. Suppose you could file one, if you really were concerned about it.

Don't know what people are referring to as padding, but there's not much, if any in any MX/Enduro pants I've ever worn. The biggest differences between them and trials pants is the MX ones are baggier fit and made with much heavier and coarser fabric. Very tough, but not as soft against your skin (even with those rediculous liners some manufacturers insist on putting it). I own and wear both types and personally find the trials pants to be exceptionally comfy although not as durable.

The '04s apparently have the programmable ignition, but haven't seen one up close to confirm this (it was also reported on earlier models, but never actually appeared). There is some room to slot the pickup mount holes, but not alot. Some retard does help though. Lowering compression usually is most noticable at the bottom and may make it seem worse. I've not played with different reeds, but they can change power characteristics to some degree. You say the jetting is good, but perhaps try fattening up the main. This will often take the "snap" out of the top without effecting much below 1/3 throttle. Other than that, custom porting or lots of clutch control are the last options that I can think of

Sorry Nick, not familiar with Putoline product. Is it petroleum based? ...or alcohol (like NoToil and I think the new Bio-Twin Air). If it is petrol based, then a good washing in kerosine will take it off. Then wash filter again afterwards in nice warm soapy water (dish soap). If it's the bio-stuff, then you'll likely need the specific cleaner to do the job well. Too much oil on the filter will make the bike run rich.

That's rather odd Wayne, as the taper generally ends just at the bend to the control surface....at least on any of the ones I've used (Hebo, ProTaper, Renthal, Tag). The control surface should be the same diameter all the way along. Perhaps the Domino ones are slightly different.

Hebo makes a "taper" bar and clamps. The clamps shown seem to be the "special racing edition" units listed on the GasGas website (under "racing" and "trials"). In fact both the bars and clamps are shown there. Click Here

Thanks for the tip Martin!

Nick, the easiest way to push the bearing out and the new one back in is to use your vise with two sockets. Choose one socket that is large enough ID for the bearing to drop into and the second with an OD just slightly smaller than the bearing race. Put the large socket one side of the link, the smaller one on the other (against the race) and use your vise like a press, clamping the whole assembly. As you wind the vise closed, the smaller socket will push the bearing race right out into the large one. I also suggest you use the same method to push the new ones in.

Astro has the best suggestion. Also look for signs of how the bike was cared for. Ask general questions like "how often do you have to change the oil on these things?" and "when were the suspension, steering head and swingarm bearings last cleaned and lubed?" Some early '02 Pros did have clutch and shift drum issues, although they were easily fixed with updated parts. Be sure to ask if any updates had been done and what they were (check for receipts if necessary). Still, Astrolounger's method is absolute best, particularly with the mounts your referring to, as they are quite different to actually ride.

That's my impression too Alan, The combination of ultra slow speeds, ultra low tire pressures and rough, loose terrain make much less significant. In fact, even on MX bikes, 1/8" out of true is barely noticable to mere mortals...damn the tires aren't even that true most times Now, on a road bike, with a solid surface, higher speeds and direct connection to the road surface (not the looseness of dirt), the difference is very noticable.

Don't know the "right" answer, but my personal opinion is you can get away with alot. I'd be happy with under 10mm side to side and 5mm up and down. That's a big tolerance, but I've ridden ones worse and barely noticed.