betarev3

MX mayhem

Try a search - this has been covered extensively in the past

Hi - carb setup here

I discovered this to my horror when I removed the gearbox casing to replace a leaking gasket (the original gaskets are rubbish). There was some bad corrosion holes in the casing, but no penetration to the gearbox side in my case. I decided to have a go at repairing it, and just used some 'plastic padding' plastic metal for auto store. I removed the casing, cleaned it all up and filled the holes and built up around the area with the plastic metal until I had a smooth coating over the whole of the exposed area behind the impellor. Left it to cure and them painted with heat resistant paint for brake caliper to seal from further attack. This repair looks as good as new after several months of use, so would recommend to try this before purchasing new casing, as they are expensive - especially if you fit new seals and bearings.... I would recommend all Rev 3 owners to remove the water pump casing and inspect this area before it fails completely.

Hi - are you sure it is water contamination? My gearbox oil goes 'white' after starting the engine, but this is due to agitation of the oil and not water contamination..... If it is water, then inspect the water pump shaft for any signs of scoring on the point where the seal runs, and if there is, it is sometimes possible to fit the seal in the housing a little further out (i.e. don't knock it in so far) to allow the sealing face to run on a different part of the shaft. Good luck

I like the look, but the rad cap and electrics box both look very vulnerable to damage. Can't figure out why that rad cap connector pipe is sooooo long also, the fuel tank is small at 2.6L. and lack of separate air box cover seems a backward step. I still can't decide whether to order one or not - think I'll wait for some feedback from early owners first. Might well be quite a few mods for next year after the new design has been trialled in anger by all the new owners....

My local dealer has a 125 and a 250 on order - they were due end October, but apparently delayed further 2-3 weeks now

There is an 06 manual here http://metalmarkers.org/sitebuildercontent...rfiles/rev3.pdf May cover most things..... Parts list here http://www.betatrialuk.com/content/view/35/69/

I think you need to try a new CDI unit - I don't think the reg will be causing an ignition problem. Surely your dealer will let you try a CDI unit to see if this is at fault. Hoever, check all your earth connections just to be sure.

Water pump section of clutch casings can corrode badly. I don't know why exactly, but I found mine was quite badly affected a few weeks ago. I managed to effect a repair with 'plastic metal' and this is holding up OK for now, but I would advise all Rev 3 owners to remove the water pump cover and inspect for damage. If the corrosion eats right through, the oil will be contaminated and a new casing is around

I think you are saying the leak is from the seal itself? If so, you may be able to get an oil additive that will soften the seal and stop the leak for a while - try Frost automotive.... http://www.frost.co.uk/

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned my method, which works a treat and is pretty cost effective. 1. soak chain in detergent cleaner whilst you clean the bike - I use 'section one' which is very good 2. Wash off with hose as per rest of bike 3. remove chain and dry with a rag or leave for a while to dry naturally 4. Wipe any crud off sprockets with petrol wetted rag - comes off easy! 5. Wash chain in petrol - use a small brush if neccessary to remove build-up. 6. Dry with rag and then leave for a short time until petrol is all evaporated. 7. soak for a short while in a container of used gearbox oil - agitate to distribute oil to internal pins. 8. Remove and hang to drip dry - put oil container underneath to recycle excess. 9. Refit and spin the wheel a bit to distribute lubricant CAUTION - wear protective gloves to protect your hands from oil and petrol - oh and don't smoke while doing the job!!! Sounds long winded, but only takes 15 or so mins to complete really You will be amazed how much crap will be in the petrol after cleaning, even if the chain looked good before - this fine crap is abrasive and if not flushed out will be wearing down your chain like grinding paste. The petrol can be recycled loads of times, and you only need a little anyway. The gearbox oil is free, and thick enough to protect for a full days riding, but thin enough to prevent much dirt pick-up. No need for expensive spray lubes that are all crap IMHO This method works very effectively and my chain is showing no signs of wear after many months of regular use. Oh, and not for 'O' ring chains - no ideas there....

Probably the voltage regulator. Get a multimeter, connect to fan wires and check voltage - or take to dealer and get him to check.

They are very grippy but also very soft, so if you don't mind replacing quite often, they are recommended

I'm no expert, but here goes.... You do not say whether fan is coming on when you think engine is overheating, so need to check this first. Also, remove plastic rad cover and wash out rad fins to ensure no blockages. Check air filter is clean, remove carb and give it a thorough clean out, checking float level at same time. I would also repack silencer, as it only costs a few quid, and if it has not been done since 2000, then it is definitely overdue. I have seen a couple of two strokes revving out for no apparent reason, and no one has fully explained this to me, but at the end of the day you need fuel, air and an ignition source to get combustion, so if you check these systems are working correctly then you will logically eliminate the problem. Therefore, lastly, I would remove the cylinder head and check for carbon deposit build up on piston crown - maybe excessive build up could lead to spurious detonation when engine gets to a critical temperature. Hope this helps.