ridgrunr

I'm not understanding why they would bother to make and sell a spark arrestor that did not use USFS screen material. I mean, what's the point if you're still not legal? Looks like the screen is removed pretty easily. I guess a guy could get something like this, cut it to the size needed and put a USFS approved screen in it. Shouldn't have to go through this for $79 bucks though! https://www.procircuit.com/spark-arrestor-screen-07.html

Man I hate it when I pay good money for something and it doesn't work decent. So I decided to modify my Spanish Fly Beta spark arrestor so I can easily remove and install it without having to take off the Plastic silencer end cap and messing up the packing all the time. You can click here to see what I came up with. http://wasatchtrialsassociation.webs.com/apps/blog/

Thanks mcman56! Man I wish I'd posted this BEFORE I spent $79 on the Spanish Fly. Looks like I'll be doing some modification to see if i can make it work decent. If not...nothing runs like a Deere!

Why do you assume that? Is it because my profile says Utah,USA or because you don't need them where you ride?

I just picked up a Spanish Fly spark arrestor for my 300 Evo. Pretty neat looking item, but it looks like something one installs and then leaves in there as it is not super easy or quick to install. My concern is that the screen type arrestors will gum up pretty much each ride, so it'll need to be cleaned regularly. I used carb cleaners to clean past external type screen spark arrestors, but this one I'll have to spray while installed which I imagine isn't great for the silencer packing. Anyone else using the Spanish Fly? What are you doing? Have you noticed any difference in the power?

Hi all. Just bought an almost new 2015 Evo 300. On my previous bikes (Scorpa and GG) I raised the forks in the clamps to enhance steering as they had lots of fork rake. I was told by another 300 owner that Betas have the steepest fork rakes of most bikes and that I should lower the forks in the clamps as much as possible which will enhance stability. What do you Evo owners recommend?

Never had a single issue with my 08 SY250 clutch. I use Maxima Lite 75wt in it. If you think it's dragging, I'd take it apart, LIGHTLY sand the glaze off the fibre plates and sand the metal plates with 80 grit sand paper to rough them up. Put it back together with the Maxima in the tranny and then try it.

I know exactly how you feel. I used to feel like that a lot, but one thing I've learned in the forty years I've been doing this, is that Trials is unlike almost any other sport. Yes there are other competitors in the class, but the only one you are really competing against is yourself. Case in point. Rode the middle class, Intermediate in a meet last Saturday. I came in 7th out of 8 with a 39. Winner had a 7. Point is, the first loop I had two 5's and lots of points. But by the third loop I was cleaning many of those sections that had kicked my butt the first loop. Yeah, I came in second to last. But I had a great day and improved every loop. At 62, it just doesn't get much better. There's always going to be a Tony Bou in every class. Compete against yourself. You'll have a lot more fun when you stop worrying about what anyone else does or doesn't do.

The clutch on my 2002 315R dragged bad too. Always has since I got it four years ago. Oil change helped, but not a lot. ATF seems to work the best. Then I took the clutch apart, sanded the fibre plates lightly to take off the sheen, and sanded the heck out of the metal plates with 80 grit sand paper to really roughen them up. Put in new ATF (Valvoline in the red bottle) and presto! Clutch is smooth as butter, no drag or squeal at all and it hooks up like it never has!

Terrific write up! I'll be looking forward to a winter project to spruce up my 2002 315R!

Go down to your local AutoZone and get a radiator hose that has the same bend as your pipe. Split it up the back, slip it on and secure it with a couple loops of safety wire and you're good to go. I've done this on all my bikes. It will get warm, but you can touch it and it will not melt our pants. $12 bucks.

Might have a slow throttle tube. You can put a fast tube on there that will quicken it up some. I think the slow one is black and the fast one is white.

You can get the carb out if you need to at a meet, without doing these steps, but here's the easiest way get the carb out and in if you're working in a garage. 1. Put the bike on a stand so the rear wheel is off the ground. 2. Remove the rear fender. 3. Turn off the gas. Disconnect the fuel hose at the pet cock. Remove the fuel tank (two screws in the front). Leave the fuel hose connected to the carb. 4. Remove the aluminum sub frame. You'll need to disconnect the coil from the aluminum sub frame. Watch how it's connected in the rubber holder so you can get it back that way. Be careful with the airfilter spring connectors as it's easy to break them. 5. Put a block under the rear wheel to support it cause you're going to remove the top shock bolt and don't want the wheel to hang on the brake hose. 6. Remove the air box. Disconnect the rubber boot at the air box and leave it connected to the carb. Makes it easier to put back together. 7. Unbolt the top shock bolt and pivot the shock back (REMEMBER to put a support block under the rear wheel so it's not pulling on the rear brake hose!!!) 8. Unscrew the carb throttle top and work it out. A flathead screw driver tapped on lightly with a hammer will loosen it. Careful not to bend the needle jet. 9. Loosen the hose clamp on the front of the carb on the rubber reed block. 10. Now you can work the carb loose. It should still have the fuel hose and rubber airbox hose connected to it. 11. Loosen the four screws on the bottom of the carb and separate the float bowl from the carb. Careful with the gasket. 12. There's two jets in there, the main jet and the pilot jet. main jet removed with a 6mm (?) wrench. Pilot is recessed in a tube and can be removed with a small flathead screw driver. Unless you absolutely need to, don't mess with taking the needle out of the carb throttle top. The TK's have a weird needle/ cable holder arrangement. Just clean it good with carb cleaner. 13. After you've got the jets and float out, clean it good with arrisol carb cleaner and blow out all of the orrifices with with compressed air. Make sure the holes in the jets are clear and not simply scaled over with varnish from the gas. Good reason to not use gas with alcohol in it. 14. Put it back together in reverse order. There is a vent overflow nipple the bottom of the carb. It causes a lot of muck in the space under the exhaust. If you run a small rubber tube from that nipple down behind and under the engine, it will keep the carb from venting onto the top of the engine and will keep things a lot cleaner. Clean the air filter while you've got it apart. Hot water and dish soap works great. Let it dry and oil it up lightly with motoroil. Squeeze out the excess. 15. It's a good idea to put on one of those small inline fuel filters while you've got the thing apart. Keeping crap out of the carb will help ensure you don't have to get back in there very often. I hope I've remembered everything. If not, you should be able to figure it out. Good luck.

I own both. A 2008 SY250R and a 2002 315R. Both have great engines, Scorpa Yamaha and Montesa Honda. Both are great bikes, but are different. The Montesa has the smoothest engine at low rpms, The Scorpa hits harder. It think the Montesa is easier to do full lock turns on than the Scorpa, Both handle great, but have different feel as the Scorpa has a linkless rear suspension and the Montesa is linked. The suspension on the Scopra (Marazzoci Aluminum front and Sachs rear) has literally saved my butt more than once, as it just seams to soak up the rough stuff and is much like my 94 Fantic KRoo was, you just point it at something and it will go over it. The Montesa has Showa (iridium) front and rear. I think the Showa suspension is the best ever put on a Trials bike. Smooth like butter. I do think the Montesa is easier to work on, especially carb work, but once you figure out the sequence for doing it, the Scorpa is no big deal either. Both have great plastic. Scorpa steel frame, Mmontesa auminum. Both have he same control components. Both of my bikes have original plastic, and although they are scratched up some both rear fenders have bent almost double and neither broke, but I removed the rear mount screws and replaced them with Zip ties that will break before the rear fender does, The Montesa is the easier starter, two kicks cold, one warm. The Scorpa is three kicks cold, one warm. The Scorpa uses that funky TK carb which can be a little hard to find jets for. Both have been bullet proof. My son prefers the Montesa. He rides Advanced and can hop the thing (front and rear) all over. I ride Intermediate and prefer the Scorpa, but I'm 61. We've ridden them at a monthly Trials event for almost the entire time we've had them and both have been across the Five Miles of Hell half a dozen times. The Montesa has a little bigger fuel tank, as in in capacity, and will go a little farther on a tank of gas. The Scorpa has the better clutch. No drag at all. I run Maxima lite 75 wt oil in it. The Montesa has a little more drag, sort of like a Beta. I run Valvoline ATF in the red bottle in it and it has less drag than it did with the Maxima. The Montesa clutch will squeal a little once in awhile when you are really playing it hard at low RPMS trying to get max power. It's something they all do. The Montesa is a little more old school in design, with the forks raked out slightly more than the Scorpa, but my son says it makes it more stable in the turns. The Scorpa is a little steeper. Is one better than the other, I guess it depends who you talk to, but both have been great bikes. Don't know if this helps or not. I don't think you can go wrong with either.

Love the paint schemes. Great idea booting the rear shock!

Thanks s.e. lucas. That's a great resource. Looks like one for a Scorpa would be about $59 bucks. I'll remember the Tryals Shop next time. The hose I ordered from Trials and Tribulations took ten days from England to Utah. Not too bad. I was just glad they had one. Keep the parts sources and ideas coming. I love my "old" bikes (08 Scorpa SY250R and 02 Monesa 315R and 1985 Honda V65 Sabre) . This idea of planned obsolescence really gets to me.

Be careful guys if you pull the rear shock and let the swing arm drop down. There is not an awful lot of slack available in the rear hydraulic brake line, and it will pull out of the banjo fitting on the top of the rear brake master cylinder. I learned the hard way. What was worse is that the U.S. Scorpa importer tells my parts dealer says he doesn't stock that part. What's with that? It's like the same line they used on almost ten years of the SY/SR models. Went on line and found http://trialstribulations.net/and found one in their catalog. Got it ordered. Now just have to see how long it takes to get from England to the U.S.!

With some help from lineaway, I finally got the SY250R jetting sorted out. Stock jetting was 40 pilot, 140 main and the needle on the meddle clip. Am now running a 42.5 pilot, 135 main and needle clip is set on the second from the top slot. Air screw is out 1.5 turns. Bike starts second kick, and the air screw. Make sure you use TK (Teikei) jets. It makes a difference. The Delorto jets fit in there, bu they seem to be calibrated different.

utahpete, can't seem to get the link to work or find TK jets on the RM site.

Lineaway, you are correct sir! I should have gotten a 42 pilot jet for the 135 main. Bike ran petty good today, but was hard to start. Had to screw out the air screw 2.5 turns to get it to run semi decent, then it would sometimes backfire when I was kicking it to start. In the sections though, when Ii whacked it for a wall, the 135 main ran really strong. So a 42.5 pilot jet is on the way. Thanks for the words of wisdom!

Guess I missed that post. Have to go back and check it. Should try the 42 I guess, but I was having a heck of a time getting anything. That's why I ended up with the Dellorto. Least now I know where to get them. The 40 seems to be pretty good, but I'm assuming the 42 would be just a tad richer? I've got a Trials meet this Saturday. I'll see how it feels in the sections. Thanks for the help.

Oh, and I tried a 35 slow (pilot) jet. Stumbled right off the idle when smacking the throttle. Ran a lot crisper with the 40 piot.

Lineaway, you're right, I got them backwards for the post. Thanks for the heads up! I wondered about Yamaha so I tried a local bike shop. He said they don't deal much with jetting. They could only look up the jet if I could tell them what type of "Yamaha" I was riding so they could look it up in the fisch. I told them I had a Yamaha Trials bike. They said Yamaha hasn't built Trials bikes since the '80's. Imagine the looks on their faces when I showed them my Scorpa in the back of my truck with that Yamaha embossed on the engine case!

For the record, dellorto jets don't work well in a Scorpa TK carb. They fit, but are different. Wanted to jet down for 5,000 ft. Had a hard time finding TK jets. Stock main is a 140. Got ahold of a 132.5 that was supposed to be a dellorto jet. It fit, but was round instead of hex. Ran it for awhile, and watched the spark plug get blacker and blacker, then it started backfiring when I was starting it, so I pulled the carb (again) and did some testing on jet orrifices. That 132.5 has a bigger offifice than the stock 140 TK main. Don't know how they measure them, but it was way too rich. I wanted to find some TK jets, but the usual sources kept pointing me at dellorto jets. Finally found a TK jet source and ordered some jets to play with. 135 main jet and a 40 slow jet seem to be the ticket for my '08 SY250R at 5,300 ft. Here's the TK jet source; http://www.jetsrus.com/a_jets_by_carburetor_type/a_jet_kits_teikei_selection.html

My 08 SY250 takes DOT 4 in brake and clutch.