eiaprilia

Yes clean and very lightly oil the wee filter, I do mine everytime I do the main filter Yes i would change the coolant purely if anything to make sure the mix is right and lets face it a flush through wont do any harm will it? Apico guage gets my vote too, any trails shop should stock low pressure guages though Spokes are easy done with the wheel in, take care though there are two different lengths of spokes, sometimes you need to remove the spoke next to the broken one first so you can get the broken one out. You didnt mention changing the gear oil either, i would do that also as well as stripping and cleaning the carb. The owners manual is pretty comprehensive and should give instruction on all these jobs except maybe the spoke changing

Why do you need to replace the whole leg? surely just replace the broken part?

Personally I'd go for plain alloy ones or black, I'm not into shiny bling bling stuff I'd be interested in buying them as well my plastic ones are a wee bit worse for wear.

Thanks for the replies folks I'll check out the websites properly this evening

Hi Peeps I've been twatting about on my Montesa for a wee while now and figure its about time I joined a club and did a few trials. Im located in Central Scotland, any info about who to contact, clubs to join and any other stuff you think I should know would be greatly appreciated. Ian

While were on the subject of handlebars, I bent mine this weekend I was toying with replacing them with a set of fat bars but Renthal only seem to make the trials bar in a 4.5" rise? Me being quite a lanky bugger this aint enough, is there another fatbar crosser alternative I could use? 5.5" rise would be enough as i'm gonna have to machine a new set of clamps so i can add a bit of height with them too. Sorry for highjacking the thread peeps

WOOHOO! Cheers for that Dad

thanks peeps

Hi guys, I just bought a pretty sorry looking ty, i've found tytrials.co.uk on the net for spare parts are there any other peeps in the country who can supply me with bits? I need every bearing and bush for the rear suspension and swingarm, also looking for a manual, is there one available in pdf format?

I think they are an m6 bolt are they not? If so 10 n/m. They dont need to be tight as the oil is not under pressure, as long as the o ring is in good condition it wont leak. Both me and my mates 315's have rattly clutches, we both use elf oil.

i'd say about 70hrs use so far, i use the elf reccomended oil

I've not long replaced the clutch in my bike, I bought the surflex plates from BVM, the fibres and steels added up to around

my mates got those on his 03 and he hasn't snapped them yet! he's snapped everything else mind you!

just make sure its properly maintained, your suspension is in good order and set up to suit your weight, ride and enjoy

thanks dude think i'll be going for the cheaper option at the mo, ive got a rotax motor to rebuild as well so the money would be better spent on that

Interesting thanks for the speedy reply the barrels still nice and shiny, looking at it again there are a few dark lines down it only one or two, i put the top ring in it and measured the wear all the way down, its totally even at 14 thou ring gap. How much did the whole barrel swap and piston replacement cost you if you dont mind me asking? I could just chuck in a new small end bearing and a set of rings to get me by, just back from biking holiday in Norway and bought new leathers etc so moneys a wee bit tight at the mo. Cheers again Ian

Hi peeps I stripped the engine of my cota last night as she had a very slight rattle, the small end has a tiny bit of play so i've decided to change piston & rings etc while the engines open. I phoned BVM today but they didnt recognise the code on the piston head? They said it should have an A,B or C on it, mine has 7w ? I tried phoning Sandifords but they were closed. Can anybody shed any light on this one for me? The code on the barrel is 7 x B 03 Thanks in advance

it took me and my dad to get mine on, it was a right royal pain in the ass!! bolted it on at the rear then used a log to wedge under the front of the plate, my dad used his weight to bend the plate while i got the bolts in. good luck dude

that is a possibility dude, i hadnt thought of that, i do have the lever span right out coz of my spider like tenticals! gonna look into that one tomorrow too

Hey peeps i'm hoping someone can help coz i'm scratching my head here Last couple of times out my clutch has started to drag real bad the lever goes slack and i go pinging off into the distance, if i ride the bike up through the gears, pop a few wheelies or summat it disappears again, it only does it occasionaly but its driving me mental! I fitted a new master cylinder and hose about a month ago, i've had the plates out and checked them for warping, the baskets showing no wear and i'm using the same oil i always have I've ordered a repair kit for the slave cylinder today see if that makes any difference, short of ordering new plates i dont know what else to do? Has anyone else suffered a similar problem? replies on a postcard to the usual address

i just got a new seal kit today from BVM and it only costs

Thanks Lee i'll try that today

Howdy My pals rebuilding his fantic, it was running before the strip down, now the bikes been rebuilt there's no spark, the frame was powder coated so it could be a bad earth, any other tips or things i should look for? does anybody know the readings i should be getting for the stator, pulse generator and coils? any replies welcome, im gonna have a look at the bike tomorrow all being well

I'm in Scotland dude, the shock is still in one peice but there is no damping and will not return on the spring once compressed, i had to wind the preload right up so the backend didn't just collapse

Howdy peeps the shock on my 98 cota is shot! Can anyone point me in the right direction to either get a new one or mine repaired? An idea of how much would be good too. many thanks in advance Ian