I seem to remember someone fitting an OKO carb to an RL250 , but cant remember if it was on here or another forum.
As it was an RL250 not a beamish , it may have been someone in the USA or Aus , NZ etc. ?
A job for Google perhaps ?
Failing that you could try your Cota carb on the Beamish as it is and see if it works okay, { they are both 250cc piston port 2 strokes , so similar engines } - if okay then use the same jetting / settings as a starting point and fine tune later
Sorry I have no idea what an original unused gasket would measure up to, but I do have a cheap looking aftermarket MAR gasket ( not Vintco) here in blue card that measures .020 inch
Your .030 inch gasket will crush down a small amount when assembled & all screws torqued up,
but the only way to see how much would be to - 1.assemble - 2. torque up screws 3. - dismantle - 4. measure gasket
( then buy another Vintco gasket to use if you are happy with measurements )
If you say the old gasket AVERAGES -.025 inch , then I wouldn't think you are far off
Are the tolerances that fine on an Ossa ?
I need to rebuild my own MAR engine soon, and I think I would rather have too much clearance rather than too little - better loose than something binding - I will be looking for a thicker gasket than the one I have
Hello, I have an Ossa MAR and it has always leaked a little from the gear lever shaft - probably because it doesn't have a proper oil seal - I think it has something like a felt washer on the inside and an O ring on the shaft
I have renewed these and it still drips now and then
There should not be a leak between crankcase halves as this has a gasket , and if your engine has recently been rebuilt with a fresh gasket then it should be oil tight - you also don't want this gasket to leak gearbox oil internally into the crankcase area, or air to leak from the crankcase area - probably the most important gasket on the engine & the hardest to change
The only other place I have had a leak is from the gearbox sprocket oil seal { a new seal fixed this }- this could possibly run down underneath the engine
If the leak really is between the crankcase halves , and you have paid to have the engine rebuilt - then I think you should have a chat with whoever did it , to confirm what work was done
If you had taken the trouble to read the post before answering you would have seen that the person asking the question resides in France where the rules may differ from those your club may implement.
TRAF also said the original carb had cracked and that he had the Mikuni about and presumably like the rest of us wants to ride his bike again.
There has been precious few trials about for more than one year now yet as soon as there is the promise of at least a few to come you are whingeing.
I notice that you ride an Ariel in Pre 65 events which no doubt is fitted with an AMAL Concentric carburettor these were not introduced until 1967. Amal (carburettor) - Wikipedia
It always makes me laugh how Pre65 people can rewrite history for Amal concentric carbs ,
but wouldn't want to allow a genuine 1964 Mikuni carb to be used if you had one
Hello, in the past I have had a clutch basket welded to repair the same problem you have , BUT like any repair of this type success will depend on the skill of the welder & the material being welded , you have nothing to lose trying.
I have also owned a bike for many months with no Clutch issues , and only found the clutch basket broken after removing the clutch cover to change the kickstart oil seal.
There was one finger missing, but the clutch was working fine, and I expect the previous owner just took the cover off , removed the broken piece to eliminate the rattle it would have made and reassembled everything hoping it would work okay.
Not recommending you do this , but if its the only thing stopping you riding the bike, maybe you could try this and carry on looking for a basket in the mean time
You could try - cmsnl.com for a new part , {if they have one they are rarely cheap} or just use their website to get a part number to google
Good points about the problems you may have with modern fuel in a Fibreglass tank { or a plastic one }, using an alloy tank has to be preferable to avoid any problems
going back to the original question about fibreglass tanks being banned {for road use} - I think the law was that a tank had to be metal , so this obviously excluded fibreglass & plastic of any kind, but I don't think this law lasted long as I know some BSA road bikes had fibreglass tanks in the late 1960s , and There are some 1980s road bikes with plastic tanks , it must have been a short lived 1970s law that got removed
I am reasonably sure you are okay these days with a Fibre glass tank being used on the road
As far as i can recall , there was a law requiring metal petrol tanks in the 1970s / 1980s ?
But that law has been removed a long time ago
I could be wrong , and if I am then someone will surely correct me - but there are plenty of modern cars & modern Enduro / Trials bikes that are road legal , with plastic tanks
If they are the same as on my Ossa MAR, then they are 3.5mm.
On my bike the stainless spokes on both wheels were perfect , but the Alloy nipples were corroded and nobody seems to sell nipples in the size required
I was reluctant to buy 2 x sets of stainless spokes { at £80 a wheel }
I managed to find somewhere that sold nickel plated brass nipples of the right dimensions at a reasonable price , with just a pilot hole.
then I got a 3.5mm thread tap and threaded all 72 nipples { yes this was tedious , but the money saved payed for some other parts }
I cant remember where I got the nipples , it may have even been a cycle place ?
So if Scotland becomes independent and hooks up with the EU again, bang goes the Scottish Six Day Trial for most English, Welsh and Northern Irish riders, too much paperwork, so will it will be mostly the French, Spaniards etc instead?
IF the process of - having a referendum - then negotiating a leaving UK deal - then negotiating a joining EU deal , is as slow and long winded as Brexit was , then don't worry , we can all ride the SSDT for many more years
They look like they are just too short, and forcing them to fit wont be a good idea - could break when fitting, or worse still could break later when running
I would try and get some different ones personally
If you think ethanol could be a problem , there are options you can take to reduce the chance of problems
Fill your tank on the day that you are using the bike, then drain tank & carb after you finish riding { ethanol damage is usually a slow process, not instant }
As already mentioned - Use ethanol free fuel - not always easy to find + sometimes expensive
Remove the ethanol from your fuel - I have never done this , but there were a couple of places selling kits to do this -
Ethanil.co.uk, I think was one company that sold a kit for this purpose . { i have no idea how successful this is , but the kit wasnt that expensive }
Add in the likelihood of a massive financial crisis and Brexit I can't see us doing much but bumbling along with easy unobserved fun Tr
I cant see Brexit having any effect on any Trials anywhere in the UK
I can see Covid effecting trials during 2021 , but that will depend on if it gets worse or better
As for a massive financial crisis , its possible , but you wouldn't think so if you saw all my Neighbours - most seem to being having a house extension built or new kitchen / bathroom { never seen so many skips in the road }
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Black engine 250 carb change
in Suzuki/Beamish
Posted
I seem to remember someone fitting an OKO carb to an RL250 , but cant remember if it was on here or another forum.
As it was an RL250 not a beamish , it may have been someone in the USA or Aus , NZ etc. ?
A job for Google perhaps ?
Failing that you could try your Cota carb on the Beamish as it is and see if it works okay, { they are both 250cc piston port 2 strokes , so similar engines } - if okay then use the same jetting / settings as a starting point and fine tune later