This is a huge issue with anything that takes fuel and has a plastic/neoprene tank, as it's been stated above Ducati have had problems, the older Sherco's had big issues, there's even people with boats having the same problems. What I tend to do with my vehicles with a plastic tank is to drain the tank if I don't plan on using it for a while so there's no fuel to absorb into the plastic and hopefully it's slow down the process. You can also clean the tanks out with hot water and washing powder every now and again which does help a little bit.
I've heard of some people trying various things to try and seal the tanks to stop the ethanol getting into the plastic but as the tanks are smooth inside all the sealers don't stick and end up peeling away.
The last few years ethanol had been added to the fuel at 5% and some brands are using 10% ethanol so the problem is getting worse, If you type in "ethanol content uk fuel" you'll see how big the issue is within the Uk.
Found this on a classic car post which was dated a few years ago but it shows how more brands are adding ethanol to their fuel.
BP Ethanol is added at 5% to unleaded petrol at all sites across the UK. BP Ultimate (super unleaded petrol) does not have Ethanol added, except in the South West of England.
Esso Ethanol is added at 5% to unleaded petrol at most sites in the UK. Esso Super Unleaded petrol does not contain Ethanol, except in the South West of England (Devon and Cornwall)
Shell Shell has repeatedly refused to answer the question. It is therefore an assumption only, that all Shell petrol should be considered to contain 5% Ethanol.
Texaco Ethanol is added at 5% to unleaded petrol. Texaco Super Unleaded petrol does not contain Ethanol.
Total Ethanol is not added to any Total fuel (including standard unleaded petrol). Except in the North West and South East of England.
I had read somewhere that the Tesco Super Unleaded was the petrol with the highest Ethanol content as they had used Ethanol to increase the Octane Rating, if true then sounds best to avoid using this.
Also has anyone tried the Ethanol Removal Kit sold by Ethanil . co.uk ? , there has been an article in Classic Bike magazine about using this kit and it seems a simple way to remove the Ethanol, this could be a good alternative to trying to find Ethanol free fuel
The tickler actually put fuel in the cylinder. Worked much better for starting purposes. And yes I had a Mar when new.
You may well have had a MAR when new { I don't see what difference that makes } , but I know from my own experience with my own MAR that starting was terrible with the Amal , but has been much improved with Mikuni fitted the last 5 years.
I never found that tickler thing to be good for anything, apart from soaking the spark plug {and engine cases}.
anyway some people love Amal carbs & have no problems with them, you must be one of those people and I am glad it worked ok for you.
I don't know if this is useful but there is a scheme with the DVLA for voluntarily registering off-road vehicles like Diggers & other plant, Moto cross & Trials bikes etc.
I think you get some kind of V5 logbook & details of bike are put on DVLA computer so can be checked by Police, Finance companies, HPI etc.
I did make enquiries about this a while ago and this "off-road logbook" is simpler to apply for and cheaper than getting a logbook for road use,
it could be handy to have when taking a trials bike abroad, if you are stopped by Police/Customs and they want to see some proof of ownership.
for more details see - .www.gov.uk , leaflet INF85
the main advantage of a mikuni is that its made out of decent metal {unlike Amal} and wont wear out quickly.
my only experience of Amal v Mikuni is with my own Ossa , this had an amal fitted - it was a pig to start and hard to get to run nicely, despite being reconditioned by an amal specialist {with new chrome slide,float, jets etc. }
after lots of messing about I gave up with the Amal and fitted a VM26 Mikuni, it now starts easily and runs smoothly all through the rev range. this was 5 years ago and I havent had to touch the carb in that time.
I am sure there are people who love Amal carbs and have no problems with them but from my own experience I would not have one fitted to a bike that I own.
Hello again , if anyone was interested I have taken off the clutch cover , looked at the clutch plates, springs etc.
could not see any damage or anything obvious so re-assembled everything and adjusted the cable and the noise has gone !
I have no idea what was wrong but I am relieved anyway as it was making a "£100 minimum" sort of noise , but now the clutch is back to its old self {you pull the clutch lever in and 10 minutes later the clutch disengages}
Hello everyone, after 3-4 years of being reliable my 250 MAR yesterday developed a new noise.
what happens is when the clutch lever is pulled in with the engine running there is a sort of knocking/graunching noise all the time, which disappears again when the clutch is released.
will strip down next weekend to have a look for anything obvious broken/damaged , but would welcome any ideas on what is causing the noise .
Hello , I have a Beamish 250 {silver engine, aprox. 1976} .The Front forks are too soft , {a lot of sag & bottom out easy}. I am 82kg so may be bit heavier than average but i still dont think they are correct
The fork springs are full length with no spacer under the cap , I have seen a parts book for a RL250 which shows a shorter spring with a spacer about 100-125mm long at the top under the cap. Does anybody know the correct lengths for the spring and spacer so that i can try and find the correct parts ?
Alternatively could anybody recommend differant springs to use or a supplier to ask ?
hello , had the same bike as you with a similiar problem when the bike was a few months old. fan working but only now and then , turned out to be part of the wiring loom was squashed . i cant remember exactly but something was bolted down onto the loom crushing a wire but not breaking it completely.
poor assembly at the factory i expect. once the wire was repaired it was okay
hello, recently purchased a tatty but rideable beamish suzuki 250, have just removed the rear wheel to replace the rear sprocket and noticed that the cush drive part has been welded to the hub and also one of the wheel spacers is a piece of plastic pipe !
I am sure that the plastic spacer is a bodge but does anybody know if the welded up cush drive is a proper beamish modification or another bodge
{the welding is good quality which is unusual for a lash up}
Also the wrong front wheel is fitted {it has a 7 inch drum which would be great for road racing but is a bit heavy for trials}
does anybody know if the correct wheel is the same as any other suzuki models {i was thinking maybe TS100 ,TS125 perhaps ? }
according to my old 1970's manual , but with modern synthetic oil people mix oil/petrol anything from 50:1 to 100:1, also there could be a better spark plug you could use these days
Gas Gas Fuel Tank Swelling
in Gas Gas
Posted
That's a good point about car tanks being plastic ,
but they are " out of sight, out of mind"
I have a Peugeot 307 diesel (diesel now contains ethanol as well)
This has a plastic tank
Recently had to change the fuel gauge sender unit and the new part was a tight fit in the tank,
so the tank could have changed shape due to ethanol