Why is it when I attend World rounds in Europe i.e recently France and Andorra there is no charge to view?
For the privileged of attending the UK round I have to pay £30.
Don't get me wrong, I can afford £30, just throwing it out there for discussion...........
nothing to do with Brexit, more likely these events have some financial support from local council / tourist board / local business's etc. which probably doesn't happen in the UK
an element of money-grabbing is possible depending on who the organiser is ? but I wouldn't think must club type organisers would do this ?
£30 entrance would probably put off any casual fans or newcomers , but maybe there isn't room at a UK venue for a large crowd, so this would be one way of keeping the audience at a manageable size ?
some bikes have something similar on the clutch instead of the rear wheel,
some bikes don't seem to have any Cush Drive on any part of the drivetrain
I have an OSSA MAR with a Cush Drive on the Crankshaft { I have no idea why they fitted this ! }
I think the general idea is to protect the Chain / Gearbox etc. from shocks , so it cant do any harm and may extend the life of these parts.
the problem is when the Cush Drive wears you can end up with a wobbly sprocket etc. ,
if parts are easy to get & sensibly priced then probably easiest to leave as it is, if not then making it solid wont cause any major problems I would think
when I was looking for a replacement rear brake cable for the worn one on my MAR , all the replacement ones that I saw seemed to be made from thinner cable than the old one - they were the same thickness as the Universal Brake/Clutch cable kits that are available, but just not as thick a cable as the old one.
anyway , I purchased and fitted one of these cables and it worked okay, but did seem to stretch/flex a bit in use.
I wasn't really happy with it and ended up getting a Ford Transit Clutch cable with the threaded rod on one end and modified this to fit.
the Transit cable I used is the same thickness as the old cable that was on the bike, and it does seem better at braking and resisting stretching / flexing now
as has been said - good linings + a good cable + proper adjustment and the standard setup can work well , despite looking like it shouldn't work !
I vaguely remember Dave Thorpe riding a 350cc BSA engined CCM in the 'Scottish' a few decades ago. I think I'm right in saying that it sprang an oil leak or two and gave Dave quite a challenging ride. Can't recall whether he coaxed the bike through to the finish or not. If so, he did well. As somebody else mentioned in this thread, the bike looked and sounded gorgeous.
On 09/09/2017 at 10:23 PM, bigplonker said:
And..., as well as Dave Thorpe, the 350 CCM was ridden in the late '70s with some success by Nick Jefferies, who also rode the four-stroke RTL Honda and various racers in the IOM TT thus making him one of the great all-rounders.
thanks for this info, but I still don't see any victories in a major Trial or Championship mentioned ?
the oil leak is no surprise though !
I will concede they look and sound okay , but not enough to justify a world record price for an old Twinshock ,
if I really wanted a 4 stroke Twinshock I would get a Honda
You might consider carefully polishing the o ring area of the shaft using Scotchbrite or super fine sandpaper.
Then, use tne original o ring to get a size for it, then try a firmer rubber compound such as a 90 duro type.
Then again, if the case has corrosion pits in the o ring groove, it may be best to modify the case for a seal.
that's good advise ,
O rings come in different types of rubber and different thicknesses also,
may only need a firmer compound or a fraction thicker material to make the difference,
if your clutch cover just slips straight over the gearshaft with no resistance/friction then the O ring may be too thin even if its the right diameter ,
problem is the easily available O rings all seem to be soft cheap rubber and not as thick as you may need
If your Oil pump has been left on the engine and is still rotating with the engine running , yet has no oil passing through it , I wouldn't think this does the pump internals any good.
I could be wrong but I would guess this would cause a lot of wear in the pump , I personally wouldn't trust the pump now and would use Premix or get a new pump if they are available
Hello, on my MAR there is a sort of - 'felt' washer on the gear lever shaft as well as the O ring , when both are in good condition the leakage is reduced , but not eliminated.
Have looked at machining the cover to accept an oil seal but haven't got round to it as I think there isn't enough thickness of metal to remove to get to the size of hole needed for an oil seal ( I could be wrong )
I did think of moving the side stand from the left side to the right side to eliminate the oil drip when the bike is parked up !
At the moment I have given up on this annoying drip and just accept it as part of owning a 1970s Spanish bike
With some of the Classic Bike prices you do wonder if the market is being supported by enthusiasts or investor / speculator type people,
or people who are a bit of both . { I hope it is enthusiasts }
I can understand the interest & prices for - Goldstar, Vincent, Brough Superior, Indian, etc. as they were probably the best bikes in the era they were made,
and won championships & medals, world records etc.
But I am baffled by the prices for B.S.A. powered CCMs ,
especially the Trials model , did anybody ever win a major Trials event / championship on one of those ?
I know the Moto Cross models never won a British or World championship { and got caught cheating with oversize engines at least once}
Have to agree that asking prices are one thing , selling prices another .
about once a year a 350 CCM will come on ebay at a ridiculous price , lots of watchers but no bidders nearly every time
if you own a CCM ,you don't have it to ride, { it stays in the shed } - but you have to tell everyone that you own one and how much you think its worth
Hello, Steve Sell / Marlimar is in the UK {somewhere in the south I believe}
Las time I called him {a couple of years ago} his phone no. was - 02392 593120 or 07800 778048
you may have to leave a message and be patient as I think he is a busy man, and Ossa spares probably not his main occupation, its worth the wait as he is helpful and very knowledgeable about these bikes.
Inmotion also do some parts, both of them may well be at Telford off road show
I've got an Ossa MAR with a lovely alloy tank which has been little used. I bought it about 10 years ago completely disassembled (everything including the engine, gearbox, rims and spokes - everything to it's last component). I put it together very carefully and had everything either polished, powdercoated and replaced with stainless. I don't remember much of the detail, but am now trying to get it finished. The engine is installed in the frame but moving the gear lever up or down does not select a gear and does not seem to engage with anything.
Two questions:
Am I going to have to take it all to pieces to get at the gear selectors and
Contrary to my experience with the old British bikes when I operate the kickstart lever and disengage the clutch this has no effect and the kickstart which will still turn the engine over. I see from the workshop manual it is what it describes and a constant mesh gearbox. Is this something to do with it?.
I've got a workshop manual.
I would be grateful if someone could point me in the right direction.
Hello, Yes unfortunately the kickstart procedure should be the same as an old Brit Bike - it has to be put in neutral for starting,
BUT the clutch is probably stuck so although pulling in the clutch lever should stop the kick start turning over the engine it wont if clutch is stuck/dragging
Have you started the engine and actually tried the gears/clutch ?
I have an MAR and the clutch is always stuck every time I start the bike from cold, however after 5-10 minutes of running it frees off and works fine
( I have tried all the different gear oils / clutch plates / adjustment methods etc. but none have cured this so I just live with it )
It doesn't, but if there was only one governing body, with a monopoly and no competition then that could turn bad eventually - charging silly fees for licences etc.
If you are worried about the ethanol content in the petrol ,maybe you could remove the ethanol with one of the kits from - www.ethanil.co.uk
I have never tried the process myself , but it seems simple enough from the instructions & I remember Classic Bike magazine doing an article about the process and they found it simple and had no problems.
}
British Trials/Scrambler/Motorcross Manufacturers ?
in General Trials Talk
Posted
Would bikes like Beamish Suzuki count ? ( British built frame & tank , assembled in Brighton ? )
or Yamaha HL500 ? ( assembled by NVT in the UK , with British built Frame )