southern

I had a great week as the only twin shock in the event I got a lot of support from the spectators. The bike was perfect all week I checked the air filter twice but never changed it as it was spotless and dry (even after Wednesday where we were carrying bikes through waist deep water). In 10 years it was my first time I haven't got to the top of the big step at witches burn but I still got a round of applause for trying!!! I finished the week with a nice clean on town hall bray with another round of applause which has sealed it for me.......another entry next year for the fantic!!! Even with all the water the drum brakes were fine and the only damage to the bike was a broken gear leaver. The fantic was comfortable at 50mph on the rode and I didn't need to worry about fuel. At the end I managed to scrape a 2nd class award finishing 207th and loosing 564 marks. Sherco were great allowing me to use their work area and airline. Thanks to everyone for their encouragement and support last week!!

I tried to contact bob last week but he had an answer phone message saying the shop was closed till the 9th April I think.....,,guess he was on holiday.

As I said I'm going for the sympathy vote but ithe fantic should feel really modern when I start the event as I'm riding my 500 ariel in the scotish 2days on the Friday and Saturday!!

Fantic 300 air cooled twin shock with drum brakes.

Yep I can see a few advantages with the fantic like not having cramped knees on the way to Lagan (high seat hight). Being able to not worry about fuel (could probably give fuel back at some stops!!) Big disadvantage are the drum brakes and everything else. Not looking forward to the pap of glen on Monday!! I do enjoy riding the fantic so I am looking forward to it. I think I will just have to take it a bit easy over the moors.

Yes I have done the ssdt 9 times before but always on montesa or beta (last 7 times on montesa) but for my 10th time I thought I would ride the fantic as I don't have a modern bike anymore. Also going for the sympathy vote in the sections! So especially when Caroline was doing the montesa support I got use to the luxury of having a gazebo to hide under and an airline to blow the worst of the mud off.

Hello, I have been reading the supplementary regs and have realised that after going through the final time check I have to stay in the car park. I was planing to go across the road to my accommodation to work on the bike as I will be riding a fantic this year. Does anyone know if any of the dealers would be offering a support service eg shelter and airline (at a cost?) to independent riders? Many thanks

Hi has anyone found a successful fix to stop the rivets on the base of the 09/10 model silencer pulling through. I had problems with the silencer coming loose in last years SSDT which was fixed with large head rivets. However the silencer has come loose twice since and I need to get a better fix for this years SSDT!

Has anyone taken the train to Rannoch to watch the sections near the station.....? If so how long/far a walk is it from the station, as my family were thinking of trying it this year instead of the long drive to chair lift then back to Fersit. Thanks

I appreciate what you say about plucking maps from the internet but I bought the software and leads so I could experiment with making changes and seeing what effect they have had. I did this really for my enjoyment rather than actually needing to change anything, I bought a couple of twinshocks for a similar reason in that I could re build them to do the classic series (when I eventually get round to registering them!)

I was wondering if anybody out there would be willing to share any maps they have suitable for the 2 map throttle bodies (either posted here or perhaps emailed to me?). I have a standard 2006 250cc 4RT the standard map that came with my software seems to be for the 260cc HRC Engine Kit. I would particular like to try maps where people have softened the power to get more grip (especially when backing off and trying to feed the power back in again), but would be interested in experimenting with any

I fitted a set of guards last Christmas but this years SSDT managed to remove most of the carbon fibre off the bottom edge of the guards but they stayed on for the whole week. They do look a bit tatty now but I fitted them again for the Scott and have left them on.... They do seem to be a very good fit even after grinding away the bottom edges on rocks!!!

Hello all, Does anyone know where I can purchase a clutch lightening kit for my 240 or does anyone have a drawing from which to manufacture the modified arm and cable stop

We did think about trying this but neither of us were too keen to experiment on our own wheels/bikes! I did find out that you should not use cans of "Big Air" in motorcycle tires as I think it contains propane!.

This sounded worth a try so we let all the air out of the tyre and wiped tyre soap round the bead and put 40psi back in....... we then rolled the bike forward and before we could even start it, it had poped out onto the rim. Tyre soap seems to be the way to go..........!!! we even let it back down to 4psi and used it all day with no problems. Thanks for the help

Thanks for the replies, I will have an experiment this week and let you know how I get on....... I have also always used Dunlops in Scotland and carried heavy duty cable ties just incase.......I was just thinking that I would need to be able to get the tire seated to be able to let it down to a useful pressure so I could get through the remainder of the days sections. Any idea how long cable ties would last on rocks?

I was wondering if anyone had any hints or tips for getting a rear tire back on the rim when out on a Scottish moor? I had always thought that should I be unfortunate enough to have the rear come off the rim I would take out the valve and fit the spare front tube in the rear. I thought I would then be able to inflate it with a pump and a CO2 cartridge to get it out onto the rim before letting it down to a more useful pressure to continue riding the sections before getting back to Fort William

I know there has been a lot of post on the PTB but I have a few questions which I haven’t seen answered else where, unless I have missed them…..so if anyone can provide the answers I would be grateful: 1) Apart from the ability to store maps and switch between them is there any differences between the 1map & 2map PTB? 2) I plan to keep the standard front pipe for the time being so do I leave the restrictors in or take them out with the PTB fitted? 3) I was going to ask for a soft map for slippery conditions and a sharper map for dry conditions for normal trials but thought that for the SSDT a standard map (for sections) and an economy map (for moors and road) may be useful. Is there any real fuel economy savings to be had and what effect will it have on the bike between sections? 4) I wasn’t planning on buying a connection kit at the moment, but was wondering what the kit contains to make it so expensive…….is it possible to build a DIY connection kit? Thanks

Sorry I have been having computer & email problems so have not been able to get online at home recently but: the latest on the 50 is I may have solved the problem.....not sure until the lad whos bike it is returns from holiday where he is testing it, but it did sound a lot better than before and I am quite hopeful. It would appear that someone had fitted a brass washer under the choke asembly causing the choke to always be open...... Will let you know if this little brass washer was the cause of all my problems when I find out....

It would be good to see a picture of the standard 300 front brake, if possible.... I do have a 240 which I have not started work on yet so have not compared the brakes, I guess the most efficent brakes will be the ones fitted to the standard 300? Thanks

Thanks for all the replies.... the reason why I thought the white frame may have been original was that when I scratched away at the pain in some areas near the coils and behind bracing at the front end I could find no evidence of any red paint.........so someone must have done a very, very good job! The bike itself seems really good even if it is a bit on the heavy side.....the power seems quite soft and forgiving although a bit more power would be nice! Which I guess a change of silencer may give me. The main problem I have at the moment is getting use to the brakes and suspension after riding my mont. Are there any tricks to improving the performance of the drum brakes?.......and as I want to use it in the classic rounds (when i get it registered!) it must keep its drum brakes.

I have a fantic 300 which I am currently sorting to ride in the ACU classic series. The frame of the bike is white, which after talking with Bill Pye indicates that it was one of the Thierry Michaud Replica bikes......I was wondering if anyone has a picture of one or knows what colour the plastics are supposed to be as they appear to have been painted red. Does anyone know if there were any other differences other than the colour between the standard 300 and this one. Also any recommendations for modifications to improve the performance and handling would be gratefully received (it is still fitted with the original silencer, which I guess will be one of the first items to go!).

Thanks for the reply I will have a play with the carb this weekend and see if I can improve things a little.... Do you think the carb would cause the problem of the engine bogging down under load??

I've been trying to get a 7 series Fantic 50 running properly for a freind but am failing....... The symptoms are: When engine is under high load ie attacking slope, the engine will start to bog down (even with 5st rider!) and eventualy die. Riding around on the flat the bike seems ok, when it is running!! Additionally starting is a problem. Other things noted: Air screw on carb has to be fully wound in to get the bike running ok (indicating air leak???). when reving the engine and shutting the throttle response seems normal (revs drop with no significant run on). If throttle is snapped open the engine seems to struggle and bog down, sometimes dieing and sometimes eventually clearing and picking up ok. There are no obviouse air leaks and no thick smoke. Head and base gasket have been replaced. There is a good spark however it appears more orange/red in coulor rather than blue? I would be realy greatful for any suggestions of things to try and get this bike running properly...... Thanks

Hello, A mate of mine has just got a shiny new 4rt from his local dealer, who removed all the lights and wiring loom. He wants to re fit the horn for road trials without cutting up the loom (just incase he ever wants to refit the lights). 1. Has anyone tried this already? 2. Will he need the relay fitted if he does re-fit the horn? Thanks for any advice