the early red tank ones do have odd size wheels, the white tank ones have 18 & 21, I think europe had a later model like the white tank ones except a red tank >>normal size tires on it also
I am not a big fan of the later model Amals, I think the early models were better but tend to wear the slide as already mentioned, my experience when changing my '85 montesa from the amal to a keihn increased the performance, seemed like almost 2 more horsepower for some reason, both carbs were properly jetted and ran well, I believe changing to a modern carb is the way to go, delotro or mikuni seem to be the most popular, not sure abought your absence of a choke...pull the block off plate to see if there is a fuel passageway to add one.
A while back I fitted a pair of wide foot pegs to both my bikes but on the TLR200 the kickstart hits the peg - it wasn't an issue as the peg was pretty tight and would stick in the fold back position out of the way. Downside was every time the peg hit an object it would stick and my foot would then be flailing around looking for the folded peg. So I oiled the springs and now the pegs are flicking back with alacrity - but now the bloody kickstart hits the peg. I have a 3 inch piece of number 8 fencing wire that can be hooked onto the peg to hold it but it is very clumsy and tedious as it has to be engaged by hand and that isn't always convenient.
Idea's anyone
if it just barley hits, bend the peg slightly, ong good smack with a mallet should do it
hy all ive got a 4rt and wheel spokes are loose and wheel looks buckled so they need re tightening so there straight is it a easy job and how is it done regards ste
it get easier after doing a few hundred of them
tighten the spokes evenly, while keeping the rim true, both up and down and side to side, might get one of those spoke torque wrenches, proper torque is essential
Here's a one for you all, Iv just started trails, Iv had bother with my left wrist for a few years,on my mountain bike Iv had to use a riser stem to raise the bars up abit to take the pressure off my wrist ( my left hand can literly fall asleep after awhile) which isnt good lol, could changing the bar postition on my beta help or i can I get a higher lift set of bars? All help much appreciated.
Cheers All
beginning riders tend to put a lot of wieght on their wrist, keep your knees bent a bit, be aware of how you are distributing your weight on the bike, get used to how it feels to transfer your wieght from the pege to the bars, you want your weight on the pegs, and you should have a very light pressure on the bars, practice riding one handed, this helps you to train your mind to ride with your feet
I did a bit of trials in the 80's on 70's twinshocks as they were all I could afford at the time and I've not ridden trials since but have done plenty of green laning and the odd enduro.
I realise that a very modern bike would probably be the best bet for ease of use but I have no desire to own one.......I just like aircooled traditional looking bikes so will stick with twinshock or aircooled mono class.
Would I notice much of a difference between riding an aircooled mono and a 70's/80's twinshock if both bikes were well maintained and sorted?
Will I make it easier on myself with a 90's mono bike or is the overall technology between the 80's & 90's bikes not that much different?
I want to do a few club trials to get back into it and have no desire for silverware. I have a garage queen Beamish, so will be buying another bike to get dirty.
Opinions welcomed..........
Thanks
not sure on the other side of the pond but here there is no air cooled mono class like we have for the twinshock bikes, you have to compete against modern bikes, most air cooled mono's are in my opinion better than the early twinshock bikes such as the TY250/350 or beta TR34, not sure on the SWM's, but I think a twinshock SWM or Fantic would go head to head with most any aircooled mono of the same time period
Hello i am just attempting restoring a 1981 cota 200 29m. i have two of most parts but wont give them up in case i have problems i will be riding this bike and they are fragile so i am told, i need a few things myself. on my second bike i have a complete 200 engine in good condition apart from kickstart gears does anyone know were i can get 2665.001 and 6265.001, and 2665.140. it also needs a std pistion+rings bore is good and standard size. i also need tank stickers, fuel filler cap,forkseals. oh why did i start could i not just be happy riding my new bike...hehe:) just love the old 200's my first proper trials bike even though it used to jump out of gear and throw me down big hills.
got my forkseals from Jared he has a few NOS parts for these, gaskets seals etc. watch feebay for odd pieces and parts, I decided to stay with the 123 cylinder since in has the nicosil plating, kinda rare I think, and makes enough power to handle milder twinshock sections with the Keihn carb on it. the keihn made a huge difference in power over the Amal, did pretty well on it at my last event (2nd place)
A question for you,I'll be pretty sparse on the nitty gritty, don't want to be acused of slagging anyone off but it's a bit of a moral dilema which I'd appreciate an unbiased view on.
Ordered some parts for the bike the other day, quite expensive in the UK but found a good price from the US, even including shipping and possible import tax. The contents of the kit was exactly the same as UK supplied and shown and listed on their web site in detail, same maker the works. Checked the price of the kit with the US supplier, all good and paid up over the phone. Problem; the kit turned up minus head and gaskets (barrel, piston, gudgeon pin and bearing supplied fine). Queried this with the supplier, turns out the US importer had supplied them with duff info (US importers web site was wrong)and I would need to buy a head seperately, they offered a special deal on a S3 head but didn't say what the price would be. I pointed out that I'd ordered and paid for a complete kit as detailed on their site and expected a head and gaskets to be forth coming. Am I being unreasonable? I realise that this is not directly my suppliers fault but then I don't think I should be stumping up for a head as well.
What do you guys think?
that would expalin the differnce in price, without having a link to supplier it's hard to judge.
this is what I found on a google search from one US gasgas parts supplier:
Kit includes: Re-plated cylinder, new genuine GASGAS piston, piston rings, piston pin, clips, necessary gaskets and seals. Piston pin bearing sold separately.
Hello there, I have 315r with piston slap. It wasnt to loud and only on tickover and low revs. I took the engine out this morning and took off the head and cylinder. The piston and barrel look very good with no signs of any wear, scratches or scores. The gudgin pin is noticably worn and small end has a little play, up and down movement, and there is some movement, very little on the big end. Now here is my dilema, I know that a new pin and small end will improve things but am I risking it by not changing the crank aswell and then if I change the crankshaft I should probably do the whole lot , thanks
the noise you describe (low rev) sounds like excessive cylinder to piston clearance, where a bad rodbearing will make more noise as you rev. the piston may not appear worn, recomend to measure clearance to determine if needs new piston, a noticibly worn wristpin is a sign of possible dirt injestion.
Recently took off my fly wheel to see why there was no power going to the fan. once i opened it this part fell out figured out it was the coil that creates the power for the fan cant find it on splat shop because i dont know what it is called anyone know what it is?
it appears you need a stator, doesn't seem to offer the charge coil seperatly, looks like you have to buy the whole thing, this normal for modern bikes accross the board to not offer the coils seperatly
Hello, i like to get a stiffer feel in the front fork on the evo 2009 and some guys are saying to increse the oil level in the fork. Do i need to increse the level in both fork ? I know that one fork in the compression the the other is the rebound .
Thank you
are the forks bottomimg out or is the action too soft? I assume you have adjusted the preload, it doesn't really matter if they have different amounts of oil per fork, I always use the same amount per fork unless the manufacturer recomends a differnt amount, one thought is to change from 5 to 7 weight on the compression leg to slow the action, adding more oil will change the bottom out point but won't really make it stiffer.
Are there any other decnt brake and clutch levers on the market except for the Domino. I put them on my last Fantic and yes they are great levers but a bit expensive ?
not sure on the Fantic but I bought really nice aftermarket Honda CR clutch lever & perch combo made by MSR that went right on the '85 Montesa for both the brake & clutch with no modifications, the feel is awesome and the price was good
trials is a sport of passion, I have seen too many top riders walk away from the sport beceause they could make money at another sport, some of them just burn out, to me trials is a very personal thing, it's just me against the terrain, for me it just doesn't get any better than that, it takes a lot of work to be at the top in trials, I can see why some of the top rider's burn out, it has to be fun if they are going to stay with the sport, it always perplexes me when a rider with double my skills walks away from the sport, for me I hope to always keep striving to be a better trials rider, It's still fun after 33 years. I hope my health stays good enought to do another 33 years.
I grew into trials, I learned at an early age that cross-training for trials helped with overall skills, whether riding my bicycle or my motorcyle, I was mostly interested in cross country racing or Enduros at the time, by the time I was 18 years old I enjoyed the cross training so much I bought my first trials bike, I was hooked, that was 30 years ago.
Sorry but you are quite wrong. The forks are air assisted and have the valve to allow you to put in 15psi and no more, it will made a huge difference to the damping. You should used 195cc of 10/15 or 20W frok oil accoring to your weight and riding preference.
The top spacer/tube in the forks were about 4" long with a 'top hat' top and bottom. I will have a pair apart in a week or so and measure them accurately. No-one does springs specifically for the Beamish you just have to hunt about! Try www.bultaco.co.uk and see how long their springs are or try Craig Mawlam as he as started doing 'Magical' springs.
well I wouldn't do it like that, air in forks is not the way to go in my oppinion, tune the forks with oil, springs, and preload, there is a reason why forks dont have shrader valves anymore, it works, yes, is there a better way? yes.
none, use the schrader valves to let pressure out as it builds up, if you need more spring pressure add preload spacers, if you are bottoming out add 10 to 20 cc extra of fork oil
well snow still stopping us !!! so tv it is !! when flicking around over the last few days i found the X GAMES ! with travis flying around on all sorts of stuff as we all will of seen over the years .
they have no idea how to market it? not mainstream enough? shouldn't be that hard, seems a whole lot more interesting than down hill skate boarding, I have heard all kind of answers to this questions for the past 10 years, if the NATC is not interested, wish some one would, it wont be me, I'm no politician, my guess is there is a money issue, probably some kind of buy in, just speculation on my part, if I were an importer I would be pushing for X games, I heard a while back there was one person who had tried for years (possibly an importer) but I don't know the details, I don't think this person post on TC
Post # 200 Cota 200 Top End On A 123?
in Twinshock
Posted
the early red tank ones do have odd size wheels, the white tank ones have 18 & 21, I think europe had a later model like the white tank ones except a red tank >>normal size tires on it also