woody

oooooohhh - the mark up on your parts has just increased....... Dabster, what about these frames, are they 340?

There is no attachment to the engine. They are just the stub spindles you mention, mounted directly to the frame plates either side but I couldn't see exactly how as it is all very tight. I think just a bolt pushed through the bush from the inside and a nut on the outside. The spindle is so much closer to the final drive than on Vesty's bike. It worked well as JR had some good results on it when the Bult was past it's best and up against 240 Fantics etc. Maintenance nightmare though as just to get the clutch case off looks like removal of the swingarm or the engine....

I'd put money on that being John Reynolds' Monoshock Ossa as he was the only Ossa UK 'works' rider on the mono at that time. Can't remember who made them but not Cheney. Don't think they were Whitlock either, pretty sure he only did the twinshock frame.

No, the spindle doesn't go through the engine, it is mounted either side of the engine

Yes, thought it was you. Didn't recognise you though at the Peak Classic I rode late last year at Bracken. Think you were observing on one of the sections on the Sunday - I missed the Saturday after Friday night reunion with some old work colleagues but was still feeling it Sunday... Probably why I didn't recognise you as I still couldn't see much. It was like looking through one of those kaleidescope things that were around when we were kids. The bike is a pretty good copy of the frame mods to Vesty's bike except the swingarm hasn't been moved but I know someone that can do that for me if I want to go that far. It needs the rear mudguard mounts repairing and all the welds and joints need tidying but he can do that too. It would be nice to copy the JR one but it is a lot of work and you have to move the engine or swingarm just to get the clutch cover off so a bit impractical. But it would be nice to do it.... Biggest job is that it needs an exhaust making as the standard Bulto one won't fit between the shock and the wheel. Hope to have it done this year but I'll be lucky

Fact is this. The rebuilable makes are ALL as good as each other IF they are set up properly. If they don't work as you like when you get them the damping can be altered by the shimming inside and/or oil weight. Obviously it it is better if they work correctly when you get them as you don't want to be messing with them, just fit and ride. As an illustration I had a pair of Falcons for my Seeley which worked as I wanted from the box but I put them on my BSA which was used more and needed shocks and they are the same length and angle as the Seeley. They work very well on the BSA. When funds allowed I got some more for the Seeley, exactly the same order as before. These don't work. Spring rate is too soft and damping may be too hard, difficult to tell untill the spring rate is corrected. How can this be, two identical orders for the same bike, one works the other doesn't.... It's not the end of the world and can be corrected, just a nuisance. BUT, if I was a customer who had only bought one pair of shocks, that being the second pair, what do you think my recommendation to others would be - don't buy Falcons, they're no good - which obviously isn't true. Had I bought only the other pair I would be singing their praises. See what I mean, people will recommend on their own experiences and from what they expect from the shocks. Hence my opening line. Rockshocks - again different opinions. I know people who have them and are very satisfied. I have a pair that don't work the way I want as again the spring rate is too soft. Until that is corrected I can't tell if the damping is right. So again, if I didn't understand what makes the shock work I could be deterring people from buying Rockshocks as my experience is that they are cr*p. Again, this would be wrong as they aren't, it's just the set up of that particular pair and I knew the springs would probably be too soft when I bought them. Higher rated ones are available shortly. In terms of alloy or steel bodies, it isn't going to make the slightest bit of noticeable difference to the way the bike rides. It will save a bit of weight but so what, it means nothing in reality. As Malcra has said, the biggest gain would be for us to lose weight, not the bikes... Alloy shocks definitely look nicer though. I've a mate with Betors on a 72 Bultaco and they work reasonably well and another with them fitted to a 240 Fantic. They work well enough but are a bit soft as the bike came from someone considerably lighter. The action seems good though. As far as I know they aren't rebuildable so obviously, with these units you are stuck with what you get as there is no way of altering the damping characteristics, only spring rate. So pot luck if they work as you want when you get them. If I were you and funds permit, I would go for a rebuildable pair as at least they can be tuned if they don't work as you like from the box. As for as which brand - personal choice. Forgot to mention - one thing to consider is that the Rockshocks are far easier to service at home due to the way they are put together. The top/cap unscrews unlike Falcons and there are no circlips to fight with. They were designed with this in mind as other shocks, especially old style original Rockshocks can put up one hell of a fight when trying to remove the cap from the body and with circlip removal...

Yes, I'm also assuming it's a 340 frame. You're right about the back end having more feel OTF. Mine has the shocks moved up the swingarm although the pivot isn't moved (was it you I bought it off?) and the difference can be felt over the stock bike as Bults always feel a bit dead at the back. They work, but just not much feel.

You're not kidding - have you ever priced up the plastic swing arm protector that runs top/bottom of the swingarm?

If it was January and off the A44 it would be the Evesham Midland Centre Championship trial.

Dabster, tried to PM you but it won't let me as it says your inbox is disabled or full. I'll buy one off you if you're selling as mine is badly damaged. I could maybe sell the other one for you too if OTF doesn't want one.

No appologies for again mentioning the results achieved by Dave Hooke on his standard 340 in the ACU Classic series a few years ago now, winning many rounds over the seasons as well as the series outright. The bike is plenty capable, it's down to the rider. OK, back in the day it was lacking against the latest twinshock machinery but trick riding was in full swing and the last of the twinshocks were developed for it whereas the Bult wasn't. Classic trials are non-stop so those disadvantages disappear and it can hold its own against the rest under such rules. I'm not saying don't modify it, if it is done well and the mods improve its performance there is no reason why they should devalue it, but in my opinion the bike is for riding, not an investment and ultimately it's your bike to do what you like with. Anyway, to the point - some pictures. Vesty's last bike JR's bike - serious mods

Still looking for one of these decals or an old mudguard with one on that I can get copied. Come on guys, there must be some TYZ owners out there with one of these decals on an old mudguard that they don't want. I'll buy it off you for the cost of a new replacement plus the postage costs

Check Falcon shocks website, it has a chart with the shock length of most trials bikes so the 175/200 Majesty may well be on there too.

Yes, the Bulto is a handy design in that the seals are held in carriers which bolt onto the crankcases from the outside, so no need to split the engine. Just unbolt the carrier, replace the seals and refit (either side) Crank seal went on my Ossa today, just hoping that I can dig it out and replace it without splitting the engine.

Have a look on this website of a dealer here in UK who sells a lot of RS and TL Hondas. If you look at the SOLD link as well as the TRIALS one there are a lot of pictures of Honda RS and TL trials models http://www.trackandtrialmotorcycles.com/

There's an M80 wheel on ebay at the moment. I know you have one already but if it comes at the right price and has a brake plate (doesn't say) it solves your missing brake plate problem. Item 230090795724. Yours is a model 80 slimline which is 71/72. I'm guessing the rear silencer is a Miller one. It's not original as all Bulto one's were steel and that shape was fitted to later bikes anyway. The original type would have been the triangular silencer that everyone threw away (and now wants again.... although you can get new ones again now) There is a mounting lug on the rear of the rear frame tube under the top shock mount which is for the triangular silencer. Model 80 was the first to have this.

From memory, I think the colour is actually Ford Electric Monza blue. It's a very good match to the original Bultaco blue. As per above post the frame, tank, sidepanels, swingarm, mudguards are all blue, engine and fork legs are black. Sounds like yours has been fitted with the earlier airbox which was a period mod (don't know why) as the 198a should have the smaller sidepanels. Bigger ones were fitted up to 1977.

627 carb is the correct type, as in 600 series, 27mm. You can still buy new Amals but only in 'even' number sizes such as 24, 26, 28mm etc. so unlikely it is a new carb unless someone had sourced some new old stock. Timing is personal preference really, anywhere between 2 and 4mm BTDC. Can't think of plug type of top of my head. NGK BPES6 or 7? Front wheel doesn't look like an early Cota as they were massive hubs, could be an early Pursang. The lug on the left of the brake plate showing behind the fork leg looks like it is the cable mount as the earlier Sherpas and Pursangs up to about '72 had the brake arm pointing rearwards under the fork leg. Type 91/92 Sherpa onwards had them pointing forwards with the cable locater on the bottom of the torque arm. Clutch cover definitely off the later model but you'll easily pick up the correct type if you're bothered. Yours looks like a type 80 but the front exhaust pipe looks like a 49 type as it is straight across the top instead of bending down to meet the silencer. Instead, the silencer (Sammy Miller one) has been modified with a bend to meet the front pipe. Love the alloy back box, Miller again I think. Nice straight bike on the whole which wouldn't take much to make 100% original if that is what you want to do

Ignition timing can be anywhere between 2mm BTDC and 3.5mm BTDC depending on what kind of response you want from the motor. Personal preference really - although on my MAR I could never tell any difference whhichever it was set at - just felt the same at 2 as it did at 3.5. Can't help with the wiring as I've never owned one with the points ignition so not familiar with it. Can't you download a diagram from Mats Nyberg site? Ditto the carb, never had one with a Bing but it may give the settings in the Clymer Ossa/Montesa/Bultaco combined manual (the thick one with the brown cover) as I think it has a supplement for the later bikes in the Ossa section.

Yes I'd agree. you don't need an extensively modded engine to make it run well. Decent airbox and exhaust with a reliable and efficient ignition and it will do all it needs to. Tried one a couple of years ago and it had all the power needed for classic events.

No dedicated twinshock events or classic events that cater specifically for twinshocks in the Midland Centre as there isn't a dedicated following unlike other areas of the country but that doesn't mean there are no trials to ride your bike in. You can ride it in any trial that has sections of a suitable nature, essentially any club trial and you'll always find a few other twinshocks at them. Most ACU or AMCA club events will be suitable and if they don't run a twinshock class it doesn't matter, just enter as a Novice/Clubman/Over 40 - whatever you are and ride it on the course that suits you. Some clubs run 2 routes, some run 3, just pick the one that suits. For a bit more of a challenge, the AMCA do a 50/50 'clubman' route where you ride a mixture of routes, the easiest of the harder sections and the rest on the easy route. As has been mentioned, Stourbridge trials are of a gentle nature and good for pre65 and twinshocks and there is one coming up in a few weeks near Kidderminster so may be a good idea to go and have a look. They are always on Saturday afternoons or Bank Holidays. If you want to venture out a bit there is the Peak Classic club in Derbyshire, Herefordshire Classic, Border Classic (Oswestry area) Wilts and Dorset (but good luck to you in getting an entry there...) Golden Valley Classic (Bath and surrounding area) Bath Classic and maybe a couple more I've forgotten. If your're road legal with it there is the Sammy Miller Classic bike championship that has a twinshock class and all events are single or 2 lap trials and offer a good ride around roads and green lanes rather than 10 sections in a field. It's a national championship so the events are spread out but the sections are generally quite gentle and laid out more for pre65 bikes. All of these clubs advertise their events in TMX so get a copy and look through the regs available at the back although you'll usually have to look on the AMCA's own page for details of their events, they're not always in the regs at the back. There is also the calendar on this site for what's on. Main thing is to get out on your bike and enjoy riding it. Whether it is in a twinshock trial or a twinshock class is not important. Enjoying riding it is and there are plenty of events out there.

Best 2nd 3rd 4th 5th This is a nice one too but there isn't a better photo to see it properly. Built in Spain for Magical's 60th I believe and a bit trick I imagine judging by the slimline ignition cover. Must be a lightweight flywheel in there far starters.

picture now added in earlier post

Don't know if this is any use to you but I've attached a picture of a TY250 twinshock stay (presumably a Miller one) that came off my Majesty. Distance between the mounting holes front to back (ie; on one leg) is 10cm centre to centre. Width of the stay is almost 12cm (measured accross the bolt holes from the outside edge of the bracket that contacts with the lugs on the fork leg) Measured with a ruler and the bracket has pulled a bit but close enough for what you need I would think. Hope this helps Won't let me upload the picture for some reason so I'll add it later when sorted out.

I doubt it even though it was never an issue. Rob Shepherd successful in the 70s on the Honda, Lejeune 3x World Champ in the 80s on the 360. Lejeune and Saunders successful again on the RTL Monos winning world rounds but no championship this time. Dougie winning the first outdoor world round on the 4RT and maybe the title but for injuries. Fujinama winning more rounds than anyone in the world rounds last year. Yep, those 4 strokes really struggle. On the indoor circus, Fuji has always been hit or miss and lacked consistency whereas Doug, at one time the most consistent of them all, ever, is probably now past what it takes to win again indoors, consistently at least (and people seem to forget he lost both titles when on the 2 stroke) So it's hard to guess at whether it is rider or bike - as let's face it, none of us actually know, how can we. Indoors is hardly an even playing field anyway as the Spanish riders get far more exposure and practise on the sections than anyone else so they ought to win. Whether Bou wins again all season on the 4RT indoors doesn't matter, he has proved twice, by a large margin, that it can.