woody

Well if everything works ok, you've a good useable twinshock for a pretty good price there. In case you didn't know, the engine number means it is a 250. I noticed there was a question mark over the engine size in the ebay questions. Good luck in the greybeards, I'll look for the Gripper in the results.

Honda UK possibly, as they were Honda commissioned bikes and sold through the dealer network. Or try the Vintage Motorcycle Club who are able to date off-road bikes and their certificate of dating is accepted by DVLA for age related plates. Worth phoning them and asking the question. http://www.vmcc.net/ For shocks I'd use either Falcon or the new Rockshocks for good quality and action

There are 3 rear wheel bearings as standard, 2 on the sprocket side and 1 on the brake. This is with the original dished sprocket fitted. If you have the flat sprocket and carrier conversion then there is an extra bearing in the carrier itself, so you have 3 on the sprocket side and 1 on the brake side. No Ossa MAR wheel I have seen has had 2 bearings on the brake side. 6201 is the right bearing size. Length of the spacer depends on whether you have the original dished sprocket or the flat conversion, with the dished sprocket the spacer is obviously longer. As there is no spacer on the brake side, it is just a case of measuring the gap on the other for the length of spacer required. Clutch push rod is actually 2 rods with a ball bearing in between. Don't know the sizes off hand but if I can find one I'll measure it. Both rods are the same size. Original style skid plate you'll have to hunt around for as no-one stocks them but Steve Goode has a new old stock Renthal which is just as good, the only difference being it doesn't have the raised sides like the original but that means that it is possible to remove the side casings without dropping the bashplate like you have to with the original type. It is probably just the plate itself and you would need the front mounting brackets from the original plate.

You don't say what bike you're competing on and this changes the perception of how difficult the series is. If you're on a modern bike I'd suggest that any of the sidecar rounds, with the exception of the Peak you will find a bit on the soft side as they don't offer much of a challenge to the better twinshock/pre65 riders. Personally I wish they'd drop them as it seems they are only classic rounds to bolster entries and make the sidecar trials viable (I've nothing against sidecars but the sections in those events aren't set for the solos) Of the remainder:- Newquay Cornwall - long way to go and one of the easier rounds. I rode it in its first year and it was too easy, didn't go last year and I was told it was better. I'll go again this year. It's only just outside Newquay so you could make a weekend of it. Lancs County and Bootle - two of the best rounds and both on the same weekend this year so an overnight stop up in Lancs or Cumbria necessary. Well worth it though. Both are hard but not in the bike or limb mashing way. They are technical sections and mainly rocks (streams, outcrops, gulleys) and can be energy sapping. You have to be line perfect or lose marks, that's where the difficulty factor lies. Once you start centipeding they can be energy sapping and that is when the scores can rise. Welsh Trohy - If Rhayader club run it then it's not to be missed as even though it is a sidecar trial it is perfect for the solos too. Good mix of sections. If Mid Wales run it then it is generally too easy but if they do, it is still at Rhayader this year so who knows. When they run it it is normally at a different venue. Phil King - Colchester. This has been a cracking trial in the past but often criticised as being too hard. It was always held in February so copped the worst of the weather. Big banks with big climbs and descents which are hard if wet - and they were. Personally I loved it even though the Ossa was lacking in the brakes department - some exciting descents. Now in April so should be drier like last year. Still good sections, mainly muddy streams and big banks (but drier in April - maybe...) Alscott Cup - Tavistock in Devon and another of the best rounds with a very good mix of sections from rock outcrops, streams, big banks, roots, mud. Worth the trip definitely. Hillsborough - Sheffield - Another of the best and most difficult, again not because it is intimidating, just due to the sections being technical and requiring precision. If you're on it you save energy. Mainly rock streams but one or two bits of muddy banking. If you're not and you're legging with the bike you get tired - as per Bootle. Peak - North (very) Derbyshire - Not one of my favourites as it all comes down to the last group but others love it - just a personal thing really. Not as hard as Bootle/Hillsborough but hard enough for most I think. Just going back to the severity of the sections, Twinshocks will cope with the sections no problem with competent riders aboard, the Lancs County round was won by a handy bloke on a 175 Yam last year and Phil Wiffen, twinshock champion, generally beat most of the modern bikes on his 300 Fantic. Unless you're anything other than pretty handy, as far as a pre65 bike goes you need a well fettled one. On a standard bike most will struggle. Obviously modern bikes will have no problem with the sections but the riders have to be 'on it' to beat the better twinshocks and that bugger Thorpey. I'd say give the series a go as it will be something new and gets you out of the usual routine. If as Dabster says, you are the same standard as Phil then you'll cope no problem.

Thanks for that I've just found the details of last year's trial on the website. Entries came out on 16 Jan and could be downloaded from the site. Closed 3 Feb. Maximum 180 but twinshocks capped at 40 so I think I'll enter on the C15 in Pre65 as more favourable odds in the ballot

Has anyone got any idea when the regs for the Manx Classic come out and where to get them from. In previous years, by the time I've found out they are out the trial is already full.... I'd really like to do it this year along with the Manx National and make a week's holiday out of it as I've never done either. I e-mailed the club yesterday so waiting for their reply but just wondered if anyone on here knew - or even has a set already....

It's a Gripper, all they've done is modify the swingarm and shock mounts. Frame is nothing like a MAR. This along with the colour, missing tail pipe, seat and seat/unit, probably makes it look worse than it is as besides that, the rest of it looks in sound condition. Good forks and wheels, exhaust, engine cases etc. Obviously the mechanical state of it is unknown but if it sells for around that price it would be a good basis for a rebuild. Any more and it becomes too expensive and too much effort to put back to original as finding the missing parts will be hard. However, it's also a good basis for a special. After all, bikes did have mods carried out to them at the time they were current and it's nice to see modified bikes as well as standard ones. All this one needs is the shock mounts and positioning tidied up and it would be something different. Not sure about it being a common mod though.... Never seen another one like it. Beautiful Gripper Roberto.

Try Ellastone Offroad or A & B Autos as they have both broken Mont 247 Cotas. Both advertise in the back of TMX.

If you're talking about a new Mikuni VM from Allens they may have jet sizes already sorted from people who have converted previously. If they haven't ask them to jet it as per a 250 Bultaco (they have the jet sizes for these) as the Ossa and Bult use the same jet and slide sizes in the 627 Amal. Also make sure that they supply the carb with the rubber tipped float needle and housing, because if they don't I can guarantee that the carb will p*ss out fuel at every opportunity. Mine did until I fitted that needle and housing. I can't give you jet sizes as mine was for a reed valve engine which is jetted differently. Being a 76 model yours should have the carb that pushes into a rubber inlet hose rather than bolts on. The Mikuni will fit straight into the hose, no problem. The plastic hose from the airbox to the back of the carb won't fit the Mikuni though as the Mikuni inlet is bigger than the Amal. I use a rubber inlet boot from a 98 GasGas which fits pretty well. If you're talking about a used Mikuni another option from the KT carb, which I've no experience of, is to use the carb from an RD250 Yam but make sure it is the one from the pair with the choke lever. These are supposed to work straight off with the Yam jets.

Yes, Yamaha UK will supply you with a letter that confirms the date of manufacture if you write to them with the frame number. Write to; Yamaha Motor (UK) Ltd Customer Service Sopwith Drive Brooklands Weybridge Surrey KT13 0UZ When I got mine it was a very helpful lady called Moira Dwan who sorted it for me. No need for any pretence as to why you need the information, just say it is so the bike can be registered. There was no charge. This was a year or so ago, so if you want to confirm whether the procedure has changed you can phone Yamaha on 01932 358000 and ask for Customer Service or Moira. For an age related plate DVLA need proof of age from an authorised body - The Importer or the Vintage Motorcycle Club. The letter from Yamaha will be enough for DVLA to provide an age related plate as they are the official importer. I also have a bike that has a Q plate. They are used when it is not possible to prove the year of manufacture and I have been told by DVLA that it is not possible to change from a Q plate to an age related even though proof of age has subsequently become available. Once on a Q plate - always a Q plate. On another occassion I had another bike that I knew had been registered but the V5 had been lost and I didn't know what the reg number was. I phoned DVLA and asked if they could tell me from the frame number so I could apply for the V5. They told me they couldn't (not wouldn't, couldn't, as their computer system 'didn't do that') What a load of B*****ks I thought, so then I asked what I could do about registering it for the road, assuming that if I applied for a registration number (as though it had never been registered) surely it would show up that that frame number was already registered. No it won't they said, you'll just get a new number..... So, I thought that is the way to lose the Q plate. I'll just apply for a new registration for the Q plated bike and put a letter in with it that the original log book has been lost and that I have no record of the original number and see what happens. May be worth a try but it depends when you last taxed it or declared it SORN of course. If it was recently, then the 'I've lost the reg number' story won't hold much water.

The CRF Hondas have a habit of the valves grinding themselves back into the head inserts thereby closing the valve clearances. This can make them hard to start, especially when warm. Worth checking the clearances to see if this is the problem.

don't know about the front flip being one of the hardest tricks - it all looks impossible to me. Can't get over how easy he makes some of it look, it's performed with such grace. One seriously good rider there, very impressive. I like the bounce off the tree best 6' up in the air

By special, I mean it will get to the end of the trial.... maybe

I think you have summed up perfectly why some of us seem to have gone mad and taken on projects to rebuild and own various makes of trials bikes that we would have liked to have owned when they were new - certainly the reason why I have aquired a few. They were bikes I would love to have ridden at the time but couldn't afford to. Or in other instances, bikes that I started out on. If I can ever get some finished I can't wait to get out and ride them in classic events - hopefully the Robregordo next year for one on an Ossa special. You have a superb collection of Bultacos

I've never managed to get an engine in or out with the barrell fitted. Easiest way is to have the bike as a rolling chassis and without the barrell fitted fit the engine in the frame from underneath, rear bottom mounting first. Note that the barrell won't fit over its studs once the engine is mounted in the frame on all it's mounting points. To fit the barrell you can either; - remove the front 2 studs, fit the barrell over the piston and then refit the studs and then head or - just hold the engine in the frame on the bottom rear bolt which allows it to tip forward. There is then enough clearance to fit the barrell without removing the studs. Once the barrell is on, the engine can be tipped back upright into its normal position and the head fitted. Unless anyone knows of an easier way, especially removing the engine without having to remove the barrell.

For the clutch actuator, it's very unlikely you'll source a new one (but you never know) For used, try the usual suppliers, Ellastone Offroad, A& B Autos, Mainly Spanish or Sammy Miller. Bike looked a real good buy for

If you want to stick with the original set up you need to sort the two problems which are that the standard forks are under-sprung and under-damped. As you've noticed they collapse on drop-offs. To sort the damping you need to revalve the damping rods by braising over the holes in the tubes and re-drilling to half the original diameter as a starting point. It will be trial and error and a lot of stripping and rebuilding to get it to where you want but they can be made to work as well as mono forks with the right settings as I've ridden one of Craig Mawlam's bikes with the mods done back to back with another with mono forks. No noticeable difference, both worked well. It's just a pain getting there. I tried a few times, gave up and put the mono front end in. If the damping mods are done successfully, you'll probably get away with the standard springs as the increased damping effect won't allow the forks to collapse so easily - unless they are knackered of course. Don't know anywhere here that does uprated springs but BJ Racing in the States used to. No other springs will fit as they are such a small diameter. If you go the mono route, Mono yokes wont fit the Majesty headstock, you need to bore out the Majesty yokes to take the mono forks. Majesty yokes have a bit less trail than the mono so this compensates for the fact that you now have a leading axle instead of in line. As per the previous post though, make sure you get a front wheel in good nick. Alternatively, bore out the yokes to take Marzocchi front end such as that fitted to Fantic/Armstrong etc etc. or even Ossa forks which are in line and take the same spindle size which means the Majesty wheel will fit. You may just have to alter the offset a few mm on the spokes for the Ossa forks (I had a TY wheel in an Ossa once so they will fit) You should be able to get a pair of TY twinshock yokes from a breaker to alter so that you can revert to the standard set up if necessary. No problem with the different forks in the Majesty for twinshock events. All the forks mentioned are of the period and although the mono is a later model they were still ridden alongside Majesty in competition in 83/84 so can't see a problem with mono forks. It's just discs and monos converted to twinshocks that are banned (from the ACU Classic series - individual clubs have their ownn rules for their own events)

I've also got the aftermarket/modern electronic conversion fitted to my Majesty. Main reason for fitting it was to dispense with the hassle of maintaining a points/condensor set up and for reliability. Can't say there is any noticeable increase in performance from a better spark or whatever but I didn't expect it anyway and that wasn't the reason for fitting it. As per the previous post though, it does give far more variation to timing set up than the points so it is easier to alter the response of the engine for a softer or sharper pick up. Definitely a noticeable difference there. You don't say where you are so if you're outside the UK I don't know where you would get this kit from which comprises the backplate, source coil and replacement CDI HT coil. It uses the standard flywheel. In the UK it is Craig Mawlam that was supplying them but I no longer have his contact details either. If you can get hold of Jon Bliss he will have them. Alternatively, a TY Mono staor will fit straight on and can be used with the existing Majesty flywheel, along with the mono CDI and HT coil. You just need to work out the timing point to get it fired up and then experiment with settings. I think you have to elongate the slots in the mono backplate to get the correct timing point but can't remember. As regards flywheel weight you don't say if your bike is 250 or 320. If it is a 250 take the weight off altogether and try it. A lot of 250 Majesties seem to have pretty much standard motors which are quite flat and removing the weight livens them up a bit. If it is a 320 just advancing the timing should make it sharp enough with the weight fitted. The price of the aftermarket kit is about

Make sure you hadn't pinched either the fuel line from the tank to the carb or the fuel cap breather tube when last fitting the tank as either will restrict the fuel flow to the float bowl and produce similar symptoms to those you describe. I know of a couple of instances where this has happened on a SY so it is a possibility.

Riders ae supposed to ride each section in turn, not ride sections randomly or several times per lap. This is the general rule and best way to keep a level playing field for everyone. Imagine a 10 section 4 lap trial where a couple of sections will deteriorate badly when the rain that is coming arrives. A rider who rides these 2 sections 4 times each on the first lap whilst they are still rideable gains a distinct advantage over those who ride them each lap in turn and at their worst on later laps. In short, they've cheated. It also keeps the trial flowing and avoids large queues at certain sections - imagine if an entire entry of 70 - 80 riders wanted to ride those 2 sections 4 times on the first lap...

Can't really offer any advice on how much or what to look out for but the brake on the left shouldn't really cause a problem. A bike like that and the type of sections you use it on can be ridden on the throttle alone and when you need to brake just the front brake should be enough as the closed throttle engine braking will slow up the rear. Unless you're riding it on really nadgery stuff - which they aren't really suited to unless fully modernised - I can't see that you would ride it one finger on the clutch and brake style. If you do, it's just a personal thing as to how an individual adapts to the left brake, no use asking anyone else as we're all different. My C15 for example hasn't even got a rear brake fitted at the moment and has been like that for the last two trials. Doesn't bother me though as I hardly ever use it when it's there, but it's not something that causes a problem if I have to - neither does the right change. Good luck with the hunt, I'd love one myself but don't know enough about them and could easily get taken in by someone with a mind to.

Saunders won on 2 marks lost...... Those Rev 3 Betas must be bloody good bikes to find all that grip in those conditions. Reckon we all should get one.....

You won't need matching frame/engine numbers to get a V5 - as long as you don't volunteer to DVLA that they are supposed to match they will be none the wiser and won't care. All they are interested in when they inspect the bike is that the frame/engine numbers match with those that you have put on the application and that the bike is what you say it is. They don't MOT inspect it. Historic tax is cut off at end of 1973 and the age, or year of manufacture of a vehicle, is based on the chassis number so you won't get free tax on it as the frame is 1974 - if that is what the dating certificate says of course. Depends on who you are getting to date it to prove the year of manufacture - maybe you can swing them towards 1973.... There are various places to get one from I think. Maybe Sandifords as the importer, Sammy Miller, Vintage Motorcycle club. It has to be someone that the DVLA recognises in an official capacity in order to get the age related plate, otherwise it is a Q plate Can't help with the other stuff but you might want to try Ellastone Offroad if you want a spare engine, or A & B Autos, both advertise in TMX. There is also some Mont 247 stuff on ebay at the moment. Good luck with it, I have one myself to do one day. Nice looking bikes, almost as nice as an Ossa from the same period - but not quite...

Yes, he was riding it well as you say. One or two sections were a bit tight for a non trick rider like me but he didn't mind them. Bloody kids I was disappointed not to be able to try it as it did look to perform well and as Spud says, it is a good looking bike. Thing is though, I was just behind him for most of the trial and I can't honestly remember that there seemed to be any starting problems with it. The sound really reminded me of a KTM though with the standard exhaust still fitted. Quiet exhaust and a muffled induction suck from the airbox. Sounded stifled actually but obviously wasn't/isn't. I do hope they get it sorted and reintroduce it (it's not on the website as an 07, just an 06) Even if I'm not to keen on a particular model for whatever reason, it's still nice to see variety out there and if they all offer 2 and 4 stroke models, except Honda of course, it can only make trials more interesting. Assuming they were all reliable and good quality, a 320 4T engine would give the Sherco a head start for me when it came to which one.

That has just cheered me up after a bad week at work I'd liked to have tried the Sherco 4T as the concept of a bigger motor with more torque is my preference. I was asked to try one at a trial when they first came out as I was on my 4RT and the dealer was interested in how I thought they compared. Unfortunately a split intake hose meant the bike wasn't available afterwards so never did get to try it. If it grips anything like a 290, has more torque and a linear power delivery and had the starting problem resolved I think I might like one.