woody

It's a 1978 model 199 if it's a 350 or a 198 if it's a 250. Originally silver frame and red plastics and mudguards.

If you want footrest brackets that allow you to kickstart the bike without folding up the rest, then as mentioned above, TY Offroad make them. There are pictures on their website. They sell the new fixing plate/bracket, then you buy your own footrests. They give the bike a more modern stance by lowering the pegs (maybe back a bit as well, not sure) and they are made to accept any of the modern type rests from Hebo, Apico, S3 etc.

Brake arm is positioned like this with a longer torque arm

Half links aren't available from all chain manufacturers and as someone else mentioned those that you can buy don't necessarily fit other chains, so you may not get one that fits your chain. You should be able to push the wheel all the way forward without the brake arm fouling. What may be causing your problem is that your brake arm is from a Pursang and the way it is fitted means that it sits on an angle and so is closer to the swingarm. The Sherpa arm is straight, not bent and so has more clearance because it sits vertically, not on an angle. Try removing the arm and turning it so that the lower half points up vertically and then see if you can move the wheel further forward (obviously you'll need to disconnect the rear brake to do this but all you're trying to achieve is to see whether the arm position is stopping the wheel going fully forward) Or you could fit a longer torque arm which will lift the spline above the swingarm as it will rotate the brake plate anti-clockwise I've found with standard sprocket sizes, especially on the later bikes which are 11:39, the chain is always too long or short to get proper adjustment. I run non standard rear sprocket sizes which helps get the chain adjusted properly (ie: if you had one or two teeth less on your rear sprocket the chain wouldn't be so tight) So sprocket sizes are another way of overcoming a chain that won't adjust properly. Yours are 11:46 standard. If you fitted a 45 for example, the chain would be less tensioned and it wouldn't affect your gearing noticeably. Depends on how you find the gearing you have as to whether you'd want to change. Your rear sprocket looks a little bigger than 46 but hard to tell. What fuel tank have you fitted? Fibreglass, plastic, alloy?

It's not, it is too hard for someone who has just entered into trials. Even for riders who have been riding for years if they aren't up tp a certain standard. It's a national standard event and even the 'easy' course is reasonably demanding as it's not just the sections you have to deal with. There are a good number of miles that take you over moor crossings, rough tracks, bogs etc and you're riding for around 5 o 6 hours without much rest. It's impossible to give an indicator of what level you need to be at as it's difficult to 'measure' someone's ability. One option would be to find riders in your club or area that have ridden it, look at what level of rider they are and how you stack up against them if you ride the same events, see how they find the trial, look at how many marks they've lost in previous Lakes events and it should give you an idea of how hard you'd find it. It's a wonderful event but if a rider isn't good enough, they'll crash continuously, hurt themselves, damage the bike and their confidence and probably hate it.

Did it run ok with the original carb. Did it rev out ok. If yes and you refit that, does it still run ok. If yes, then it's definitely your new carb Allens are mainly motocross/enduro and have little or no experience of trials, or at least they hadn't when I bought a carb from them. The jetting in a carb for trials was and presumably still is, based upon feedback from customers, which doesn't necessarily mean it's going to be right. Mikunis are very hard to jet from scratch as they have a massive range of needle / needle jet combinations and if the mixture is wrong in that particular range it's difficult (impossible for me) to know whether its the needle that's wrong, the needle jet, or both. The original needle jet (emulsion tube) on the TY was an N-8 so you want the equivalent of that for your carb and the needle to go with it. There are several different series of VM roundslide carbs and not all use needle jets in the N-8 range - see on Allen's website, the range is mind boggling. I think the carb with the pull out choke is jetted differently from the carb with the lever choke. If you tell Allens that the original carb, Mikuni VM26SS used an N-8 and a 4V1 needle, they should be able to check you have the right combination. There are two types of needle jet / needle and they must be of the same type. If one or the other is the wrong type it won't fuel properly (don't ask how I know this...) Also, the original main jet size of the old carb won't correspond directly with the new carb as the TY would have had autolube and I think that meant a bigger main as they were around the 160 range standard - that's too big on the new carb for pre-mix. They also had a funny numbering system as they can be as high as 280 but they weren't actually that big. That's speedway dope size... You're more likely going to need around 120 / 130 for the main. Bultacos / Ossas use a 130 generally so the TY250 should be around the same, pilot around 30 / 35 and slide 3.0 So what main jet is fitted at the moment out of interest

What size main jet is in the new carb

No pictures but when I did mine it's apparent that the selectors will only fit one way as no two are the same fork diameter and unlike the 5 speed you can't fit any of them upside down losing two gears if you do...

I use a BP7ES with no problems

ok, misunderstood your last post, thought you'd been there. I have someone to do hubs, just wondering who the person you used is out of curiosity as he's near here

Does he live by a river?

Just curious as to who the person is in Birmingham as I've never heard of anyone here that does them

In Birmingham? Where?

Check the depth of the thread as well as sometimes bolts that are too short are put in and strip, but there is enough thread left for the correct length bolt

I think there were three prototypes before the actual MAR appeared, white with blue stripe, orange with white stripe (as in Sparks' picture) and then white with orange stripe but I could have the order wrong. The white with orange stripe was the '71 championship winning bike I think and the picture of Mick riding it on the beach was put onto a sticker to commemorate it.

Yes, I understand that, I've seen it done and was going to do one myself, just wasn't sure if you meant the stem only.

That's good news as I wanted to make the weight on my 250 a bit lighter. A phone call to my engineer friend I think...

Just the stem? Can't see how this helps as the yokes have the rake built in, or do you mean the entire yoke assembly from the Alpina / Pursang (only certain years work) They are parrallel as opposed to the anngled Sherpa yokes but the spacing of the forks is wider which means new spacers have to be made for the front wheel and I'm not sure how the Sherpa mudguard brace will cope with the extra width. I think the lock stops may present an issue too. I was going to try it not too long ago but didn't bother in the end as the hassle wasn't worth what would have probably been a minor and barely noticeable improvement

To save machining the clutch weight (it's supposed to be difficult as they are hardened but I'm no engineer, just what I've been told) you can fit the clutch weight from a 250 which is a single weight, not double. Also, you can fit a 250 ignition flywheel which is lighter than the 350. If you fit both, pick up will be very quick but the motor will stall a lot easier Just fitting the 250 ignition flywheel will quicken pick up but the 199a shouldn't be that lazy anyway. I think the electronic ignitions have more retardation at low revs than they really need, especially when built for a purpose made trials bike which had the right power delivery (well, most did) from the factory by engine/porting design. The bikes that benefit most from the revised advance curves are Pre65 4 strokes as they were never made as trials engines. 200cc is too much for the Bultaco forks, you'll lose travel through hydraulic affect, but it's up to you if you want to continue with it. Fantic forks only use that and they are over 2" longer, plus, look how short the Bultaco legs are. They are basically the same fork as the Ossa but the Ossa had longer legs and the most they take is 180cc. I mentioned why they may be topping in my previous post, and the affect of fitting different forks, all of which are longer.

200cc is a lot of oil for Sherpa forks, and with 20 weight it could make them very hard with limited travel, which may be the reason you're having trouble. I'm using 180cc absolute max, generally 7.5 or 10 weight and I weigh 110+kg or around 17.5 stones in old money. Put new springs in, there's a choice of In Motion's own springs, Magicals or HFS. The latter two are a more modern, progressive action, I have Magicals, a mate has HFS, both work well (this is the HFS clubman kit which doesn't have the cartridge insert. I tried one of those and nearly threw it over the wall in frustration at trying to set the pressure. Springs are all you need) The bush at the top of the damper rod has a fibre seal around it. If this has gone hard or worn it will let oil past which reduces damping effect as instead of being forced through the damper rod holes it just flows past the bush. If they are worn, replacing them will make a difference to fork action and allow thinner oil. I doubt you can buy them new, you can make new seals from PTFE card. Sherpa forks aren't quite as good as Marzocchis and although they seem identical inside to me, not quite as good as Ossa forks either, but they are more than capable of doing the job. Looking to swap to other forks is wasting your money, it's not going to make a significant difference from properly working Sherpa forks. Other forks are also longer by about 2" so you can't fit them in the Sherpa top yoke unless you lap out the shoulder inside, otherwise you need yokes too. Also be prepared to have the new legs sticking out of the top yoke by about 2" because if you don't their longer length will give you something that looks more at home in Easy Rider. The 199a is more than capable of handling today's classic trials, there's no need to start cutting the head angle or top yoke. Yes they offer an improvement if done properly, but not really necessary, it's still down to the rider holding the bars.

Life is full of injustice unfortunately, those with money are able to influence what shouldn't be influenced The loathsome Bernie Ecclestone - wipes out his charges of bribery and walks free courtesy of a nice large payment. The man he bribed was sentenced for accepting the bribe that Ecclestone orchestrated and paid.

Even when they've obviously fived the section and the crowd are still urging them on? - yes I do think it makes a difference.

Why not? All the WTC foreign regulars used to ride it years ago and some won it. Why any different now? As for no-stop rules being impossible to observe - total rubbish. There was just as much controversy, variance and incorrect observing when the rules were stop allowed but no reversing. Riders rocking back and forward when stuck, rolling backwards, and blatantly maneouvering the bike backwards against the run of the section by hopping front and back wheels sideways but in a backwards direction, were regular occurrences that went unpenalised Whether no-stop is the right decision for WTC is a different argument but don't blame the rule for poor observing decisions. They were there under stop allowed too. And people in the crowd are just as much to blame, putting observers under terrible pressure by hooting, screaming, sounding air horns and applauding riders when it's obvious they have incurred a 5. The rider presents their punch card to the observer with applause and airhorns going off - what would most people do?

Assuming they are the original spokes / nipples, as far as I know the original nipples are no longer available. So even if you managed to remove the old nipples, the spokes can't be re-used as new nipples are manufactured with a different thread, so won't fit. You need to check this first obviously, but if still the case you may as well just cut through the spokes as a complete set of spokes / nipples will be required

Did the Dellorto come ready jetted and if so from where? Have you got the needle, slide and jet sizes, as it would be interesting to compare them to those in the Dellorto on my 340