husky

I Bet,as Lowbrow said,its the seal at the slave cylinder end.its letting a minute amount of fluid through and letting the clutch engage.only shows up with the clutch disengaged for some time.When it gets worse you'll see the level in the master cylinder drop

Most competitive production bike out there,if you're good enough to benefit from one.This is based on the 300,my son and I haven't ridden the others.A friend has a 250 and really rates it.The 07/08 bikes were good,but the red frame definatly handles better,and makesthe bike feel a bit lighter too.If you ride one I think you'll want one

I clean the filter after every trial,better safe than sorry.Its worth removing the air box and taking the 2 halves apart(about 8 screws seen easily once off the bike) and seal with STIKAFLEX,which is used to bond in car windscreens.Don't know if you can get away with this,but the dish washer cleans the air box brilliantly.I change the ATF in the box every 4 trials,as the gear oil on a PRO lubes the main bearings too.Maybe overkill but an hours maintenance every week stops a lot of expensive grief.I also grease the swingarm and linkage bearings monthly which greatly slows the wear rate.Buy one and enjoy!

Try a new bolt,possibly the bolt is slightly bent from the impact

Are you sure it hasn't just sheared the flywheel key,Ithink it would run longer than 10 seconds after turning the fuel off.Had a Beta that did this when it stuck open Seems odd that full revs for 10 secs f###d 2 black boxes

Oil mixture is fine,don't buy anything until its stripped down.A piston kit is around

Sounds like the piston nipped up.Take the cylinder off and inspect the piston/rings,i think it will be obvious.Stuff some clean rag into the crankcase before you lift the cylinder right off,that way any broken bits of ring won't drop inside.If it had sheared the flywheel key it would still have compression.Unusual for it to seize this way,what oilmix ratio are you using?

Find a small engineering firm,take the pedal and the pivot bolt that screws into the frame to them,show them what you want.It's an easy job,should n't cost much

Sometimes the oil in water can be the seal on the waterpump shaft failing.Does the bike overheat and lose water through the radiator cap or overflow pipe?If not I would be looking in the waterpump area.If you're really unlucky it could be the casing eaten away by previos owners not using enough antifeeze in the water,good luck

My son is 12 stone,spring is set to 120 mm with the rear wheel off the ground and the damping adjuster 16 clicks out from fully in.He finds it excellent like this.Hope this helps

You need a bulb of the same watts as the original.The 20w bulb needs more power than the bike can generate,thats why its dim,might burn out the coils that provide the power.Do you really need a light on a trials bike?

I've ridden a 250,better steering and slightly lighter than the previous model,footrests seemed lower and further back giving a better riding position.It's definitly better than an 08 if you can afford it,I don't know the price difference between the 2

looks good in the pictures,but I wouldn't bid for it without viewing it.If it rides and sounds right its a good buy at 1150/1200,bear in mind that 5 yr old bikes ride a lot worse than new ones,there's a lot of development that you can't see,and possibly more wear that you can only judge by riding it.I would say it's the best brand to start on .Good luck

Had the same thing on an 04.Had it tig welded with stainless wire,the weld doesn't rust then.Unplug or better still remove all the electrics,high current welding can fry them.Doesn't allways happen but it's better safe than sorry with expensive black boxes

Mixture screw 1 to 2 turns out,stator in the middle of the adjusting slots.Does it die after turning the choke off?if so its probably too weak.The timing can't be far out if it starts.Try the mixture screw,out is weaker.good luck

We ride on mainly clay and chalk and find IRC the best,they still grip reasonably when worn as well.Don't know what they do on rocks because we don't have any.Some of us use VRUBBER which are cheaper and are as good but you have to run 2 psi rear as the side walls are stiffer.Don't know about the Dunlop but the first Dunlop D803 were inferior to the IRC on our ground

The early 270 rev 3 is sharper at the bottom than the later ones,i think its in the porting .Try retarding the ignition about 5mm at the stator plate.i don't think they have a head gasket,its an o ring,but putting an extra base gasket in will calm it down a bit.Repacking the silencer softens the power as well.You;ll never get it as nice as a recent one,but you can make it a lot nicer.Hope this helps

Why not enter the Bognor trials,they have some of the best venues in the area.I don't know of any legal practise ground in your area,wish I did.

Are you buying the seals from the same supplier,Iwould order some from an engineering supply company,suggest R S Components[good for bearings too].Have you measured the diameter of the legs,I had this problem on a Gasgas,one leg was 10 thou small.if you have the slightest dink in the leg the seal won't last.I clean any damage with contact cleaner,fill the mark with superglue and rub it down with 800 grade wet and dry.Hope this helps,cheers Mick

We had an expensive cyclo trials bike nicked,we put posters up round the town in shops offering

Sounds like the oil seals on top of the guides to me,its allowing oil to run down the valves into the cylinder when its parked up.Does it puff a bit when you shut off from high revs?If it was the bore or rings it would smoke all the time.contact me if you want more help

Any competent welder could tig-weld it,be as strong as new,I would expect to pay

I had mine tig welded with stainless steel filler rod,doesn't rust and blends in wel against the chrome ,you can't tell its been done and its b****y strong.I UNPLUGGED EVERY CONNECTOR,maybe its unneccesary but its safer than frying something then not knowing which part you cooked when/if it won't go,and potentially spending a lot

Check the throttle cable hasn't got snagged on something.It sounds like the throttle slide is not returning .Try disconnecting the cable from the twistgrip and starting it,it should just tickover.If there's no improvement have the carb,airbox and filter off and give them all a good clean,something is holding the slide up,Good luck

Welcome Rob,go on www.brdmcc.org/ all you need to know is on there,cheers Mick