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irishjohn

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Everything posted by irishjohn

  1. Es?I have a ‘90 MontSea 310 which I need a carb for. Can anyone tell me what size I need
  2. Thanks all. Been doing a bit of leg work to get more kick to my kick. She’s a grand bike though!
  3. Thanks for the responses. Maybe I’m to short. If I can get above the pivot point, no problem kicking through. Is there a way to position the bike to get more leverage, lean it to the left? Stand close the left side or away from it, etc etc
  4. Sold my ‘17 Montesa 4rt and bought a left over ‘19 Vertical Combat. I love this bike! So much easier to ride in all respects... except one, starting. If I have a tree to lean against or a rock to stand on where I can get up over the bike, I can start it 1st or 2nd kick. But if none of those available no way. What am I doing wrong? How do I position my body to get enough leverage to kick it over????? i tried using the side stand to support the bike while that worked, it bends the side stand.
  5. Recently acquired a 1983 CanAm 320t / Armstrong-CCM 320t, (this is a Hiro engine bike) which I hope use for twin shock events next year. I need some parts as listed below, any help locating is appreciated Front and rear brake shoes Fork seals Front and rear sprockets Engine seal kit Gasket set Air filter Clutch, front brake and throttle cables
  6. irishjohn

    4Rt Lighting Kit

    The 4rt's in the US don't come with these. I checked into ordering one from Spain, over $600 US...needless to say I didn't order it.
  7. Thanks to all. It came from a collection which was on display at the National Motorcycle Museum. It has been started but never ridden.
  8. I recently purchased a 1987 Montesa 335 and am in need of some specs and tech data Proper gas/oil ratio? Type and quantity of trans oil? Type and quantity of fork oil? Below is a photo of my new beauty
  9. Does anyone have source for foldable levers for a 2017 Montesa 4rt?
  10. Thanks for the info. It's always something...
  11. Lineaway, I was afraid of that... Mine has the red wipers. I just didn't want to pull them apart then find the seals were not available. I guess after Sunday's meet, I'll tear them down. Not heard about the water cooled cases. Was that a feature on the '95 250's?
  12. I need to replace my fork seals on my 1995 Jt25. I understand that in that year, GG used two different forks which of course require two different seals. Is there a way to determine which size seals I need without disassembling the forks? My concern is, GG parts are a little hard to come by in my neck of the woods. I am reluctant to pull the seals to measure them and then discover the ones I need are not available.
  13. Nicely done. I am fiddling with a build using a Suzuki TC100 as the base bike. Did you lengthen the swing arm? Looking forward to more reports.
  14. Thanks Reggie. FYI, I have located a source for HK1512 bearings which will replace the OEM DL1512 bearings. IBT PO Box 873065 Kansas City, MO 64187 Tel, 913-677-3151 Fax 913-677-5510 I picked up four HK1512 bearings from their local branch shop, cost $9.00 each. The HK1512 bearings are caged roller bearings unlike the OEM DL1512 bearings. Also the rollers in these bearings do not have the pointy tips which eat through the bearing case like the OEM IBT also offers the HK 1520-2rs which will work for the newer GG bikes.
  15. US supplier has no replacement bearings for rear suspension dog bones. Does anyone know if the OEM DL1512 bearings are the same size as HK1520-2rs bearings?
  16. I need to refresh the rear suspension on my '95 JT25. Besides removing the rear wheel, will I need to disconnect the rear shock from the frame and remove the swing arm to take apart the rear suspension?
  17. Recently picked up a Contact which I want to set up for trail riding. Does anyone know of a larger radiator which could be fitted or a dual fan set up to increase the cooling function?
  18. I've always had good success with "Sno-seal". You can get this at any outdoor equipment store.
  19. irishjohn

    Cold Feet!

    In the Army, we would wear plastic produce bags on our feet, next to the skin, then wool socks over those. The bags act as a vapor barrier liner, keeps the insulation layer, the wool sock, dry. Moisture is an exceptional conductor of heat away from the body. In really wet weather, we would put a second bag over the wool sock to keep them dry. Your foot will sweat a bit at first, but your body will reach a point of equilibrium where you won't notice it.
  20. Thanks Colin. I have not replaced the boot from the airbox to the carb but wouldn't imagine that is the issue since it is outside the intake. A worn slide, would that allow enough air to leak in to make it run away? Where else should I look?
  21. Ok, I followed everyone's advice, replaced crank seals, new carb to engine boot. Now it just runs away when the engine rpms get high. For example, if I am decending a hill and this causes the engine rpms to increase, when I get the bottom of the hill the engine runs wild unless I slow the rpms with the rear brake on the decent. Or if I am riding between sections and get the rpms up in 4th or 5th gear, the engine starts to run away. This makes for pretty exciting sections... At lower rpms, it runs fine. When it runs wild, the throttle opens and closes fine, no hang ups there. As before the only way to stop the run away is turn off the gas, pull the plug wire and wait for it to run out of gas. Do I need to call a priest?
  22. Totalshell, golden info. I'll give this a try tonight.
  23. Seems to be getting gas so I don't think it is fuel starvation. I will check the manifold for cracks and the gasket. If it is the manifold, would this cause the problem to be itermitent?
  24. I finally have the restoration done on my '76 KT 250. Got it started and finally found the right combination of carb settings so it will idel smoothly. However, without any warning the engine starts running wide open. The only way I can make it stop is pull the spark plug and cut off the gas. It does it at irregular intervals, when it is restarted it runs fine for a while then goes wild. Needless to say, this makes it difficult to ride sections. I have checked the following, throttle cable- no kinks, no burrs, it does not drag or bind; throttle assem.- it works fine does not stick, opens and closes easily; slide moves freely in the carb body and when it runs wild the throttle open and closes as normal. I have a suspicion that I may have a bad crank seal on the clutch side as the oil level in the case seems to drop mysteriouly, there are no oil leaks from the cases. Would or could this also cause the wild running of the engine?
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