belldane

This is my second posting on the above bike and although not trials related, the answers I received last time were helpful. Since then my grandson has been asking when the bike will be ready for him to ride! It goes at the moment but I need to fit the kill switch and I am not perfectly sure how to wire it. All the bikes I own run on points and the Suzuki has CDI. With points it is not a problem to rig up a switch because there is only one wire going to the coil. On the Suzuki there are two wires into the coil from the CDI. One is black with a white strip, the other white with a blue strip. I could try cutting either of the wires and fitting the switch but I am concerned that if I fit it to the wrong one I may damage the CDI. There are no lights or battery on the bike and everything has been bypassed from the magneto to CDI and coil. Any ideas much appreciated

Thank you very much for that mate.

Would anyone happen to know the standard jet sizes and needle position for a TY250a, please? The bike has the standard TK carb on it. Thanks

Thank you all for your help. The problem turned out to be a bit of lint in the innards below the pilot jet. The previous owner had done an amazing job of polishing the Amal but had obviously forgotten about plugging up all those little holes before hitting the carb with the buffing wheel! It starts first or second kick now and it is great to ride. I would post a photo if I knew how to. I have looked at the procedure for doing so and you almost need to have a pilot's licence!! Thanks again. Those Mikuni settings I got will come in useful as I have another 348 under the house waiting to be looked at which came without the carb.

Thanks for that. I can get a VM26 from the Estates for a good price. Is there a difference between the VM26S and the VM26? Also what is Spec T/V? Thanks again for the info. Very helpful

Thanks for that. Took the Amal out today and replaced it with the old Mikuni. The smoke has gone, however the jetting is all haywire. Do you happen to know if Amal and Mikuni pilot and main jet numbers correspond with one another? (ie if the Amal main jet is a 150, will the Mikuni 150 be the same) Today has convinced me that the Amal has something terribly wrong with it. The float level appears to be ok so is the needle and seat. I have heard of some poor casting on Amals which over a period of time can make them go haywire. I think there is some other problem in its innards. Anyway it's a start. Any idea where I can buy a jetted Mikuni for a 348?

Hope someone out there can give me some clues about my 348. The bike has always been hard to start from cold. It is running the standard Amal monoblock carb which was recently resleeved etc etc. Once the bike warms up it is fine although the amount of smoke it produces is embarrasing. (exhaust and muffler were hit with an oxy to burn all rubbish out) Fuel consumption is terrible. I went for a short ride today around the property and ran out of fuel coming back home. I put in just over 2 litres of fuel before heading off and would not have done more than 5 kilometres riding. There are no fuel leaks anywhere. It still has plenty of power but the above problems are driving me to drink (more). I really think that the carby is not working like it should but for the life of me I can't put my finger on the problem. All jetting is standard, although I have tried different sizes all to no avail. I changed the carby to an old Mikuni I had lying around and after a few kicks it started with not as much smoke but when I took it for a ride everything else was pear shaped. Any ideas what the problem could be please? I really am running out of ideas. Has anyone replaced the Amal on a 348 with something else? I would like to hear how the conversion went. I can tell you that at moment it is not only the Monty fuming!!!!

Hi Nige I can't think of any place where you are going to find the English version. But if it helps, I often refer to the Todotrial site for info on the 348. Let me know what you you want to know and I will tell you as I can speak and understand Spanish fluently. See ya

Thanks Martin I sent an Email off to Bob Wright after I got an answer from you but no reply so far. He must be off in Italy again I guess! Thanks again

Hello people, This one might test the old dinosours (like me) out there. I have bought the above mentioned Gilera and was told it is about a 70-72 model trial/trail (I really don't know much about them). It has a four stroke motor, lights, electrics etc and I am wondering if anyone has any idea where spares can be obtained. I will try to post some photos once this camera of mine recharges its batteries, Thanks

Thank you people All is honky dory. Apart from replacing crankshaft bearings, seals and other bits and pieces, everything else is fine. Thanks for your help

Hi I was going to suggest a site to get the Clymer Manual but for copyright problems it is no longer accessible. Apart from the things Vintage Cota has suggested you may also want to try taking the shifter detent bolt (left hand side towards the back of engine) out to see if the spring has been stretched at some stage to make gears not slip out. There is a spring and a small ball bearing which can be taken out with a magnet. Decrease the amount of tension on the spring and see how it goes. It is a long shot but may be worth a try. Failing that do as the old fella says. I have owned a couple of 172's and some problems appeared to be broken kick starter shafts and then broken side case where the starter shaft stopper hit the case, so if you come accross any 172 motors that are still intact, buy them. I have a bottom end here under the house which was fine until I broke the side case. Hope this helps. See ya

Geez Was the bike used as an anchor at some stage? Try Jared Bates at www.southwestmontesa.com or www.bultacouk.com for that little end shaft. I am sure one or the other can help. Good luck with the project. Let me know how you get on. If you have no luck I have a few shafts here from Montys I have fiddled with over the years which are the same size and although not new they will still do the job (and not rusted like yours) See ya

Hi mate Your problems are less likely to be than when you try to get that bloody primary gear off. I wish you lots of luck and patience. Get a couple of your mates, a slab of beer, an oxy torch, a good quality puller, and let everyone have a go at removing it. Failing that take the motor to your motorbike mechanic to get it off and then sit down, drink the rest of the beer, if there is any left, and then think about the original problem.

Hi Split the cases and in process of replacing bits and pieces. In the meantime I would like to send photos of the other bikes I have restored but have never posted any before. Can someone tell what to do please? Thanks

Geez Sooty If I had the motor in front of me now I could tell you exactly what to do about the kick starter. If it helps, go to southwestmontesa.com.au and have a look at the repair manual. It covers Montys from the late 60's to mid 70's, you can download it for free. It covers the motor, gearbox, electrics and everything else. If you still have trouble let me know and I will try to help.

Don't bother with those paper gaskets. Once you have the side cover off, clean the mating surfarces on both the cover and the engine with petrol. Let it dry and apply a thin film of good automotive silastic and tighten the cover. I have been using this method for years and none of my Montesas leak oil.

Thanks for that. I knew that I had to split the cases to see what was going on but I have so many projects going on that I can hardly scratch myself. Anyway the other day I decided to do it and found that the bearing on the magneto side was absolutely stuffed. The water had leaked through the seal (the side that the bike leans to when on the stand) and ruined the bearing. The other side appears to be fine but while I have it all apart, for the sake of a few bucks, I will replace all bearings etc. I will post photos when finished. Thanks for the advice.

Put a new plug and condenser in. If still no spark I would check that the kill button is working like it should be. If that is Ok and provided that no wires are rubbing on anything and earthing the current, I would say your coil is stuffed and needs to be replaced.

Hi Got an old 247 for a song the other day ($20 Australian) except the motor had seized. Started pulling things down to get to the problem and found that the twit I bought it from must have gone into deep water, filled the crankcase with the stuff and just left it after it would not start. There is rust in the crankcase chamber and have managed to get the motor turning albeit tightly. I know the proper thing to do is to split the cases, replace bearings etc etc. but before I do that can anyone suggest how I might be able to flush all the rubbish out and getting it turning a bit lighter? If I can do this I will try to start it and see what happens. Any help much appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks Dave I will give it a try tomorrow.

Hi all Mu query is not related to a trials bike but I am sure someone out there can help. I have just bought an old 82 model TS 185 to get my young grandson used to riding bikes. The clutch is slipping and needs to be replaced. My problem is that I have undone all screws holding the cover on but it won't budge!!! Something else is preventing me from removing it. Any ideas?? I am sure one of you people have pulled one of these bikes apart before. Any help much appreciated. Thanks

Good info you have received here. However, if the 348 still does not run properly it is because the slide and the bore are worn out. They were made from the same material and their working life was not very long, You will need to have both parts recoed like I did on my 348 and the difference in amazing. If you live in Australia let me know as I have contact details for the bloke that did my carb.

Dave is correct. Engine size is 173cc. Engine numbers started with 29M.

Has the wife been putting sugar into the the tank to keep you at home more often??????