belldane

My feeling is the same as the others. Don't waste time and just ride with what you have.

In the UK Bultaco in Motion In the US Southwestmontesa or Rockymountains Montesa

That dial gauge is not going to work because it has to be fixed to the head to give an accurate reading. Have a look at the link from B40RT. If the points don't start to open at exactly 1.8 mmm, you can compensate by setting the points between 15 and 17 thou and that may do the trick. I have found that it makes very little difference. If you can't get the points to start opening between those settings you will have to rotate the stator plate and that is held on by 3 screws but I very much doubt you will have to do that as that stator is held pretty firmly and is not likely to have moved since the bike was running OK.

That small woodruff key I mentioned earlier is the alignment point. The key sits on the crankshaft and the flywheel has a cutout which fits into that key. Best way to do your timing is to rotate the flywheel until the cam is at its highest and the points have opened and adjust them to 16 thou. You are going to need a dial gauge screwed into the spark plug hole for the next bit. Rotate the flywheel slowly clockwise and keep an eye on the dial. As the piston is on the compression stroke and nearing the top, at 1.8 mm BTDC, the points should be starting to open. Hope that helps.

Sad to tell you, no timing marks on the flywheel and it is really going to be a case of eliminating the problem. Could be a number of things. Condenser like someone has suggested, timing, points, spark plug, coil and even the plug cap? Who knows?? The carb is ruled out because you have no spark so it has to be electrical. I have all the bits and pieces here to find where the problem lies. Only problem I am about over 15000 Kilometres from where you are ! That coil name sounds like some sort of Chinese crap. Have it tested by an electrician and if it is not that get on to the other things I have mentioned. Those 348 motors were really simple to work on and easily fixed and it is really going to be replacing bits until it is going again. Good luck

There is a tiny woodruff key to line up the flywheel and sometimes they shear and can create the problems you are having by putting the timing out. In any case you are going to need a puller to get the flywheel off. Timing is 1.8 mm btdc and points are set at 16 thou. See how you go

Keychance. Yep. Allan Graham, 145 Jenkins Street, Douglas Park, NSW, 2569. Phone 02 4632 7202. Mate I really hope he is still kicking because he did a great job on my carb. See Ya

Plain old silastic mate. A good blob, let it dry and it will never come off.

Yeah Woody forgot about that. The ones sent down under were all fiber glass

Make of oil does not seem to make much difference in my bikes. I run SAE 10W -30 in the clutch (200cc) and SAE 90 in the gearbox (300cc)

I had the same problem with my 348 except mine was porous and it leaked. After spending hours on it fiber glassing it, getting the shape right and then painting it the thing still leaked. For some reason ordinary fiber glass just does not the job. In the end I took the tank and had it repaired at a boat shop. They use a special kind of fiber glass and epoxy to repair fiber glass fuel tanks in boats which is not affected by petrol. It has not leaked since. For the paint I just used a good undercoat and acrylic paint to finish it off. Hope that helps

The Amal MK2 concentric was the standard carb for the bike and they do wear out in the slide area because both the slide and the material it slides in where made of the same material. I had my carb re-sleeved with a harder material than the slide, put in a new slide and the problem was solved. All up around 70 dollars Australian which was cheaper than to buy a new carb or fiddle about trying to make a replacement carb work properly.

Just to put in my two bobs worth in, I reckon go Montesa. I have two 247's and two 348's as well as a Ty250. The Monty's, to me seem to handle so much better and that is probably because I don't ride the Ty that often. I find the Montesas lighter than the Ty and more responsive. My suggestion is try all the brands out before you buy and whichever you feel right with, go for it.

Hi Andy If you are going to weld that primary gear I suggest that you make sure all six gears engage correctly and put new crankshaft seals before you do anything. To split the cases at a later stage will be an angle grinder job and you will need a new crankshaft. By the way the best of luck with getting the primary gear off. It can be a real *******. Manuel

Hi Andy. On reflection I may have been a bit harsh on the bloke that sold you the bike as he may have also bought it with the problems you are having at the moment. If that is the case and the gentleman accesses this forum, please accept my apologies. Thanks. Let me know if I can be of any help. See ya Manuel

Yes, the bike would run without that flywheel but it is the flywheel that gives the motor the torque and I really have no idea how the bike would perform without it. You have another problem, though. At the end of the crankshaft there is a big nut that holds the flywheel in place and stops the primary gear from coming out. The primary gear is on a tapered shaft, that is no woodruff key to stop it from spinning loose when things are going on in there. So, sorry but no cigar. You would have to do a blotchy job and weld the gear onto the shaft but I would not recommend it as there are no guarantees how the bike will run without the flywheel. The gentleman you bought it off says it stopped !! Bloody oath it would stopped quick smart and I reckon he knew what the problem was other wise where has the flywheel gone ? Which country are you in. I might be able to give some some leads to source another motor. Your other option is to take the bike back to the gentleman and tell him to stick it you know where and get your money back . See ya Manuel

Hi there. Just let me say that your little project has turned into a big one. What has happened is that the end of the crankshaft has snapped causing all sorts of untold damage in there without looking at it closer. At the end of that shaft there is a small flywheel attached to it and when the shaft broke the flywheel has continued to spin inside the case causing that big round scrape inside the case. I hope you got the bike cheap !! and obviously who ever sold it to you must have pulled the cover off and removed the broken bits before putting it back together and selling it either wise the motor would have probably not turned over. For a start you are up for a new or second hand crankshaft, another flywheel, most probably new cases and when you split those cases there could be damage to the gears as that motor appears to have been traveling at quite a few revs when the shaft broke and everything would have probably suddenly stopped. My suggestion to you is to find another motor, try to salvage as many parts as you can from your existing motor and rebuild one out of the two. Not really good news but I hope it helps. See ya

No worries mate. The quality control Montesa had for their Manuals was shocking. Sometimes they can be like trying to follow assembly instructions for a BBQ built in China !!

The lousy Spanish manual you refer to is correct. 190cc's each leg. It really depends on what grade oil you put in there and the sort of riding you are doing. There are various grades of fork oil available but in the end it is up to you.

To tell you the truth I am no Bultaco expert but I do have 3 Montesas fitted with the Mk2 Amals and they all have the bigger floats in them. No problem so far even though I don't ride the bikes often enough. They can sit idle for months and after a few kicks off they go. I have never heard of the smaller floats on Mk 2's but then again like I said I really don't know that much about Bulty's.

It sounds like the needle is sticking for some reason. Put a new one in and see how that goes. Also check the seat that the needle goes into as there could be a bit of rubbish in there causing it to stick.

Hi Try southwestmontesa.com or bultacoinmotion.uk. There is another bloke in the States that goes by the name of rocky mountains montesa or something similar. If they don't have the bits, they may know where you can get them. Adios Manuel