mrkartoom

I found the same thing on the used 2003 Rev3 I purchased recently and had to replace the cover. I was told to check for it as it is very common problem with the magnesium. I found it just in time before it ate its way into the engine cavity. To my surprise the worst of it was behind the impeller. It's an easy fix with the new cover and you'll know what needs replacing once you remove it. Mine looked worse than yours and I only needed to replace the seal behind the impeller in addition to the cover. When you replace it stay away from glycol based coolants. I was told a couple brands to use and ended up going with Silkolene ProCool. Also if the bike goes into storage for a long period of time drain it to be safe.

Get yourself one of those exhaust plugs for or stuff a rag in there when washing the bike.

I did a bit of research recently when looking for a new silencer and was told you have to buy the whole unit, at least here in the USA. The parts catalog shows no separate part numbers for the bits, but maybe shops over there have access to them. Not sure how the packing blew out as it usually just spooges up, unless the tube was off somehow. Also not sure how it would get so hot to melt the end cap, unless the packing or something restricted flow and created more heat. I'd think the performance or sound would have alerted you if that were the case, so I'm just guessing.

You need to change the inner oil seals too, which are the issue for you. You should always put in new dust caps as well, so it's good you have them already. You need to take the fork apart as shown in that Sherco .pdf to get the seal out. You need something to drive the new seals in without marring them or the forks up. You can easily make your own driver out of a piece of pvc (plastic pipe) the right diameter, which I think is all the RYP unit is. Just make sure it fits over the seal good and down into the fork bottom to drive it in. Also make sure you tape up the fork top and oil the seal when sliding it on so you don't tear them. Good luck. p.s. Beta US delivers a good video on this and other maintenance tips. Not sure if Beta UK has one as well, but that would be good to have and a dealer should know.

From what I have heard, which is like the setup of any bike, the front and rear should compress evenly when you hop up and down. I've also heard the 1/3 of the travel when loaded and test both ends for balance by pressing down on the center of the bike and check. If you get it at 1/3 travel and can jump up and down and make it bottom then likely stiffer springs are needed.

Yep could be a lot of things. First thing I'd do on a bike that has been "standing still in someone's shed" for a long time would be to assume the carb is gummed up. I'd pull the carb and make sure all the circuits are clean. If the owner says it was running fine before parking I'd say there is your problem. If he left gas in it that stuff turns to varnish after a few weeks or months. That's easy to clean out and something you should do anyway to be sure. I'd also start with a new plug and make sure it's the right heat range. I've got a 2003 250 and it runs good with a NGK BP7ES. Lampkins recommends a BP5ES and I'm not sure why. Maybe it's the fuel over there. I tried one it's too hot and I and get a lot of pre-detonation, but I'm not running race gas. Finally, dump all the old gas if you haven't already and put in new fuel mix, clean the carb, replace the plug, give it another go. Good luck.

My fan is fixed. Turned out to be the regulator. Every component tested good on the bench or on the bike, so I decided to take some advice and try the regulator. I was told that 99% of the time if the temp switch is good then it's the regulator, so I got a new one. Even though it tested with identical results to the new one on the bench it was bad.

I did a diode test yesterday on the reg/rec "box" and it seems to have passed. Measuring between each DC output and both AC inputs I get open or .5v between all of them, depending on forward or reverse bias. I also confirmed that without the simulated closure from the temp switch everything read open. I'm thinking my "box" is fine and it must be something else. So far I've proven the regulator/rectifier tests good, the fan is good, the temp switch is good, and all the wiring tests out. All that leaves is the stator coil. Anyone know how to check it? I thought these things primarily failed on the ignition. I am reading .7ohms between the yellow wire and the frame. Not sure yet if that is a good reading or it should be open. Anyone know?

You'd need to know offset, fork dimensions, yoke size, clamp height, etc. If they are all 38mm forks then that part would fit, but too many other factors to consider. Maybe a dealer would know if no one has tried it, or be able to examine them side by side.

That's what I've been told. This is my first ever trials bike. I bought it as an '03 and then people started noticing it had '04 plastic. I think '03's were gray/yellow? I like the red better.

Thanks for the tip. I wish it was something that simple, but mine is wired straight to the regulator. All the lighting bits and wiring were gone from the bike when I got it. Not sure why everyone in the US strips the lighting off or if it comes over here that way, but it seems pretty common.I think I have it isolated to a bad regulator. I ran the bike today and measured the voltage going to the fan from the regulator. My voltmeter sees 20-25vdc depending on rpms. That seems way too high. It stays at 20-25vdc with or without the closed contacts coming from the temperature switch, so I'm thinking its toasted. I assume the voltage is too high for the fan motor to work or else it would be running all the time. Doesn't seem to have cooked the fan so I'm lucky there. Going to order a new regulator. Did I mention what a PITA this bike is to work on? I had to drain the coolant, remove the header, and remove the radiator four times today to do my testing. Whoever stuffed all the wiring bits up into that little cavity in the frame is one cruel and heartless dude!

I'm thinking I may have a problem with my radiator fan and wondering if anyone can verify my testing procedure. I noticed it hasn't kicked on since I got the bike put back together. Actually the bike is new to me and I'm not sure it worked before. It's been hot here and I have been plonking around in the back yard with it, so I'd think it would have come one. I assumed I either have a bad temp switch or the fan is bad, so I started testing by starting the bike and shorting the leads (2 blue wires) from the temp switch, but the fan didn't start up. Next I wired the fan directly to 12vdc and it ran fine, so I know the fan is good. I see the blue leads from the temp switch run into a black box (12v adjuster), which I assume senses the short from the temp switch and then powers the fan by switching ground or voltage or both. I now assume I either have a bad wire connection or this 12v adjuster box is bad. Am I on the right track here? Any other tests I should be doing to isolate the problem? Thanks for any info.

Here's some pics of the mounts. The added height is welcomed for me.

Not yet, but I'll probably stick them on this weekend. I did hold them up for a "visual" fit and I foresee no problems. I'll post back after I install them.

I just picked up a set of these ProTaper universal clamps to run the fatbars. I was going to go with the S3 clamps, but these list for only $39.95 and can be had for even less. If you don't mind the rise these are the cheapest way I've seen to switch to fatbars.

Nice job on the holder Dan. You obviously have no need now, but I have a Kawasaki adjustable flywheel holder that works on many flywheels. Not sure if they still offer them, but it was low cost and great quality.

I'll be sure to go with them when replacing mine. I assume they are cheaper than the stock units anyway.

+1 Yes this is good info. I've filed down the grooves in the baskets to fix dragging and sticking many times, but never the edges on the plates. I've actually never seen plates this crudely finished before needing to have it done. I still have mine apart right now and it looks like the basket has done a good job polishing for me, but the non-load sides are as ugly as the ones in your pics. This must be stock plates in mine. You know if the aftermarket ones like Surflex are better finished?

Not sure about the shifting, which could be something within the transmission unrelated to the clutch. The rattling is the clutch plates, which you have now allowed to free up and separate when the clutch is disengaged. Some bikes are louder than others with this and I'm not totally sure why, but it could be related to tolerances. I use to love listening to the dry-clutch on my Ducati-powered Cagiva. That was a serious rattle, but totally normal.

Thanks. I didn't realize that was their site.

Does Lampkin's have a website? I can't seem to find one for them and wondering if they would be another good source for parts. Seems I can get stuff much cheaper on your side of the pond.

Looks like just over an inch. . . 30mm or so. Not so bad if you're taller and cramped a bit like me. Not sure how you'd mill out the stock clamps with the little meat on the top pieces. I'd have to look at them again, but maybe you guys already have.

The bottom half of the Rev3 bar clamps are actually part of the top triple clamp casting itself. The bottom plate of the S3 adapters screws into them. The S3 clamps (regular or oversize) are attached to the bottom plate. If you look closely at the pic you'll see 3 pieces in the kit and that the bottom plate is actually machined to fit down into the stock clamp where the bar would be. Just need to toss the top half of your stock clamps in the bin and bolt these puppies on.

Sticking plates is a common cause of this, which can be caused by warped drive plates or a severely notched basket. Either one of those scenarios mess with disengagement and keep the plates from separating and spinning freely. Also oil glazing on the friction plates gets sticky and causes the plates to bind together. Lay the bike on its side, pull the cover and remove the plates to check them out. Inspect the surface of the fiber plates and if you have a good flat surface (thick piece of glass or mirror works well) you can check the drive plates for warping. Also look for notching on the outer basket tangs. If notched they can be filed down to get smoother action and a bit more life, but they will notch quicker so you'll eventually need a new outer basket.You could also have shifter dog or gear teeth issues, which are obviously harder to get at and inspect. Easy to pull the clutch cover and have a look. Good luck.

I'm planning to get a set of these for mine soon. S3 Adjustable Handlebar Clamps These will give a bit of rise, which I need. Someone makes one similar but with a bit less rise, but I forget where I saw them.