eddie1

Enjoyed that . Thanks

Glad you are sorted now.

1 Idea Check the floats in case they have fuel in them. This has the effect of drowning the bike but gets better as you open the throttle and let more air in. Also loads of standard stuff like air filter, spark plug etc. Mine started to be a bitch to start before eventually finding a .8 plug gap which should have been my first check. Keep going the answer is there somewhere.

I'll add my experience as it ,may help you. To cut it short it was wear in the slave/master cylinder seal. When I changed the rear suspension bearings I kept the whole rear brake system complete as I had had trouble in the past trying to bleed the system. A couple of rides later I lost all rear brake. I checked for leaks and found none so suspected that air must have got in the system even though it had not been apart. I started by disconnecting the brake rod to make sure that the piston was not restricted. Used a syringe to push fluid first from the res pipe through to the caliper bleed nipple. NOK Again used the syringe to push fluid from the bleed nipple back to the res. NOK Pumping the lever gave nothing and I also noted no fluid flow. I had previously bought a master cylinder repair kit for another bike only to find it was a bleed problem so was reluctant to go down the same route. I lifted the rear wheel up above the handle bars and tried again syringing fluid from the res first and the bleed nipple next thinking I had got some pedal only to find it disappear after two pumps. By accident I pushed fluid through from the bleed nipple with the cap still on the res and found there was a slight brake right at the bottom of the pedal stroke. Thinking it would get better I took it for a bit of a practice. It didn't get any better or worse and was not quite enough to lock the wheel on a steep hill. By now I had ordered a master cylinder repair kit but carried on trying to bleed it in the mean time. Looking at the system I suspected that a possible place for air to get trapped was at the cylinder where fluid entered lower than the banjo bolt. I thought I was on to something when I unfastened the cylinder from the frame and turned it upside down before bleeding. Again I had something only to lose it after a couple of pedal strokes. Next day the repair kit turned up. I fitted the kit, pushed fluid from the caliper to the banjo bolt,filled the cylinder as best I could, connected the res, pushed fluid from the bleed nipple to the res with the cylinder upside down. Bingo Job done best rear brake I have had since I bough the bike. good luck

I have done this job fairly recently on my 2002 pro. There is a spacer that fits onto the splined output shaft. With this spacer removed it gives plenty of room to get a small screw driver behind the seal and carefully pry it out. The two o rings fit behind this spacer so when you take it out note which way they fit as one o ring is bigger than the other. The Spacer also has a chamfered inner edge on the one side that the o rings seal against so again note which way around it goes. Good luck

I will try to take a photo later but it is simple. You screw a 428 chain end plate to the hole in the clutch arm that the cable nipple fitted into. You then fit the cable and nipple into the other end of the chain end plate. It increases the leverage of the arm by the length of the chain plate and makes it slightly lighter. Worth trying as it costs FA If all is well with the clutch and cable it is fairly light although heavier than a modern hydraulic one.

it's approx 1.5 liters. an amazing amount for a gearbox so keep going.

Check you have a strong spark at the plug. Check the wiring. If you have had the engine out then it would have all been apart. Perhaps a couple of wires are cross connected or shorting out. Disconnect the kill switch to start. After a recent rebuild I had connected two spade connectors the wrong way around in my rush to get it up and running, No reason why I should do that other than it was late at night. On the fuel side if this is ok the plug should be getting wet, With the plug out you should also be able to look down the plug hole with a strong torch as see the gasses swirling as the kickstart is operated. If you have a spark and fuel then you are left with compression and timing. Timing should be bang on if the key is right on the flywheel? Good luck

Thanks. I've heard they are very good and just wanted to see how much different they are to the standard type

Thanks that will be great

If you have not fitted it yet could you please take a photo of it please. One from the front and one from the back would be great. I have also heard they are good and just want to see how they work. Thanks

Great Video

Not in Scotland but I can certainly recommend these. Their price includes collection and delivery anywhere on the UK mainland. They did a great job on some very badly corroded Fantic forks for me. Better than new. http://www.pittedforks.co.uk/

Not local but depending on where you are in the midlands some of the llangollen club events may be within easy reach. They really are well set up for the Osets with a good spread of routes for abilities and age. http://www.lldmcc.co.uk/Frameset1.htm Loads of Photos on facebook. https://www.facebook.com/LlangollenDistrictMotorcycleClub?fref=ts

Really good video. Sums me up really

There all still there http://www.trialspartsusa.com/youtube.html correction they are there but no access. What a massive loss it will be if access is permenantly pulled on them.

Have you sent your application off or are you just thinking that you need a nova1. If DVLA are requesting HMRC clearance for a 1950s AJS then I count myself very lucky. If you have not sent the application off I would just fill in the form together with MOT. insurance etc. and importantly a dating letter with frame and engine no. from a recognised expert. My thoughts were that without the dating cert the vehicle details could appear vague. Good luck.

Is this a form from HMRC if so no. The guides are a bit ambiguous on this but probably applies when you are actually importing new or used vehicles and registering them for the road. Hence it states that HMRC must be contacted within 14 days of import This part initially put me off but I concluded it was not relevant to my application. It seems so, The main problem with registering an old bike like the Fantic is that it may well have been registered before and that then would create a problem with regard to ownership.

Requested a V55/5 from DVLA using their online site MOT'd the bike on the frame number Insured the bike on the frame number - Carol Nash do this but my insurance, just motorcycleswhich is part of Carol Nash, allowed me to add it as an additional vehicle to my multibike policy. Requested and received a dating letter from Bill Pye. I really think that this is a big help to getting it through DVLA. As they accept it as proof of what the bike is and what age it is. I then filled in the V55/5 form as well as I could. many of the questions are irrelevant as it does not need type approval being a trials bike Sent all of this together with a copy of my driving licence, paper and plastic card, first reg payment of £55 and roadfund licence for over 150cc of £37. With it being a 156cc I was really miffed with that one as it would have been £17 I posted it Monday and got the V5 Friday. although they say this can take up to 6 weeks. Still waiting for tax disc and MOT, insurace cert to come back which is surprising as I was expecting these first but I am sure they will arrive soon. Hope I have explained it clearly enough. It was a lot more straight forward than I thought.

Got up early of night shift and went for a couple of hours practice/riding on my 200. Came home to find that the vehicle reg document I applied for on Monday had arrived in the post. Even got an age related plate. A big thanks to Bill Pye for age document.

Hopefully someone will have the answer to this. I suspect the problem is somewhere on the pilot jet mixture screw. Have you got the right slide for your bike in the carb and are you sure there is no air leak in the manifolds. One other thing is if the silencer is blocked/choked up it really strangles the bike at low revs. I would have thoughit would have been more noticable at high revs but it was not the case with mine. An easy check for this is just to disconnect the rear box or at least unseal te joint between the expansion pipe and silencer. I rebuilt a 200 rearkicker which ran great but I could not get it to stop bogging down when rolling the throttle back on from tickover. I tried a few different jets etc. but in the end just bought a new dellorto carb set up to Fantic standard jets and slide. End of problem bike runs great. A new 25mm carb can be bought cheap off ebay but as far as I could see they have all the wrong jest and slide. I bought mine from dellorto uk but noticed that Inmotion will set the carb up to your spec as well and were a few quid cheaper. Good luck

I have a 2002 Pro and had similar problems with the clutch. After doing lots of different things this is what I now do if I have not ridden the bike for a week or two. I take the master cylinder top off. Flick the clutch lever very quickly but shorts strokes alternating with slow long strokes. Sure enough some air bubbles start to rise up. After these clear the clutch lever stroke feels normal I refit the cap and the bike is good to go. The system does not leak any fluid and all joints are tight so why it should need this bleed after being standing I don't know. Note I do this even whenever I bleed the system, even if I have pushed fluid up from the bleed nipple on the case and get an excellent clutch. Best bit is it is free.

About half way down the page in the link is a link to 3 videos showing how to repair the clutch on TXT Pro bikes. When I first got my 2002-280 my forearms were buldging after a few minutes riding. I went for a new clutch pack and had a lovely 1 finger light clutch. I could also have tried different thickness steel plates but the new clutch pack put it right in spec. The videos are a fantastic resource showing how to do most jobs. http://www.trialspartsusa.com/youtube.html

Great stuff. They are great bikes well worth the effort I am so pleased with mine.