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About windwelder

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  1. A good way to understand the whole sidecar thing is to bolt one to that matchless, just think you wouldn’t need a side stand.
  2. Hi Turbo, i too have had the exact same problem with my cub, Pete Kirby clutch and a clutch lightening kit from Armac's arch enemy! i too had a too light clutch action, so much so that it would not pull the clutch lever away from the handle bar. Even when using the inner most of the adjusting holes on the arm. i resolved the issue by re routing the cable to the right hand side of the cylinder, making a new anchor point for the end of the outer ( see a Honda single engine for inspiration) and using the inner most of the lightening holes in the arm to actuate the clutch. It works, and the clutch cable has a much smoother run.. cheers Trev.
  3. The engine is as simple as it is possible to get an ohv single cylinder engine. Get a Haynes manual for a cb125 and off you go. There isn't too much you can really do to them. Make sure the cam bearing faces are 100%. rear suspension has to be a set of either rock shocks or falcons. front suspension is really use a set of TLR forks, wheel yokes etc. I fitted a set of marzzochi forks and wheel from a 300 fantic. But it was a load of hassle getting it to handle as good as the reflex geometry.( with cut frame.) I always use Talon engineering to build my wheels, and either use Talons own rims or excel rims. There are a few different after market exhausts for sale, I preferred the "Delkelvic" but it's down to personal taste as much as performance. get hold of a TLR sump guard as the steel reflex one is rubbish. as to handlebars I prefer fat bars but others like conventional braced bars. The reflex and TLR both have the clamps quite a long way behind the fork legs. I converted my yokes to a more modern position. It's not simple but it is possible. If you want to go down that route I can tell you how I did it or I can do it for you. Cheers Trev.
  4. Hi, Had the same issue with my cub, it too had a distributor. As has been posted before machine a push fit bung or better still a breather. The engineer in me wants to clamp it using the original distributor clamp but as the welder in me has already welded the hole up in the outer case, that is unlikely to happen now! Cheers Trev.
  5. I'm having similar issues with a Honda TLR, lts got 35mm marzzochi forks in at present but was getting strange steering issues when using Fantic yokes I have hopefully resolved it with hybrid parallel yokes honda offset from steering stem centre to fork tube centre but Fantic fork tube spacing. How are you measuring trail? It's a strange measurement just about everything affects it except the colour of your underpants. If I'm about to teach you to suck eggs ignore the next bit! It is measured by projecting the centreline of the steering head to the floor. ( flat and level ). Then project a vertical line through your front spindle again to the ground. The difference between the two lines on the floor is your trail measurement. A common mistake to make is to use the centre of the fork leg. The fork leg is almost always in front of the steering head and on production yokes not even parallel to it.
  6. Make sure there is a little slack in the throttle cable,
  7. It will depend on the year too. The first 4rt had the same yokes as the later 315 monts. They are all 7/8 bars. They are much thicker where the steering stem comes through the yoke. I have converted these to take fat bars but you need motox clamps and to be handy with a TIG welder and a milling machine. The later yokes are all fitted with fat bars, and are much thinner in the steering stem area. But to my mind the bars are mounted too far back. These are much easier to convert by using renthal bolt on fatbar clamps, you can move the bars much further forward. You still need to have a TIG Welder and a milling machine.
  8. S3 do an adjustable top yoke, V-mar in America do one
  9. Ah but you should not use silicon bronze on a frame, Nickel bronze is what it should be especially 531 or T45. We used to mig weld T45 tubes, we did use special wire but it's plenty strong enough, strong enough for a Vauxhall British touring car roll cage. And we never heat treated the welds after. And they took some serious crash damage a time or two. The heat effected zone (HEZ ). Was kept small by almost pulsing the weld and letting it cool for a fraction of a second between pulses. It made the welds look almost like the stack of coins look that everyone wants with bronze welding. I'd have no qualms about Mig or Tig welding T45 or any other chromemoly tubing.
  10. Hi I converted mine, Cut or mill off the clamps, weld up the holes and machine it flat and tap them to take renthal fat bar clamps or S3s excellent adjustable clamps.
  11. Hi the best advice I was given with my first 4rt was ride it for a year before you really judge it. They were bang on too. As has been said big master cylinder on clutch. Mitani clutch plates if you can get hold of a set. Don't be afraid of big gears either it helps find grip! The best thing and the worst thing on a 4rt is the fuel injection! It is always spot on. BUT the first power stroke is sometimes just too fierce and brakes traction a mappable throttle body can help calm the initial surge down but it will come with time on the footrests. Just enjoy it for what it is. A cracking bike.
  12. I might be interested, depending on cost of course!
  13. Hi, I'm running a sump guard from mitani it's got banyeres etched into it but it's a Mitani one and I am very pleased with it.
  14. Hi, The best thing I have found is get it metal sprayed with Molten aluminium, then spray it with high temp exhaust paint lasts for years!
  15. Hi, You could try soaking them in coke, it destroys aluminium! But will also dissolve the rim. Hope that helps.
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