zippy Posted October 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 copemech Posted Yesterday, 06:46 PM Zipper, You need to shock it. Hey don't just give half the info.. 110 V? 220 V? 440 V? Single phase? Three phase? Which one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barrybaines Posted October 24, 2007 Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 Think he means get it real hot then chuck loads of cold water on it but I would check that first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted October 24, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2007 barrybaines Posted Today, 11:21 AM Think he means get it real hot then chuck loads of cold water on it but I would check that first! OH that, yep did that already, Twice. The first time I was running around the back yard with the front brake dragging for a bit and wanted to know if the disk got hot yet, all I did was swipe my finger across the disk. Did not grab or hold the finger on it just swiped. Yep it was HOT!!!!!! finger quit being sore a day or two later. I am such a doofus sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 Yes Zipper, I am talking about thermal shock!!! It may take a few cycles! You don't have to go far, just stick a bottle water in your buttcrack, do a couple of 4th gear stops with the front brake, and douse the front disc with a bit of the water. It should steam off!!! Try it a few more times! A note, if your pads are saturated with fork oil it may not work! I have soaked them in brake cleaner and saved them though! The dual pot front caliper was not generally that bad, they do work, but the 4 pot is better I suppose. Last one I bought was about $100 to convert the 1.25. I have a good used set of Galfer pads for the dual pot sitting here, but they will cost you a fiver if you want them sent! PM me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baldilocks Posted October 25, 2007 Report Share Posted October 25, 2007 (edited) Zippy check that the pad is floating freely on the slit pins or bolt that retains the pad in the caliper. They can stick, I recently had this problem, and couldnt understand how I had pressure at the lever but the bike wasnt stopping very well, either clean up the pin / bolt with sandpaper or file the hole out a little in the pad. Ned you could be onto something there mate, Ive notced before that one edge of the rear pads wears faster than the other, dont know if its the leading or trailing edge. Also I was looking at the rear disc on a Gas Gas yesterday and that has cutaways on the inside edge of the disc. Perhaps they were designed like that as at one time the FIM banned wavy discs ? Edited October 25, 2007 by Baldilocks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 As a warning to those who are unfamiliar, many years ago when I was young and dummer and disk brakes were becoming the in thing, I was truing a front wheel and had to reach for the left fork leg as the wheel was spinning. Suddenly there was no fingernail on my index finger as the sharp edge of the rotating disc had grabbed it and totally whisked it away in an instant! Quite a shock! Looking down at the remaining bloody red pulp, I almost passed out!!! And I was totally unsure of what would happen if those things were ripped out by the roots, would it ever reappear? Yes , thankfully they do grow back unless your nailbed is severely damaged, took months, quite tender the raw meat is! I still rember that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grib Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 In theory a disc with no holes should perform better because there is more surface area for the pads to grip to, Read this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
biffsgasgas Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 As a warning to those who are unfamiliar, many years ago when I was young and dummer and disk brakes were becoming the in thing, I was truing a front wheel and had to reach for the left fork leg as the wheel was spinning. Suddenly there was no fingernail on my index finger as the sharp edge of the rotating disc had grabbed it and totally whisked it away in an instant! Quite a shock!Looking down at the remaining bloody red pulp, I almost passed out!!! And I was totally unsure of what would happen if those things were ripped out by the roots, would it ever reappear? Yes , thankfully they do grow back unless your nailbed is severely damaged, took months, quite tender the raw meat is! I still rember that! Wholly CR@P that same thing happened to me a year ago this weekend! I was in northern new jersey and my company car broke down while i was in a feurneral procession. I ditched the car and rode with my parents. When it was all said and done it was about 5pm and here i am with a broken hybrid and no 300 volt protection. I ended up fixing it by 7pm on the side of the highway (this was saturday). I said screw this and drove all night back to michigan. I got two hours of sleep and decided that at 8 am i needed to ride! I called mitch the B!tch (roommate and fellow wgasa member)(no i couldnt walk up stairs thats why i have a cell phone!) So as I am loading his Montesa into the truck my middle finger gets caught on that same disc bolt! Just as you stated i almost passed out myself. I ended up riding anyways and won so i had that going for me. That was a bad weekend. --Biff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted October 26, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 That Montesa is now refered to as "Nibbler" I still think we should get a graphic of Nibbler from Futurama and put it on for him. Wonder if he would appreciate that. OK back to disc stuff. Grib Posted Today, 09:56 AM QUOTE In theory a disc with no holes should perform better because there is more surface area for the pads to grip to, Read this Now that has me confused. (easy enough to do) If I remove my 2 piston caliper and put on a 4 piston caliper this would increase area. according to the article I also need to increase force in order to keep the pressure the same in order to increase friction. Does this mean my current master cylinder is not sufficient in force to create an increase in friction. Or and this is a popular thought with those that know me: I ain't got a clue about anything and should just shut up stop trying to understand it and just put on the 4 piston caliper, new brake line and go riding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swooshdave Posted October 26, 2007 Report Share Posted October 26, 2007 I ain't got a clue about anything and should just shut up stop and just go riding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grib Posted October 30, 2007 Report Share Posted October 30, 2007 If I remove my 2 piston caliper and put on a 4 piston caliper this would increase area. according to the article I also need to increase force in order to keep the pressure the same in order to increase friction. Does this mean my current master cylinder is not sufficient in force to create an increase in friction. If the area of the pistons in the 4 piston caliper is greater than in the 2 piston one then using the same master cylinder will create a higher braking force (but the brake lever will move closer to the handlebar). If the area of the pads in the 4 piston caliper is greater than those in the 2 piston caliper then the effect of the additional force will be reduced. What are the piston diameters in both calipers & the sizes of both types of pad? - its easy to calculate the effect of changing from one to the other. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zippy Posted October 30, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2007 OK in the ever changing world of Zippy wants something but then reality kicks in. I have decided to take apart current caliper again clean everything, pistons, pads, pad holding pins, clean disk, reassemble with new O-ring and bleed very well. Also will replace brake line, the way that it acts I keep thinking that there is a weak spot in the line that is bulging out when more pressure is applied. If this does not work then back to the drawing board. Thank you all for your help, learned a bit, went a little looney (was already mostly there anyways) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
copemech Posted October 31, 2007 Report Share Posted October 31, 2007 If your hose is hard on both ends and soft in the middle, you have a problem! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcman56 Posted November 1, 2007 Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 Back to Drilling Discs.......Do the drilled holes help prevent or minimize brake squeel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barcota Posted November 1, 2007 Report Share Posted November 1, 2007 Brake squeal is primarily caused by the glazing of the surface of the brake pads. Try removing the pads and sand them on a flat surface with sandpaper. Voila !!! No more squealing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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