January 28, 201412 yr TLTEL, Sweet, as long as it works. I was just curious. Pete, The thicker first and last plates come standard on the 2013. Beta sold them before as a special. They increase the preload on the springs by making the clutch pack a little thicker. All plates the same is a clutch pack from the previous years. The same thing I have put in my bike. I like the older pack better. It has a much more progressive take up than the new pack. I think you'll really like it unless you are an uber expert. I'm no uber expert I'm afraid! I'll let you know how I get on.. Incidentally, do you run your bike with a flywheel weight added, we have them as standard here in the uk, might try it without just to see if there's any noticeable difference.
January 28, 201412 yr Author I don't run any flywheel weights and as far as I can tell the 300 doesn't have the heavy primary side flywheel either. Zoom zoom!
February 1, 201412 yr Getting ready to do the modification on my 2011 Beta. Before I invest the time and energy, trying to decide if I should by new plates first and do the mod on them rather than the old ones. So, the question is: How do I know if my old plates need replaced? Is there a minimum thickness they should be? Thanks
February 2, 201412 yr Author Unless you are an expert and do a lot of full throttle splats my guess is your current plates are fine and you can just do the mod on them. Over time the steel plates can get polished to the point of slippage and a quick dressing with super fine grit emory cloth will bring them back to normal.
February 2, 201412 yr Hi Dan, I've completed a full trial with the modified plates now and it's much much better, no drag or slip, well worth doing, very pleased. I bought new plates and spent a lot of time rubbing away the glue from I between the pads and smoothing off the tabs. The clutch is now progressive and smooth. I'd recommend the mod to anyone. Also I much prefer the power delivery without the flywheel weight, less over run on slow sections and more instant but still controllable power delivery when you need it. Thanks!
February 3, 201412 yr Author Glad to hear it Pete. Does your bike have the stepped washers/spring retainers and if so how are they oriented?
February 4, 201412 yr Hi Dan, I'm not aware of the stepped washers/spring retainers, it's not something I've changed. I went out again today and the clutch was great. The only thing was a rattle from the plates that I could hear from time to time, but in think I've read that they do that after the fix?
February 6, 201412 yr Author Hi Pete, on my '13 300 the retaining washers are anodized red stepped washers that you can either mount with the flat side towards the spring or with the stepped side towards the spring reducing the preload on the springs 2~3mm. Come to think of it those washers would probably retrofit a Rev3. Oh yeah, the plates rattle a bit more until they settle in. Don't worry, you won't even notice it after a while. Edited February 6, 201412 yr by dan williams
February 6, 201412 yr not totally sure, but I think the stepped washers are only on the 300 or the factory bikes. my 300 factory has stepped washers, my dads standard 250 has plain washers, both bikes are 2012 evos
March 9, 201412 yr hello , I have a question about the clutch . my evo 290 2010 is slippery on 5 and 6 gear so I changed the plates , springs and metal plates and do the same. before the change I test 3 different oils and do the ''dan work" ....... any ideas?
March 9, 201412 yr Author Er, not really sure what the question was. Do the tab fix glue clean to the fiber plates. Check that the basket grooves aren't notched. Use a good gear oil and you should be good to go.
March 9, 201412 yr Dan, my question is why the 5th and 6th gear slips. I did the tab fix glue clean to the fiber plates and the only difference was in the cold clutch. Any other adjustment? thank you
March 9, 201412 yr Author Make sure you don't have the lever adjusted in too far. At the rest position for the lever the piston in the master cylinder should be all the way out resting on the circlip. It's common for people to adjust the lever such that the piston doesn't return all the way so it never uncovers the resevoir. What happens in that case is the system is closed so it never equalizes fluid pressure that builds up as the fluid heats causing the clutch (or brake) to be partially on. With the clutch it's like feathering the lever. The reason a clutch slips first in the higher gears is because the load on the engine is much greater. On a trials bike the top gears are loop gears and spaced much further apart than the lower 3-4 gears. Edited March 9, 201412 yr by dan williams
March 10, 201412 yr Dear Dan, Thank you for being patient and writing me about my problem. I really didn't write about my problem on the forum without reading first the previous 11 pages related to the Beta clutch. So, I followed all the possible solutions described and only when I was desperate I wrote the question. The lever clutch has a gap (the piston is free). When I put the disks I checked the gap that should have in the center of the clutch. It almost had NO gap at all. I tested the bike and do the same. After, I reopened the clutch and I took out one, the thinnest, of the two washers that are on the bearing. When I tied the clutch, it had a gap. I tested the bike and it was improved on the 5th gear (not completely disappeared) but it is doing the same on the 6th gear. DESPAIR!! Should I check the clutch pump? (on the carter) Is there any risk now that the clutch has only the one washer inside?
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