bestrial Posted March 11, 2014 Report Share Posted March 11, 2014 for sure some things are all the time in front your eyes but you can not see them...... in my case I didn't see that the first and the last fiber disk is DIFERENT with DIFERENT part code . (I think also the previous rider and the shop where I ordered the clutch set) Tomorrow I receive the 2 right disks (first and last) and I hope to finish with this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted March 13, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2014 (edited) Hi Bestrial, Sorry I didn't get back sooner. Busy week. Yeah the newest EVOs have the different plate setup and it does preload the clutch pack springs a little more which makes for a more abrupt engagement. Still slippage shouldn't occur even with the old setup of all six plates the same. You could try the light sanding of the steel plates. What are you running for oil? If you're using anything that has some super slippery additive like PTFE (Teflon) you could be reducing the friction. You also have to be mindful of what oil was used in the past as some oils could contaminate the plates and change their friction characteristics. Something like Prolong or slick50 would probably really screw up a wet clutch. Even going from just one type of gear oil to another requires a few changes to get it to completely switch behavior. I don't think free play in the clutch throw-out bearing is all that big a deal as that is sort of self adjusting and as long as it comes back to a position where it's not exerting any pressure against the bearing it should be fine. Edited March 13, 2014 by dan williams 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris p duck Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 i've been looking for a solution for my dragging clutch (causes alot of 5's) for ages now and within 5 minutes of joining and looking on trials central i find it. amazing. thatnks, i will most probably do this when i have time and post the results. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bestrial Posted March 14, 2014 Report Share Posted March 14, 2014 Hi Bestrial, Sorry I didn't get back sooner. Busy week. Yeah the newest EVOs have the different plate setup and it does preload the clutch pack springs a little more which makes for a more abrupt engagement. Still slippage shouldn't occur even with the old setup of all six plates the same. You could try the light sanding of the steel plates. What are you running for oil? If you're using anything that has some super slippery additive like PTFE (Teflon) you could be reducing the friction. You also have to be mindful of what oil was used in the past as some oils could contaminate the plates and change their friction characteristics. Something like Prolong or slick50 would probably really screw up a wet clutch. Even going from just one type of gear oil to another requires a few changes to get it to completely switch behavior. I don't think free play in the clutch throw-out bearing is all that big a deal as that is sort of self adjusting and as long as it comes back to a position where it's not exerting any pressure against the bearing it should be fine. i put the 2 plates and now it is working 100% !! Yes Dan maybe you right about the oils because here in Greece it is not easy to find oil 100% for trial (i didn't find at all) . Thank you Dan and off course all the members of trialcentral.!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stpauls Posted April 30, 2014 Report Share Posted April 30, 2014 (edited) Hello all Last week I did the clutch fix on my 2013 250 Evo. It was quite straightforward to do and took me about 3.5 hours to complete. On the clutch plates, there was glue everywhere, thicker in some places than others. The edges of the tabs were quite rough. I used a cheap Dremel-type tool. I did not have much clutch drag before, but there was a slight improvement. However, the clutch is more progressive and smoother. I think that changing gear and finding neutral with the engine running is also a bit easier, but not by a huge amount. Thanks for the clearly written and easy to follow instructions. Edited May 1, 2014 by stpauls Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul_m Posted May 10, 2014 Report Share Posted May 10, 2014 I stripped my new bike to the bones today, carried out the clutch mod, there was tons of glue with debris attached. First ride at bumpy tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trialsrfun Posted November 9, 2014 Report Share Posted November 9, 2014 Beta clutch fix x 3 all successful. My trials riding friend & I own a total of three Beta's, my 250, his 200 & Evo 4T all had the usual will not free when cold problem. First to be worked upon was the 4T, the plates from this were really glue glazed as if they had almost been dipped in the stuff. Next the two 2 strokes, 200 first 250 last. The plates from these two were much cleaner than the 4T but some plates from each bike were worse affected than others, once cleaned and reassembled the clutches on each bike worked impeccably, freeing instantly from cold with a much better action. Thank you for all the information it has been a most worthwhile repair/improvement/modification. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted November 15, 2014 Author Report Share Posted November 15, 2014 (edited) Excellent! At this point I'm curious if the mod has been done in any appreciable numbers to other brands of machines and if they have similar improvement. Edited November 15, 2014 by dan williams 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slicktop Posted November 17, 2014 Report Share Posted November 17, 2014 (edited) Dan, I have not done your mods yet on my 13/300evo. In the summer I had no issues from cold, but now that the temps have dropped I do notice a lurch when shifting out of neutral. My bike has been so trouble free lately that I need something to do and your mod may be the ticket. I'll report back. Even if other brands don't either care or don't benefit as much, the testimonies of beta riders alone should ingrain your insight. Cheers Edited November 17, 2014 by slicktop Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfc Posted February 12, 2015 Report Share Posted February 12, 2015 Beta number 3 done, 2009 300 4T, been meaning to do the clutch fix for ages but never got to mine only did the boys bikes over the years. Wish I had done it before, never thought it was to bad but it is now so much better. Thanks Dan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dan williams Posted February 14, 2015 Author Report Share Posted February 14, 2015 Glad to be of service. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19delta Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 Looking forward to doing this mod soon, but have another question. I have been told that the oil level makes a big difference. Any truth to this? I have not experimented at all. I just bough a 2011 Evo 250 2t. My sighht glass is completely covered with oil. I need to lean bike down a good bit to side before I see air. Manual calls for 550cc. I have a beta guy (who I trust) say to run around 450cc. He said ideal is half way up sight glass. Thoughts? (I realized oil level won't fix the problem, and I am doing the clutch mod fix here in a few weeks on my day off. Thanks for the great write up!) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lineaway Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 (edited) 450 is good. Manufacturers should list a dry and oil change separately. Too much oil does cause a problem in both release and engagement. Edited March 21, 2015 by lineaway 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19delta Posted March 21, 2015 Report Share Posted March 21, 2015 Thanks lineaway! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
19delta Posted April 28, 2015 Report Share Posted April 28, 2015 For those folks who prefer to keep all 6 springs but would like to reduce clutch lever effort without spending money on lighter springs I can offer this trick borrowed from www.thumpertalk.com. You can use a washer under the spring retainer (obviously you will need 6 identical washers). Effectively this lengthens the spring "tower", or to put it another way, it reduces spring preload. Washer O.D. obviously needs to be slightly smaller than spring I.D. And washer I.D. needs to be just barely big enough for spring bolt to go through. I've done this mod on my enduro bike, and with 1.5 mm thickness washers the difference in clutch effort was very noticeable. The only thing to watch out for is to make sure you have adequate clearance between spring bolts and the clutch cover. Anybody have any experience with using washers for shims? I am doing the clutch fix tomorrow, and want a lighter clutch, but don't want to leave two springs out. I would love to buy the washers today before tearing the bike apart. What size washers do I need? I am doing this to my 11 evo 250 2t. Also, we may do my Dads 11 evo 300 4t. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.