Sorry you need to touch the two ends of the test leads together and then set the zero at the far right of the needle range.

Hope that makes sense?

Thanks for the advice but I'm not comfortable working with it as I'm used to digital and even once zero'd this is too jumpy for me to trust. Will get my digital one back of my mate tonight and have a guy coming over tomorrow to try get it started

I can't make any sense of this multi meter either! It doesn't have ranging! I'm guessing its auto ranging. Either way, it just bleeps to say it has continuity and displays 1 rather than a reading on everything!

Put a photo of the meter showing the selection dial.

I will try and help you set the meter correctly (TRY)!

What value are you trying to read.

The wiring is all over the place. Its a joke! Someone who hasn't got a clue has messed with it all!

Right, this is the multi meter. Only has one option for ohms which its set on..

The black wire just displays 1 and beeps. It should be 35ohms?

This is the blue wire to ground which should be 45ohms..

ANd as for the yellow wire.. Look at this mess! It is suppose to go to the regulator but instead has all these joins and open terminals!! From the regulator should be a red wire going to stat but instead has a loop wire back to the original yellow wire?

If that is reading 37 on the blue then that is about right, but if it is 0.037 then you have a dead short.

Edited February 21, 201313 yr by jfc

You need to remove the flywheel if you are reeding full continuity on the black. is the flywheel casing full of water or any sign of water staining?

I agree with jfc about the black. Looking at that blue wire, it looks like your meter is reading in 2K which is kilo-ohms (1000 ohms). I know it seems like it should be 2 kilo ohms but meters are like that (that means a range of 1000-2000 ohms max). So you have to multiply that reading by 1000. So .037 would be 37 ohms.

Edited February 21, 201313 yr by coop650

Thanks guys, this sounds silly but is the flywheel behind the casing on the left? If so, its bone dry behind there. I have removed the nut but can't get the flywheel off. Guessing I need a puller to remove it?

Also, the yellow wire it says to check is showing 1 and bleep too!

Sounds like a dead stator?

You do need a puller, they are pretty cheap or maybe you can borrow one. Sure sounds like that stator coil possibly needs rewound. I have no idea who to go to for that over there. In the US I could suggest a couple places.

There is a place near me that does car alternator repairs and starter motor bushes etc so hopefully they will be able to do it. Is there any online guides to removing the flywheel? I looked but no luck

You can do what you mentioned earlier and re-wire it if you still suspect a bad connection or bad wire. But from your tests it sure sounds like the stator is the issue.

Really you just take the nut off, and then use the puller to remove the flywheel. If you try to rig a gear/bearing puller or use the wrong one you can damage the flywheel or end of the crank.

They look like this. Not saying this one will work just showing an example so you can see what they look like. :

http://www.ebay.com/...4318844&vxp=mtr

I have not used them myself but I think people have had good results from west country windings, you will need to google them!

Edited February 21, 201313 yr by jfc

Will make a few calls and get prices tommorow thanks for all your help.

I find it a little strange the black and red wires are reading totally out and yet it does still spark. Will see if I can borrow a puller then have it tested and go from there

First off, I HATE wiring. And I will assume you now do as well.

Looking at the pic, the yellow wire in the middle of your left palm, going from big white connector at the bottom of the pic to the little black connector in your palm looks like it may be broken/frayed at the little black connector in your palm. May want to look at that and decide if that needs a better connection.