I've got a fix for leaking IRC's! You've got to use bead glue, which is available from automotive tire places and it works. I love the grip of the IRC over either Michelin tire to be honest.

I tried that but still couldn't rely on it.

I tried that but still couldn't rely on it.

I tried too. IRC gave a few of us some "new" to try out here and this year alone i have had two go from fine to nothing in seconds. I am going to put my IRC on the TY175 but I think i understand their issue. It seems that IRC is using three ply for the whole tire where as Mich and Dunlop have three ply only at the tread and let the side wall do its job with 2 ply. I think that as the tire flexes it pulls the bead with it. With 4 psi i can get the bead to move just by standing on the side wall. Who knows if they will fix it. I thought they really hadn't changed much but this has become a big issue here. Enough so that people won't get them because they dont trust em. My spare wheel set has a beat up xlite on it and it has saved me several DNF's just because of IRC.

 

I prefer Dunlop because they are cheap and i am not good enough to determine the difference. My beading tip has worked for the past several installs which is put cut two by fours between the beads and let the tire sit in the sun for the day. Use a little armor all or dish liquid and wala your on. No bead foam ring needed which i have but haven't needed in a while. 

 

--Biff

As is said "Ignorance is bliss". I bought IRC tube front, tubeless rear without knowing about this problem. Fortunately on my Scorpa SY250 it hasn't been a problem, but then I use 0.4bar front and 0.5bar (about 7psi) rear.

 

I don't know if this is relevant... the rims, when I took off the old tyres, were so heavily corroded I had to use a combination of wire brush on a drill and a power file to remove it. Maybe this attention to the surface condition of the rim is contributory?

Edited June 23, 201511 yr by cbf1000

As is said "Ignorance is bliss". I bought IRC tube front, tubeless rear without knowing about this problem. Fortunately on my Scorpa SY250 it hasn't been a problem, but then I use 0.4bar front and 0.5bar (about 7psi) rear.

I think 7 psi in the rear will help prevent the issue but that pressure is totally useless for trials.

Do IRC have exceptionable traction when still seated on the rim? Reason I ask is one of my Vintage bikes has the Nuetech Tubliss system that secures the bead in place,would a IRC then be worth a go?

I think 7 psi in the rear will help prevent the issue but that pressure is totally useless for trials.

 

Hello timp, I am very new to this game - probably less than 10 hours of riding - so interested in why 7 psi is useless. I've referred to the owner's manual for recommended tyre pressures, am I right in thinking you consider them too high?

Just a thought, an enduro friend uses mousse in his wheels, are there mousses designed for trials application?

Hello timp, I am very new to this game - probably less than 10 hours of riding - so interested in why 7 psi is useless. I've referred to the owner's manual for recommended tyre pressures, am I right in thinking you consider them too high?

Tubeless tend to run at 4 - 5 psi, unless only mud then lower.

 

 

 

 

 

Just a thought, an enduro friend uses mousse in his wheels, are there mousses designed for trials application?

 

Mousse about 18psi, apparently.

Hello timp, I am very new to this game - probably less than 10 hours of riding - so interested in why 7 psi is useless. I've referred to the owner's manual for recommended tyre pressures, am I right in thinking you consider them too high?

Hi. The pressure most run is 4 in the back and 6 in the front.

This can vary down to 2 and perhaps up to 6 if a heavy rider. Southern riders will be running very low pressures in winter mud especially. Riding in situations where the edges of the rocks are sharp can lead to cuts in your sidewalls so a bit more air will help prevent damage.

Getting over 4 psi really gets noticeable in slippy conditions. Also running with a tube reduces the flex in the rubber and reduces grip.

I have used Michelin and Dunlop and feel the 803 is every bit as good as the X11 for almost half the price. Many National Champs use them, so they can't be all bad. This way I can afford to buy more tires and compete with a good sharp tread rather than using an old worn out Michelin.

I have a 2012 Beta 300 and the rear tire leaks around the bead. I've tried two used Michelins that were not leaking before and a brand new Dunlop and they all leak around the bead. It only takes about 25 to 35 pounds to seat them as opposed to the 100+ pounds on my other bikes. I think there is something wrong with the rim. I can't afford a new Michelin just to see if it's better or not, but I doubt it would be.

I tried automotive bead sealer, but it doesn't last.

10 pounds or more will keep it inflated, but it's no good for traction!

The worst thing is that if it goes flat, it pop's right off the bead and the bike won't move!

Do IRC have exceptionable traction when still seated on the rim? Reason I ask is one of my Vintage bikes has the Nuetech Tubliss system that secures the bead in place,would a IRC then be worth a go?

 

Tubliss is ok for the front, but the fact that you have to drill another hole in the rim kinda kills the charm for a tubeless rear rim.

 

 My beading tip has worked for the past several installs which is put cut two by fours between the beads and let the tire sit in the sun for the day. Use a little armor all or dish liquid and wala your on. No bead foam ring needed which i have but haven't needed in a while. 

 

--Biff

 

That's a great idea.

I put an old tube in any tire not on my bike and blow it up enough to expand the sidewall and leave it like that. When I need the tire, it's always ready and usually pops right on. The worst are the ones that get shipped UPS with the beads taped together, if I need them right away, I have to use the foam o-ring. Next time, I'll try some wood! Thanks.

 

Tubliss is ok for the front, but the fact that you have to drill another hole in the rim kinda kills the charm for a tubeless rear rim.

 

I tried drilling a hole and using a rim/wheel lock and tube on my 96 Gas Gas, I had nothing but trouble. The tube walks around inside the tire until it leaks around the valve stem. I ended up getting a new (used) rear wheel. I tell everyone, NEVER go to a tube unless there is absolutely no other possible option!