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Recent Convert To 4 Stroke


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Hi. I bought my first 4 stroke about 3 weeks ago; it is a clean 2006/07 Repsol 4RT.

I am in my early 50's and have been competing for about 3 years on the easy and 50:50 routes.

My previous bike until 3 weeks ago was a 290 Evo 2 stroke, all of my previous bikes have been 2 strokes and I had progressed to riding reasonably competitively in my ability and age classes.

I REALLY enjoy riding the 4RT for all the usual reasons but accept that the transition to 4 stroke from 2 stroke is a learning curve as the engine characteristics are so different. The first thing I noticed riding the 4rt is the engine braking which I think I like. The second thing I noticed is that the engine braking means timing is even more of the essence when shutting off the throttle over a hazard.

I have also found that the myth of 4 strokes having better grip is also just that, a myth.

I am hoping I can call on the wide ranging experiences of TC members to start me off with a few easy to remember pointers to ease and speed up this learning curve so I can get back in the game; I did my first competition on the 4RT yesterday and thoroughly enjoyed it but dropped twice as many marks as I would normally.

Cheers chaps.

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I went through the same as you are finding out. As evoalien says, using the clutch as a substitute for reduced engine braking helped me but resulted in an aching left arm.

I couldn't get grip on compact clay as well as I could on my 2 strokes and the back wheel would often overtake the front on downhills, pulling the clutch helped.

The montesa held its line on rocky cobbles and had lovely suspension and I wonder if this was due to a bit extra weight.

Some riders master them, hope you do, but I gave up and returned to a 2 stroke.

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I moved to a Montesa 4T after 40 years of riding 2t’s, in that time I had never tried a 4T.

My initial try outs on a Montesa were disappointing but my son purchased one and I grew to enjoy working on it and decided to buy one to give it an extended go in play and competition.

The snap on – snap off throttle style will not work on a Mont. When approaching an obstacle I adopt a gentle roll off but limit closure to allow a “cruising roll”.

I find in some situations keeping a steady throttle and riding it out works best – stick with it.

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Many thanks for your valuable tips and comments.


I think the common theme amongst you all is that you have to keep "driving" the bike rather than using the stored inertia prevalent in a 2 stroke. Finer throttle control must be the order of the day, I think, and maybe trust the engine in the slow, tight stuff rather than clutch?



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Probably a lot of this is already on TC but we are always happy to help.

I found you cant slip the clutch and spin up the engine like on a 2T, especially on the earlier Monts like yours. A 2006 repsol maybe a 2005 bike possibly. Check you have larger clutch master cyl and 2006 clutch plates at least. These are not expensive changes but make clutch a lot better over the original 2005 bikes.

You also need to get your body well rearwards to maximise the low down torque.

On Slippery climbs etc I found you need to be very traditional in the turn/approach no revs and clutch ala 2T but once lined up and clutch you can be more aggressive on the throttle than a 2t and she will grip. This initial grip need to be abused with lots of aggression and throttle to allow you to roll off and play with the throttle once grip start to to diminish.

If ridding deep mud etc then build up the revs slowly and to a constant against the clutch, hold the revs steady and release the clutch slowly, again once gripping give it max then roll off and ride out with a smile.   

Watch some videos of Bou -big revs when stationary the almost ride the hazard on the overrun.

Never snap the throttle closed like on a 2t, I found I always ride with just a smidge of throttle left on on the over run, stops the full weight transferring to the front wheel - took me a while to suss this out after dabbing on a flat slippery stream bed. Latest bikes are not as sensitive to this.

Stick with it as on a rocky stream or a bit of open moorland you will not fail to smile. Also the reason is many Monts have bling is that there is nothing to repair or fix when you go into the garage 


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Thank you Addict and Jimmyl; taken on board and duly noted. To be honest, not checked the gearing yet despite having the chain off to clean! I know the 4rt is not as lean as 2 stroke counterparts and you don't have to be so subtle in your body language on board.


The clutch master is not as big as the front brake; probably half the size. Did think the "not as good as my Evo" clutch action may be due partly to this as well as the gear oil, steel plates and generally tighter basket/hub:plate tolerances compared to European bikes.


What you say about keeping it a smidge on the throttle makes a lot of sense too. Keep it "driving".


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Hi the best advice I was given with my first 4rt was ride it for a year before you really judge it. They were bang on too.

As has been said big master cylinder on clutch.

Mitani clutch plates if you can get hold of a set.

Don't be afraid of big gears either it helps find grip!

The best thing and the worst thing on a 4rt is the fuel injection! It is always spot on. BUT the first power stroke is sometimes just too fierce and brakes traction a mappable throttle body can help calm the initial surge down but it will come with time on the footrests.

Just enjoy it for what it is. A cracking bike.

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