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Gear Selection


huski
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I have a 2014 jtg 250 that has done about 25 easy trials.Riding it yesterday and the gear lever sometimes stuck at either end of its travel which seemed to be further than usual.It still selects ok but the lever has about 10 degrees of play before anything moves inside.Theres no unusual noise or jumping out of gear,has anyone else had this problem and what fixed it please?

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Hi Mick. I've had / got this problem also. It's only when you are stationary . If you move the gear lever slightly the opposite was to the gear you want.... and then go to select your gear , it goes in fine. I just put up with this minor inconvenience (for me).

I discussed this problem with a factory mechanic. He said the reason was because swarf interfered with the 3 tiny 2 mm x 2 mm spring loaded pegs of steel which sit on the outside of the selector drum. The tolerences are so tight that this apparently makes a difference abs makes the little pegs jam in place inside the drum so they cannot spring out and protrude and do their job of moving the drum and changing gear.

He showed me how to cure it and I videod it , which I have around somewhere , which no doubt you'll be aching to see.. and I'll try to find when I have time. Take the round clutch case off and remove the plates and basket. The orings are reusable. There is a ring on the top of the clutch basket which is shaped in a way that when it spins and oil runs through it , tiny swarf is caught in it. This needs removing and cleaning. It is designed to clean the oil to some extent and I'm told gg also have this. This ring is not your issue although the fact that it might be bunged up , might be. It needs cleaning.

The little teeth also need blowing out with an airline. I can't recall if you can remove these.

I'm told this should sort it ... but is something that you'll need to repeat.

It's one of the side effects of lighter smaller engines. Wouldn't have happened on an Ossa Mar with tolerences of 1/8" ! :).

Anyway this is what I know about this issue to the best of my knowledge. Don't shoot the messenger and good luck.

Edited by gasgas249uk
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Hi mick i recently had to change the kick start spring which entailed removing the clutch & inner casing, the selector drum is then exposed,Ralph had same problem on his 280, which Freesyle repaired. just replaced clutch plates on my 250  ,s3 from shirty,

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I've had it all apart,there was plenty of rubbish in there.Took the clutch off which had lots of silver particles in it which are flecks of paint off the inside of the casing.The paint was flaking off inside so I've removed it all .I can't see anything wrong with the selector drum,but I'm not confident everything is right.Only thing I found amiss was a2mm dia 4mm long metal piece lying on the clutch,but I can't see where it came from,there's nothing like it in parts diagram.Ive washed the box out with petrol and put it back together ?It seems better but not right.To select a lower gear the gear lever tip goes below the bash plate,higher gears the lever goes to about 11oclock.Maybe it all ways been like this and I've only noticed cos it's been sticking.Maybe I need to speak to Freestyle,thanks for your help gents

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Hi Huski,

The piece you have found could well be one of the two rods that are used in the selector mechanism. The "rods" are sprung agains the selector pawls to engage the rotary movement one way, then another. I'll try to paste a photo of the parts here.

Not able to paste the image.

If you wanted, you can PM me with your email and I can send you the parts drawing related to this.

I don't think the video for the "oil filter" is quite correct. Yes lots of the metal shavings do get trapped there, between the belleville spring and pressure plate, same on GG and Ossa's, but this happens due to the particles getting flung out due to centrifigual force and getting trapped rather than there being a specific oil filter mechanism.

Bye, PeterB.

 

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  • 4 months later...

Hi,

I have just read this post with interest.

I have exactly the same problem with my 2012 JotaGas 300.  My Son accidentally removed a plug on the bottom of the gearbox to drain the oil.  It had a spring inside and 2 small holes drilled through the bottom of the thread.

He replaced it and found the proper drain plug.  Unfortunately, it was leaking oil.  I removed the same plug again and replaced the copper washer which was damaged.

I now have exactly the problem described above.

I can't find the bits in the parts manual.  The copper washer looks like it may have had a step machined in it but I only had a flat one.  It may be items 16 and 17 on the Selector page (19) of the parts manual but this doesn't show a washer at all.

I'm not too far from Freestyle so can ring them.  If it's a simple fix, I'd rather do it myself.

Did this problem get resolved?  What does this part do?

 

Any help appreciated.

 

Bruce.

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Hi Bruce,

The first plug that you removed is not the drain plug, it houses the index plunger ball bearing and spring to provide the positive stop when selecting different gears. I think the washer thickness is quite sensetive, as if thinner than standard, then the plug screws in a little further and as the gears are selected, the spring becomes coil bound and does not allow the selector to complete it's movement.

As written above by GG249uk, two washers or just one thicker one, would be better than a single thin one.

Bye, Peter B.

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As Previous replys,washer thickness is crucial,too thin and it binds the selector drum up..You could progressively loosen the bolt until it works properly and then see how thick the washer needs to be

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