On 24/10/2017 at 9:23 PM, bullylover said:

You might be better off having the forks rechromed. Rad Hard Chroming in Brisbane does them. They also straighten them out as well. Graham.

Thanks Graham, I've sent them an enquiry. I'll also check if anyone in Victoria is doing that sort of work.

Coming along nicely oldaz, I don't mean to be picky but your rear frame bracket for the muffler is way too long if you intend to run an original muffler. I say this because i'm going through the same process with my '74 247 at the moment, re-welding brackets to the hoop for guards and muffler. I'm incorporating a rubber grommet into the muffler stay also to help prevent it breaking again.

11 hours ago, fourex said:

Coming along nicely oldaz, I don't mean to be picky but your rear frame bracket for the muffler is way too long if you intend to run an original muffler. I say this because i'm going through the same process with my '74 247 at the moment, re-welding brackets to the hoop for guards and muffler. I'm incorporating a rubber grommet into the muffler stay also to help prevent it breaking again.

I appreciate the comments fourex and I know it's longer, but it's what was on there to match up with the muffler that came with the bike and can always be shortened if needed. The muffler that came with the bike is a serviceable type where you can strip it and add/remove filling and is rubber bush mounted. I would like a genuine one but am not prepared to pay over $350 to get one here.

Just got a response from RAD in Brisbane to refurbish the fork tubes at $360 plus shipping each way, apparently there's nowhere in Melbourne that do it any more and RAD have the market. I haven't been able to find replacement tubes either - makes me wish I still had my engineering connections who could easily modify a set of common size tubes from a different model. I may still attempt to try that.

Any idea where to get the plastic trials type rear mudguard in Oz??

Oldaz, I bought one of these very nice aluminium mufflers for my 247 back in January for a little over $250 AUS delivered from Paul Arnott (Hell Team). They're the same shape as original but way lighter and very well made, not repack-able unless you cut it open however. Paul also hopes to have Gonelli plastic guards available soon which are suitable for most of these old twin shocks.Don Newell once sold them here in Brisbane, unfortunately Don is no longer with us.

Edited October 27, 20178 yr by fourex

Looks great fourex. I've got to a point where I have to pull my head in a bit with parts for a while. Hard chroming $360 plus shipping each way, handlebars $110 for Renthalls, muffler $250, chain $85, need to replace the spoke nipples in 2 wheels, probably spokes as well, so another couple hundred there and I haven't looked at the power unit yet. Way it's going it's going to be a 7k bike when it's done. Anyway, I bit the bullet today and ordered the rear mudguard from inmotion.

There is another place in Australia that has the Goneli mudguards. Bultaco Australia has them and I think they are in Melbourne as well. In Motion in England does have original shape and look mudguards. Graham.

8 hours ago, bullylover said:

There is another place in Australia that has the Goneli mudguards. Bultaco Australia has them and I think they are in Melbourne as well. In Motion in England does have original shape and look mudguards. Graham.

Thanks Graham, when I measured the bike I figured the rear mudguard needed to be at least 980 around the curve. the Gonelli rear is 930 (don't quote me) and the Stilmotor is just over 1 metre, so I went with the longer option figuring I can always make it shorter if I need to.

A little more progress today, got the swinging arm back in. Picture shows the home made (custom?) chain protector sandwiched between the frame and the swinging arm. I bought a block of rubber from Precision Hytec and cut the new one from it - total cost about $7.50 - to get the same part from Spain would have been over $150 with most of that for postage.

Will fit up the rear shocks next. The mounts have a 7.2mm hole through them and the shock is normally only held by an E clip. The clips were missing and I got new ones, but it didn't look very secure, so I also decided to tap the mounts to M8 and put some stainless button head cap screws in there.

Got the shocks fitted up and like how they look. Made new bronze bushings and stainless hinge pin for the brake pedal, then the rear mudguard arrived, so fitted that as well.

Picture shows the chain guard in place so I could mark it up for shock clearance. Completed the taper roller bearing conversion to the triple tree, fitted it up and did a preliminary pre-load on the bearings as well. 

Bought some bits off eBay and ended up with enough bits to make up the forks. Refurbished the sliders and tube nut relief valves, replaced all seals, O-rings, gaiters and circlips and fitted back to the bike - had to see it with the new handlebars in place. Now making new spacers for the footrest springs and refurbishing the axle assemblies. Wheels are away getting hydroblasted and rebuilt with new spokes & nipples - the nipples were steel and badly rusted, the hubs and brake plates corroded - meantime I'm doing the brake fittings.

Lots of little bits done, foot pegs finished and fitted, axle ends recut square & new stainless washers, made new wheel spacers including one to replace the speedo drive, brake operating levers repaired and painted and so it goes - lots of little bits ready for when the wheels and brake plates arrive. Still have to modify the hinge points on the "alternative" brake shoes, but looks like they will fit OK. Aluminium arrived to make the front mudguard support brackets so that's next - hope it works out, then clean up the tank for fibreglass repairs. No pictures this time - will wait until the wheels are back in.

Does anyone know the paint code for Montesa red?

More little bits done, mostly on the front end. New mudguard stays made and fitted, mudguard fitted, coil fitted, stainless lower gaiter clamps arrived and fitted, handlebars, grips and levers all in place and the rest of the brake parts repairs/modifications completed. Now if I only had the wheels back.... Hoping to get the tank out for repairs next week after I get the paint matched on Wednesday then a couple of busy weeks on the farm, maybe get the wheels back during this time, then start on the power unit. 

So, wheels not back yet, so on to the tank/seat support. Cleaned it up, plenty of cracks in the gel-coat, couple of leaks where there's like pin-hole punctures on the sides, one patched hole underneath and mounting holes chewed out. Looks like a 150mm long burn mark on the right hand side about where your knee would be?? No idea what that would be from as the exhaust is on the left side? Oh yes, PO had a wonderful time with the petrol tap, these tanks have a moulded in M12x1.25 steel female thread for the tap to screw into, looks like PO cut a 7/16" whitworth thread on the tap and screwed it in there with a couple of rubber and steel washers to try and seal it. I managed to salvage the thread in the tank, so that's a bonus. I also had a win with the paint, the underside of the tank and under the sticker remains was some original colour and I found a place that will match it. After showing them the tank today the guy suggested a 2-pack paint that won't be affected by petrol, so I was able to collect a large rattle can this evening. The can is interesting as it has both parts of the 2-pack in it and the hardner is only released when you're ready to paint and you give multiple thin coats with a 3 to 5 minute flash time between coats - hope I don't stuff it up - will find out when I get the tank back from repairs.

Other than that, the 9 tooth sprocket arrived and the chain is on the way, getting ready for the power unit - gaskets arrived about a month ago - might get a chance to make the engine stand tomorrow.

Made an adaptor and fixed the petrol tap problem, fitted the stainless nyloc nuts to the front mudguard stays, then got stuck into it and made the engine stand. Wheels will probably be another week due to repairers work load and other commitments. Got the power unit mounted in the new stand, then had a bit of a struggle but got the timing cover off before I had to get back to farm duties. The picture doesn't show it, but there are screws set in the 4 corners of the bottom of the stand to adjust level if needed - also compensates for welding pull ;-)

Started cleaning up power unit, found clutch case cracked from contact with rocks, the clutch follower that goes between the lever and the 3 leg pusher is trashed so badly I can't see what the end is supposed to look like, the face of the 3 leg pusher is also trashed, otherwise that side looks to be in reasonable condition. Got the 12 tooth sprocket off, drive shaft is a bit chewed up and key is a bit worn, should be able to salvage the shaft and put a new woodruff key in there - no keyway in the new 9 tooth sprocket? I read somewhere that the taper is enough to hold them, but given the shaft condition, I believe for safety I'll have to cut a keyway in the new sprocket. The drive bearing (behind the sprocket) has a bit of slop in it as well, so looks like new bearing and seal will have to go in there. Already got the new kick start return spring also recut the clamp on the lever, cleaned it all up, rebuilt the contact points for the folding part and will replace the ball detent in there after I get it chrome plated.

If anyone has a picture of what the end of the clutch follower where it contacts the pusher is supposed to look like I would really appreciate seeing it.