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SWM Modifications

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7 hours ago, feetupfun said:

 I've heard there is also lining material designed to work on brakes that operate under water and that this material works well on trials bikes (that often have wet brakes) but I haven't tried it yet

This material actually works best (IMO) when it is wet, its only negative is it can be a be grabby when feathering the front brake.

 

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  • I agree with b40rt on most issues, specially regarding the footrests. Use CrMo plate of the same thickness as the side plates and TIG the bits in place, pre-warm the plates and keep them warm, making

  • teamferret
    teamferret

    The clutch cover off an aprilia climber improves the clutch action no end but they are thin on the ground nowadays. The middle box and the silencer weigh a ton. The middle can be cut open and everythi

  • I had a great Trials last Sunday! It was the last NYACT event of the season. My 1980 SWM worked great! I might also try higher bars or bar risers. 

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@dozerash, have you read through the many posts that appear earlier on the swm forum ? All the info is there about clutch springs, adjustments, leavers etc

Have you extended the arm inside the clutch casing ? An all day one finger clutch is possible without using hydraulics.

  • Author
On 11/23/2019 at 4:37 AM, b40rt said:

@dozerash, have you read through the many posts that appear earlier on the swm forum ? All the info is there about clutch springs, adjustments, leavers etc

Have you extended the arm inside the clutch casing ? An all day one finger clutch is possible without using hydraulics.

  I have been reading them. A lot of info! Thanks! I have a newer style clutch cover from a Can Am that has the bigger actuator balls. I’m going to try it this winter. I noticed the other day my bike is leaking oil from the Kickstarter/shifter area. It leaked a couple of years ago and I replaced the seal and o ring. I will replace them again when I install new cover.

  • 3 months later...
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 I remember someone posting that a good set up on my 1980 SWM 320 with Marzocchi forks is to keep the Marzocchi triple clamps and use the Betor forks? I realized that my spare/project 1980 SWM 320 has the Betor forks and triple clamps. Would it be worth it for me to put the Betor forks (after I go through them) on my competition bike with the Marzocchi triple clamps?

  • Author

 I noticed my front brake arm on the brake hub seems short, would it help to lengthen it or find a longer arm? 

Edited by dozerash

7 hours ago, dozerash said:

 I noticed my front brake arm on the brake hub seems short, would it help to lengthen it or find a longer arm? 

@midlife. Give the man the benefit of your infinite wisdom.

7 hours ago, dozerash said:

 I remember someone posting that a good set up on my 1980 SWM 320 with Marzocchi forks is to keep the Marzocchi triple clamps and use the Betor forks? I realized that my spare/project 1980 SWM 320 has the Betor forks and triple clamps. Would it be worth it for me to put the Betor forks (after I go through them) on my competition bike with the Marzocchi triple clamps?

The 1980 Marzocchi's (imo) were not the best, check the betors are the same length, they are reckoned to be better. Whether you use the betor yokes probably depends on your height. If your taller than 6ft, I'd go for the Marzocchi's.

The Marzocchies are not bad forks they work quite good it is all about the wear and how straight the stanchions still are.

Gilles Burgat started to replace the Marzochi front fork of his 1980/81 SWM because of two reasons:
-  the Betor fork at less stiction and
- the Betor is a shorter in length and the Marzocchi forks a a bit longer too the yokes | triple clamps mount is a bit higher then to them  of the Betor fork. 
Thus the front will be slightly lowerd which will put some extra weight to the front wheel.

With more weight at the front the (in my experience in our sand sections) bad behavior of the SWM pushing the front wheel
straight while doing a tight turn with slight throttle is then in my experience a bit eliminated, for our super techical and thight
sections on loose ground very helpful.

 

   

Edited by pschrauber
Spelling and Sentence issues fixed

  • Author
18 hours ago, b40rt said:

@midlife. Give the man the benefit of your infinite wisdom.

?

  • Author
On 2/28/2020 at 3:17 AM, b40rt said:

@midlife. Give the man the benefit of your infinite wisdom.

?

  • Author

Here is the brake set up on my 1980 TL320 competition bike.

 

5FD5BAC9-FD36-4013-BB3B-A67149EE3974.jpeg

  • Author

Here is the brake set up on my 1982 TL320 spare bike.

 

6B1E3D05-2439-45DD-858B-1B4773138ECB.jpeg

CCCF7E7F-932C-4792-99B9-D113E81ADBEE.jpeg

  • Author

Here is the front brake set up on my 1980 TL320 project bike with Betor forks.

 

006DCE85-DB99-4669-B6FB-5E2C466950E9.jpeg

I have done this switch on my 320, I have marzochi yokes with betor stanchions. 

1, The marazochi yokes have handlebars mounted closer to the centerline of steering axis, so steering allegedly feels quicker ?, not sure I've felt the effect but hey!.

2, the Betor stancions are about 25mm shorter than the marzochi, so again pulling in the front overhang and quickening the steering feel.

Ps the Fantic marazochi yokes have different bearings, and hence a different stem in the yokes.

 

 

  • Author

I might try the Betors off my spare bike, I will need to install a new fender and fork seals. I guess my SWM could turn a little sharper. Might help my results. I just wish I could find a spare set and not take them off the other bike. 

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