New to this forum and new to trials bikes.  I have a 2001 280 that I cant get the clutch to work, the bikes walks or actually runs away.  When I bled the lines very little oil comes out with each pull on the clutch lever.  I cant seem to fine any replacement parts for the clutch either.  Any suggestions for parts?

Sticky clutch plates? Before you start the engine, put the bike in top gear and rock it back and forth with the clutch pulled in until it frees off. Once free and in neutral you can kick it over. Or you can start it, pull the clutch in and ride it around until the clutch frees off. 

There are some videos on the     " trials parts usa "    you tube channel covering this.

There is loads of spares for that type of gas gas engine on ebay,if you clutch plates are not stuck take the clutch rod pusher part of the engine and make sure the cylinder inside is pushed in before bleeding you may have an air stuck inside then rebleed the whole system. 

Your bike is over 19 years old, and by this time the water pump shaft and seal would have worn allowing coolant into the gearbox. If the coolant got into the gearbox, the oil turns a milky looking colour. The water in the oil reacts with the adhesive on the clutch plate fibres, loosening them. The plates then tend to drag a lot. The other problem causing clutch drag is likely with the master cylinder, replacing the kit (DOT 4) is straight forward. The third problem is that the clutch slave piston has a ball bearing at the end of a hole where the clutch pushrod is located. This ball bearing has been known to be forced deeper into the slave piston, with the result that the piston reaches the limit of it's travel (hard up against the crank case) without actually fully disengaging the clutch. Bye, Peter B.

I had one of these. 

A regular job with this model was to pull the clutch plates out and run the steels some emery paper on a flat plate so as to allow oil in between the plates.

The stockers were almost mirror smooth and this fixes the problem.

And considering it's a 20 year old bike, would pay to do all the other stuff too

Thanks everyone.  I will give these a try and keep you all posted.

On 1/15/2021 at 1:23 PM, peterb said:

Your bike is over 19 years old, and by this time the water pump shaft and seal would have worn allowing coolant into the gearbox. If the coolant got into the gearbox, the oil turns a milky looking colour. The water in the oil reacts with the adhesive on the clutch plate fibres, loosening them. The plates then tend to drag a lot. The other problem causing clutch drag is likely with the master cylinder, replacing the kit (DOT 4) is straight forward. The third problem is that the clutch slave piston has a ball bearing at the end of a hole where the clutch pushrod is located. This ball bearing has been known to be forced deeper into the slave piston, with the result that the piston reaches the limit of it's travel (hard up against the crank case) without actually fully disengaging the clutch. Bye, Peter B.

Do you have any photos of the ball bearing or a diagram,I have a tx320 and the clutch drags a bit too

Hi Dazza, I just noticed your question today. I don't have any photos of the ball bearing, do you mean the one embedded in the clutch slave piston? If you ever need a new slave piston kit, they are not so easy to find and are in at least 2 different diameters, 28 and 29mm. Bye, Peter B.