Don't want these Ads? Why not sign up as a Trials Central Supporter.

gwhy

Members
  • Content count

    551
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

3 Followers

About gwhy

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 07/31/1964

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    E-sherco E-bmx

Profile Information

  • Location
    Bristol
  • Gender
    Male

Recent Profile Visitors

8,975 profile views
  1. its not daft .. as you can run it at a lower wattage by using the power limit pot as this is what it does.. Battery voltages are listed as nominal voltage not fully charged voltage, so it all depends what chemistry is used in your cells and how many.
  2. What he said ^^^ But no matter what you do with the power it will never be no where near legal to ride on trails as it will have no tax and no mot and no registration ( well in the uk anyway ).. it would be very easy to set up a switch but you would need to measure the resistance of the dial at the limit you want then replace it with a fixed resistor.
  3. http://www.rc-hero.co.uk/jst-xh-parallel-balance-lead-5s-250mm-6xjst-xh-paraxh5s-6 yes, you will need 2 of these ... 1 for each P'ed set of batterys. yes you will need to leave them connected to the batteries for charging And discharging, you can then also use the LV alarms, treating each block of 3 P'ed batteries as just 1 battery with 1 balance tap lead.
  4. do the indecator show fully charged again soon after he releases the throttle ? , or do it just stay at empty ?
  5. as long as the batterys physically fit in the space then larger capacity batterys would be fine as also as long as all the batterys are the same make and capacity. it the batterys are the same voltage and chemistry then the stock charger should also be fine ..
  6. Sag is set depending on the weight of a rider . the manual is prob a generic factory setting for the shock. Mountain bike shocks dont have the same dynamics as a mc shock so things will be different.
  7. sag should be setup with riders weight i.e with rider onboard and should be around 10-15mm for the rear and it normally higher for the front . bounce about a bit on the bike before taking any measurements..
  8. Yes it can be changed for a pot throttle.. but the throttle may need a bigger initial movement to start the motor also you may have to put a external resistor inline with the pot to give you the correct WOT voltage. The design engineer is correct about changing the power on the fly and can not be done.. but it can be done with some additional electronics that is totally separate from the controller.
  9. if it is a hall throttle on the oset then you need to work out the +5v supply wire and the ground wire to the throttle and the signal wire ( in the wiring diagram it is not clear what wire is what and there is no color code ) with the domino pot throttle the wiper of the pot will connect to the signal wire and the +5v and the ground to either end of the pot ( if the signal wire is connected to the wrong point on a pot throttle this may damage the controller! )
  10. A mechanical relay on anything is always a 98% bad design , when there are much better and more reliable switch options this day and age :-)
  11. there was no need to disconnect the neg at the controller , should have just clipped the neg meter lead to the neg of the battery then carefully check on each pin of the relay. With key switch on yes you should have full battery voltage on 3 of the pins and 0v on the 4th relay pin ( black wire ? ). The relay ground goes directly to the controller ( on the oset diagram that i have ) so now if you still have fully battery volts on all 4 pins then now connect the meter neg directly to the black (thin ) wire connection on the relay then measure the the other 3 pins they should have fully battery voltage on each pin with key switch on.... with the key switch off you should only have battery voltage on 2 of the relay pins ( 1 red thick wire and 1 red thin wire) ... the fact that you had 36v on all 4 pins from your tests I would check connections and wires ( black thin wire ) from the relay back to the controller ( it may not be a black wire because you have upgraded the controller). edit: i just re-read my previous post and it should read with key switch OFF , I have just also thought that if you installed the resistor when you upgrade controller then if the back wire ( thin wire ) from the relay to controller is broken and that will give you 36v on all 4 pins of the relay with how you have measured it
  12. connect the negative meter probe lead directly to the neg of the battery then the pos to each of the thicker wires on the relay, key switch on you should have full battery voltage on only 1 of the fatter wires on the relay (red wire), if you dont have any voltage then it could be the key switch itself , report back if you still have no voltage..
  13. have you checked the voltage at the relay when you turn on the key switch .. do the relay click on ?
  14. Also on a side note.. always put at least some charge back into a battery fitted with a bms after use especially if you don't intend to use it for a good few days, no need to fully recharge it .. charge for maybe a hour before storing it. and always disconnect the battery from the bike never rely on the key switch you fully turn the bike off especially if the bike has a pre-charge circuit fitted as this will drain the battery.
  15. li-ion and lipo cells have the same voltage so can be charged the same , to a absolute max of 4.2v per cell , lifpo4 is different and has a max absolute charged voltage of 3.7v per cell. the chargers are the same and the only difference is the total charge voltage need to be set at the correct output voltage for how many cells you are charging. if the charger states 54.6v and you have counted 13 cells then this is correct for lipo/liion 48v battery. ok now from what you have described my best guess is that you have a faulty cell which is bad news and the bms is shutting the battery down but it could be a faulty bms draining a cell down. can you get access to the bms ? there is a long connector with 14 or 15 thin wires on it .. unplug that connector from the bms then very carefully ( dont short any thing out !! ) measure each cell voltage, this can be done on the long bms connector . connect the neg meter lead to the main neg of the battery then start at one end of the bms connector plug measure each wire using the positive probe of the meter ( use a pin that fits into the hole on th econnector ) as you move along the connector measuring each cell they should all be the same difference between each one i.e a fully charged battery will be hole 1= 4.2v, hole 2=8.4, hole 3= 12.6 ect, and if you start from the other end it will be 54.6, 50.4, 46.2 ect a difference of 4.2v per cell. I think you have a very bad cell in the battery and this will show up if you test this way, as a good battery all the cells will be the same voltage. if there is a low cell then leave the bms connector off for 24 hours then measure again to see if the bad cells voltage comes back up and this will indicate that it is a possible bms fault. I have no idea what it would say 20s super charged on the battery if you counted 13cells ? ... any chance of posting up a pic? the charger will show a error because there is a fault with the battery. One thing you can test though with the charger is measure the output voltage as it should be 54.6v if its lower then this is what have dragged the battery voltage down.. post up results edit: if all the cells are the same voltage then you need to also disconnect the main neg wire that comes from the cells to the bms to stop the bms from doing any more damage.