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About taff_d

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
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  • Bike
    TRS 250 RR
  • Club

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  • Location
    N Yorks
  • Gender

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6,783 profile views
  1. I have used bendy Apico levers for the last 4 years, fantastic never bust a lever but I've always struggled with stalling but put it down to an overactive clutch finger !! My mate convinced me to try the std levers again as he reckoned the bendy lever setup gave a s**te lever movement, done 3 trials now and only 1 stall so no more bendy levers for me. There will be a cheap set of levers on ebay shortly 😜
  2. Believe Jack broke down at Clappergate nearly home 👎
  3. 142 views and 234 views on my other post and not a answer 😳 you Honda owners must be a very shy bunch 🤣 or not very knowledgeable 😜
  4. Anyone know how much oil goes in each leg ?
  5. I have a TLM 220 and I'm needing new headstock bearings, the std OEM bearings are seperate top and bottom races using 1/4 ball bearings and according to the part finches they are the same as the TLR 250, looking on ebay there seems to be taper bearing conversions available for the TLR 200 & 250 can these be fitted without modifications anyone got any part numbers or dimensions for the bearings ?
  6. Did you find any info anywhere ? I'm in a similar position.
  7. Finally got to have a look at the brake, the drum has definitely been sleeved with cast iron and measures the correct 125mm. Measuring over the shoes it reads 123mm (this is with new shoes fitted) is 1mm aside a bit excessive for clearance ? The brake arm spindle is very slack in the brake plate this will need machining and sleeving and the cam profile is worn so I'll have to do a repair on that as well.
  8. Thanks for all the replies, not had a look at it yet but when my bits arrive from inmotion i'll drag it on to the bench and do some fettling and investigations.
  9. Having trouble with my front brake I just can't get it to work, it has new shoes and a new cable. It looks like the the hub has already been sleeved. What I'm after is the diameter of the standard brake drum so I can check for wear, does anyone know it ?? Thanks in advance for any replies.
  10. I have fitted higher bars but did not get ones that are high enough 🙄, another set of bars will be £80 so instead of wasting more money I'm going to lift the clamps, I've ordered 10mm alloy spacers off Ebay for £3.50 and i'm going to get a longer stud (don't think they are bolts) to fasten back on to the top yoke. The bars I fitted are 16.5mm higher and the 10mm I'm going to fit will give me a good inch higher in old money hopefully that will make a difference, I had 6" bars and lowered pegs on the 4rt and that felt good, foolishly I sold the 4rt with the high bars on.
  11. Looking at lifting the bars a touch, had a look at the clamps today and I don't think there is a lot of thread in the bottom clamp where the top clamp bolts on so don't fancy fitting the type of riser that fit in the clamps to add height as that will put more leverage and pressure on the bolt holes and could cause a fracture. Has anyone fitted spacers between the bottom clamp and top yoke on top of the 20mm spigot ? If anyone has does it work ok or any issues ?
  12. Picked up the new bike and done a trial on it, needs higher bars and a slow action throttle but I'm really pleased with it.
  13. My spare 315/4rt rear fits straight in to my 250rr using the Mont spacers
  14. You obviously have not seen me ride, 300 and me should not be mentioned in the same sentence it would be utter carnage 🤣
  15. The 2017 bikes are apparently significantly better on the electric's side, no battery required now. I could be wrong here but I don't think they made a 250 Ice on the 2016 model.