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splatshop

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About splatshop

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    Advanced Member
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  • Website URL
    http://www.splatshop.co.uk

Previous Fields

  • Bike
    Sherco
  • Club
    Sheffield & Hallamshire MC

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  • Location
    Chesterfield
  • Gender
    Male
  1. All the Sherco AJP master cylinders used a slightly different master cylinder and lever to all the other bikes, the distance from the pivot point to the plunger is shorter to make the clutch easier & slower. The original AJP Sherco levers are still available but expensive: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/ajp-silver-clutch-lever-medium-sherco.html Or S3 do a version of their digit levers: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/s3-digit-ajp-grimeca-brake-clutch-levers.html The brake levers are the same as all the rest. Cheers, Tim
  2. Hi Mike, Try using Putoline Nano Trans GP - http://www.splatshop.co.uk/putoline-nano-trans-gp.html When the clutches are worn, it makes a huge difference, you can freshly swap the oil with Putoline Light Gear Oil, and it will slip, change again with Nano Trans and it will work perfectly. Also see the following info below that Chris has done to help people out: The clutch fibre plates are 2.73mm when new The steel plates are 1.53mm new The clutch pressure plate is 5.30mm from where the friction plate makes contact to the outer edge. The clutch hub is 3.00mm from where the friction plate makes contact to the machined outer edge, the hub can also get quite grooved where the steel plates sit causing problems with clutch slipping and sticking. The basket is also prone to getting grooves where the friction plates sit, again causing problems with clutch slipping and sticking. Clutch springs can loose their springiness, the free length of the spring from new should be 45mm, if they get below 44mm they will cause slippage in high gears under high load. If the spring have shrunk replace the springs http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-clutch-springs.html or we do some washers to put extra tension on the springshttp://www.splatshop.co.uk/shim-washer-14x20x1-din-988.html We have found the main reason for the clutch to drag (other than mucky oil) to be the friction face's on the hub and the pressure plate been out of square, so if you have the equipment it might be worth clocking up the friction face and the clamping face to ensure they are parallel to each other, if not you can give the friction faces a quick clean up on the lathe assuming there is enough material left. With these faces being made of aluminium they usually wear more than the friction plates. Also I assume you have changed the oil recently, if not I'd recommend changing it. I personally change my gear oil every couple of months so it probably gets changed about every 8 times I ride the bike, this helps keep the clutch working well. The oil type makes quite a noticeable difference to the response of the Clutch, Putoline Nano Trans GP is the best oil we've tried in the Sherco, especially with the clutch, it's pretty good with the gear shifting too and it seams to work for a long time before it needs changing.http://www.splatshop.co.uk/putoline-nano-trans-gp.html Ipone's Box Xtrem is also pretty good and not quite as pricey http://www.splatshop.co.uk/ipone-box-x-trem-1ltr.html See the picture below for the washer that might be missing that causes very bad clutch slippage (highlighted in red) http://www.splatshop.co.uk/sherco-washer-a82035.html This washer behind the clutch hub should also be 1mm thick The clutch thrust bearing is 2mm thick The washer for the above bearing is 1mm thick Cheers, Tim
  3. The new Braktec callipers use an M8 banjo, they are slightly more expensive but you don't need to swap the hose: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/braktec-4-pot-front-brake-calliper-silver.html
  4. We have still not been told by Sherco that it has been discontinued, so there is a chance they will hopefully get some more made at some point in the future. Glad to see you have found one.
  5. Jitsie make some: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/jitsie-ajp-replacement-lever-bushes.html
  6. There is supposedly a new version of the IRC's coming soon.
  7. Hopefully they will take off, they are certainly as competitive as petrol for all riders except for those at the top level. But I think it will only be a few years before you see them be good enough for the very top riders. But now we have a bike that is loads easier to learn how to ride than a petrol bike, is very competitive all the way up to a high expert standard, with the benefit of it been fairly silent, unable to stall, really easy to maintain and costs pennies to charge up. Electric Motion are talking about competing in the SSDT as soon as possible, hopefully we can make this happen in the next couple of years. This will be a big achievement, and very exciting to have the 1st ever electric bike to do the SSDT. I see the big turning point for electric trials bike will be electric only competitions on land that you just couldn't use with petrol bikes, it would be quiet possible to have an electric trial in land next to housing estates. Everyone who I have met with a problem against motorbikes, it is nearly always to do with the noise. Being on the EM you get the same reaction as if you were on a mountain bike, it would be nice to get back riding on some of the land we have lost around here in the last few years.
  8. Just the 1 battery, after the 2nd lap I did stop for 15min to have my lunch and plugged it in to give it a little bit extra juice, when I finished the trial it was just under half life on the battery so it would have easily managed the whole trial without the little charge. It has a little bit more resistance than a petrol bike when rolling the bike, but they are easy enough to push around. There isn't any engine braking unless you press the regenerative braking button or pull in the clutch lever. It then gives a reasonable amount of engine braking. It just has the 1 gear, speed wise the electric motor compared to a petrol bike will take you from slower than 1st to about 3rd gear. You get used to not using the clutch, and they have made the motor control that progressive the throttle isn't like an on/off switch, just touching the throttle is that slow, on a petrol bike you would need to slip the clutch in 1st to get the same speed.
  9. It was me riding at the British Round yesterday on the EM, it was the first British Round I have ever done and it was a little bit hard for my riding level, but managed to get though most of the sections. I'll try and answer any questions. The bike did very well, I would have thought one of the top riders would be able to win or get at least top 3 on the expert route on this bike. It managed to get up all the steps, and it is so smooth with the power. I don't know how well it would be able to manage the championship route, but then to me most of those sections look impossible on my petrol bike. The clutch is just a switch at the moment, you can pull the clutch, put it on full throttle and dump the clutch, and it will instantly give you 100% of the power, I have not managed to get the hang of this though. For most steps you can just ride it on the throttle, because the motor gives off so much low down torque, it will start to pull even on really steep stuff, where a petrol bike you need to keep the revs up and slip the clutch, on the EM it will just keep pulling up it. It is hard to get used to not using the clutch, because the motor can go so slow, where normally you would slip the clutch going round technical corners, you don't need to with the EM. It's running a 57 tooth rear sprocket, but on a 428 pitch chain. But it's not something that is comparable with petrol bikes. It also runs a belt drive reduction between the motor and the front sprocket. Please put any picture you got on here, or email them over to me please, would love to see some. Any questions, please ask. Cheers, Tim Pearson
  10. We have a freshly replated 250cc GasGas barrel in stock http://www.splatshop.co.uk/used-gasgas-pro-cylinder-250cc.html you also need the piston and cylinder head (or just the 250 insert if you have a later bike). As Nigel says why do you need a 250cc, the ACU limit is 125cc for A and B class on a modern bike.
  11. Hi BigMark has emailed me so hopefully we'll have sorted him out, here's a little info on the stators for future reference. There are two different but very similar Leonelli stator plates, so it's always best to remove your flywheel and check which you have before ordering. The old style has the wire loom coming out of a slot on the back of the stator plate, this is found on bikes from late 2002 to some time around 2004 / 2005 ish depending on the cc of the bike. This replaced the earlier Ducati stator and ignition system with the Blue CDI. The new style has the wire loom coming out of a drilled hole 90 degrees away from the slot on the back of the stator plate, the stator is rotated by about 90 degrees so it has a different flywheel to suit (well it's the same flywheel but it has the grove for the woodruff key in a different place). These stators were first used in 2004 I think probably just on the 290 and then they put them on the other bikes later, they were used till they swapped to the twin map ignition. Unfortunately Sherco used the same part numbers for both stators so it's very difficult to know which bikes have which.
  12. Once drained, put the drain screw/plug back in and lay the bike on its side, so the kickstart lever is on top. The filler plug is to the top right of the clutch cover. Fill with 450ml of a 75W gear box oil. http://www.splatshop.co.uk/oils-lubricants/gear-box-oil/sae-75w.html The best 75W oil we have used with a Sherco clutch is Putoline Nano Trans: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/putoline-nano-trans-gp.html
  13. Chris did a guide, I hope this helps. http://www.splatshop.co.uk/kickstart-return-spring-fitting-guide.html
  14. It is possible to run a normally closed circuit lanyard so when your child falls off the bike stops: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/lanyard-kill-switch-non-magnetic.html Or you can use an On/Off switch as a stop button: http://www.splatshop.co.uk/kill-light-switch-on-off-toggle-switch.html
  15. I will try and clarify this for you. The AJP 9.5mm seal kits http://www.splatshop.co.uk/ajp-master-cylinder-seal-kit-9-5mm.html are available with 2 different sized plungers, the piston in both kits is identical. The plunger is the part that sits in between the piston and the lever. It fits in the rubber boot and has a spring around it. For some reason different AJP master cylinders come with different length plungers over the years, most bikes use the 22mm plunger. Both kits will work, using the right length plunger will mean you won't need to adjust the free play screw on your lever.