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About wheelieman14

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Previous Fields

  • Bike
    '16 Beta Evo 300
  • Club
    MMC - NETA

Profile Information

  • Location
    Unionville, CT (USA)
  • Gender
  1. Motivated to try something newer, since you dropped a point at the last event???
  2. Here in the USA, I looked at Ford Transit Connect LWB and a single Trials bike should fit no problem. The SWB seemed too short.
  3. Interested in getting this for 2003 SY250 & gladly pay postage to 06085 (Unionville, CT USA)
  4. A couple of us '16 Beta EVO 300 2T riders modified the white Domino "Fast-Action" Throttle tubes with a couple hacksaw blades taped together to cut a groove for throttle cable to pivot around a slightly lower (3mm) O.D. and blend the cut back to full height at 1/4 turn (90 degrees) to make a "Slow-to-Fast" action throttle. Gives us an advantage of having much more control just off idle - without having to turn the throttle as far as installing slow-action throttle. This modification, along with adding 1 or 2 teeth to use a slightly larger rear sprocket; has worked so well, that I decided not to bother with heavier Flywheel (Super Smooth has heavier flywheel and 9T front sprocket that REALLY tames down the 300).
  5. Watch 2 or 3 people ride your line in a Section, to make sure you can identify exactly where the front wheel needs to be; to get the rear wheel to get over/around any obstacles in the tighter turns. Have Fun and don't take this sport too seriously. Elbows out and hands loose on the bars. Look up to see where you want to go and don't fixate on what is just in front of your front wheel. Any time spent going as slow as you can in 1st gear (even in a paved driveway) will help you with the required balance to excel at MotoTrials.
  6. I measured black (slow) throttle tube to be 25 mm Outside Diameter, where throttle cable is rubbing against, which takes about 120 degrees to turn throttle to wide open. I also measured white (fast) Domino Throttle tube to be 31.4mm O.D. - creating a "quick turn" action; since it only takes 98 degrees to open carb slide. With about 26.1 to 26.5mm of carb slide movement, Black (slow) takes 4.6 degrees to move slide 1 mm and White (fast) takes only 3.7 degrees to move slide 1 mm. Personally, I prefer a slow action throttle from idle to about 1/4 throttle (makes a huge difference in throttle control in tight slow sections). I also like the ability to get to wide open much faster with a fast throttle (not having to turn throttle 120 degrees). My solution was to cut down height of white plastic where cable attaches, by 3 mm - cutting groove with 2 hacksaw blades taped together and blending the cut to flush at about 90 degrees (where throttle cable rests at full throttle). A "modified" Domino White "Fast" throttle tube to be "Slow to Fast" seems to be working very well for me on Beta Evo 300 without a Flywheel weight.
  7. For the better part of 2 years, I was using Silkolene SX Pro2 (higher flashpoint than Motul 710 2T) at 80:1 and kept struggling to get good spark plug readings using 95 to 98 octane equivalent with mix of 1 to 2 parts 108-110 Octane leaded race fuel with 3 parts 91 octane non-ethanol pump gas in Trials bike. I recently switched over to Motul 710 2T pre-mix at 80:1 and now find it much easier to get the carb jetting dialed in and near perfect spark plug readings on my Trials bike. I'd prefer to keep using around 64:1 on my 250cc 2T Woods bikes that are typically run at much higher engine rpms, but 80:1 is best for Trials bikes as heffergm mentioned above.
  8. A good indication for me that I picked the correct class, is finishing with an Index (total points dropped / sections ridden) of .500 or less. If my Index is .75 to 1.0+, then it could still be the correct class for me, but perhaps the conditions deteriorated quickly or rain changed traction. If I get more than 2.0 points per section average, then I feel I was in too hard of a class and need to drop down a level, or practice more to improve. I started Senior C in August 2015, felt pretty good and bumped up to Senior B in May 2016. Worked an event watching Senior Intermediate and thought their lines were within my abilities. Quickly found out that some locations have much harder Intermediate lines that others and got frustrated finishing in last place, so dropped back to SR-B and started having fun again. Decided to stick with SR-B for championship chase in 2017, with occasional attempts at Intermediate at out of region events, to pick up my skills a bit quicker.
  9. Thanks for the replies. This must be an early 2012, because it doesn't have the newer design that includes fixer nut. Found a couple pieces of shifter drum and/or shift shaft pawl that broke off. Some abnormal wear on the clutch drive/driven gears and seems like a good job for an OSSA Shop like - assuming that parts are still available somewhere.
  10. Friend's 2012 Ossa TR280 got stuck in 1st gear after a crash, so we decided to help him try and remove the "5" 3mm allen bolts holding the cassette transmission/clutch assembly. We finally got all 5 bolts out, but now we are puzzled by some reference to "clutch fixer nut". Removed crankcase breather elbow from just in front of front sprocket and not having any luck to figure out how to secure a hollow passageway to remove LH-thread fixer nut, or even where it is located. Has anyone else ever pulled Ossa cassette transmission & what did you do to remove after 5 bolts are out? Tried hitting countershaft (with sprocket removed) with dead blow plastic mallet, but shaft seems like there is another step we are missing...
  11. Hence the reason why I gladly upgraded my 2012 to a 2016 with relatively low hours.
  12. You can do a compression test for a baseline. I'm guessing my 2012 GG280 had well over a couple hundred hours on it and never even pulled off the head to look at it. Thankful that Trials bikes are mostly ridden at low engine RPM, so the top-ends last a very long time.
  13. Having tried Michelin X-Light, X11 Competition (came on '16 Beta Evo 300) and Dunlop D803GP, I've noticed even a worn X11 provides some pretty amazing grip, but doesn't seem to be available option to purchase in USA. I've also used a couple sets of D803GP and when the pressure is properly set for the conditions - feel the Dunlop is just as good as either Michelin model for significantly less money. I watched a video from RYPUSA putting aluminum tape (4 layers) on a Morad rim to get a better seal at the bead and help prevent slow leaks with tubeless rear trials tires. I use generous amounts of "tire slick" tire mounting lube and seem to get a better seal than new tires installed from the (Beta) Factory. having reversed direction of rear tire at 28 hours ride time.
  14. Nice job on making appropriate adapters to fit your GasGas rear wheel to Beta!
  15. It would be nice if there was an aftermarket kit to adapt various wheels between different manufacturers. FWIW, I measured '12 GasGas TXT Racing rear hub at about 143mm (5-5/8") wide, compared to 155.5mm (6-1/8") for my '16 Beta Evo 2T. Since the GG rear hub is about 12.5mm (1/2") narrower, I think you need to relocate brake rotor & sprocket further out as you suggested. Perhaps it is worth starting a thread for possible wheel swaps...