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About scifi

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    N Wales
  1. Hi Guys, our club trial has a section that is around a tree then down a steep bank, then a tight turn at the bottom and over a tree log. This gets me nearly ever time on my TY175. The engine takes in too much fuel from the Mikuni on the downhill, and stalls at the bottom of the bank. I have ridden that section by keeping the engine revving going downhill, but there must be a cure for the Carb. I think the float chamber has a breather hole at the top, which with the bike pointing downwards, pours neat fuel into the engine. the fact that the carb is already angled 20 degrees down does not help. .
  2. They look good Jon. Just found one remaining Castrol Arrow in my garage, red with the green Castrol roundel, and loads of nail holes..! There is a firm called Running Imp that does Big Yellow Arrows, and many other bespoke designs, but they are costly. I think most Cycle Clubs have to now use these standard types of traffic warning signs at their events.
  3. Hi Jon, I am sorry to hear that you had to pay for your Castrol Arrows, we always took them as being promotional material that they gave us. When I used to cycle for our local push-bike club, we had to only wear our sponsors jersey, and were not allowed by the organising body to wear any commercial names that were not sponsoring us. Looking at the usual field of riders in local trials, I often wonder why riders are wearing sponsors names, without being paid to do so.. Maybe the ACU should clamp down on this free publicity.
  4. This is a bit like doing Heart Surgery by Telepathy.... There is one thing we don't know... How far does your clutch lever move..? I measured the ball-end moves 90-100mm from fully out to the handlebars. There are two adjusting screws that set the start position, and the free-play, which may need adjusting.
  5. Many years ago, before front wheelies became popular, we used to take our bikes for scruitineering with the brake adjusted to lock the front wheel. After being scruitinised, we would loosen the brake so that it would not bind... The reason being that we did not want to cause a front wheel slide in the sections, if we grabbed the brake too quickly. But I suppose you now want to do front wheel pivot turns..!
  6. Could be he has cut the tubes there, and wants some more strengthening on his welds. Or it's a mud-guard !
  7. Hi Guys, just taken the cover off a 2008 250 Rev3, and it has plain washers. As far as my digital callipers could see, the movement was just about 1.2mm. It could be that you would get less movement if there are small air bubbles in the hydraulic line. However there may be several different types of slave and master cylinder combinations, to give different amounts of movements. .
  8. Using Laminated A4 is not really so good in British weather, any nail holes let the water in and the ink-jet print smears very quickly. It might last a bit longer if you use a Laser Printer, but the paper does get soggy. I think our club found a cheap supply of Corex boards, and used black enamel paint for the words, the signs have lasted many years. You will also need some brightly coloured plastic flags to mark out the different routes through your sections. . Last time I had some Castrol arrows (40 years ago.) they wanted to charge me for them.! I think they said that they were dropping out of further publicity schemes. .
  9. I started on bikes when there were basically two classes for road racing, 250 or 500. Surely these new 'Supersport', 'Superstock' classes are just road going bikes, which would suffer from any of these new rules.? Or, maybe ABS is the way to go in road-racing. .
  10. A friend of mine used a RE Constelation in trials, but there was one section that he would not attempt as it could be painful. It was a muddy section with a two foot tree log to cross. Not so impossible on a TY175, but a team rescue job for the RE. .
  11. I used to do Mountain Biking as well as Motorcycling, and found that some of the more expensive chains took about 3 hours to bed-in. During this time they would jump the small 11-13 tooth rear sprockets (why I don't know!).. The cure occurred quickly when riding through mud, as they would soon wear-in. To check if they were excessively worn, you lay the chain on the bench, and 10 links would be 10.0 inches. When this changed to 10.1 inches the chain was worn, and if it reached 10.2 inches it was knadgered. We sometimes used anti-fling chain-saw oil on our chains, as we had a few gallons of the stuff. .
  12. Yes the air screw does make a difference, the books say set for a peak of the revs, but setting a bit further rich may give a better response to a blip of the throttle. Chain-saw manuals always say to set the fast running jet for maximum revs then richen to reduce the revs by about 1000rpm, to ensure the best mixture when under load. .
  13. Looks like you need to be sure that the clutch lever piston is free to fully return to its start position, as it opens the reservoir port there. If you have got the clutch cover off, you could check that the pressure plate is moving out whilst you pull the clutch lever. Not too sure of the actual movement, but it should be near 5mm or so. .
  14. My local Beta supplier does not list the stepped washers, so I am in the process of making some on the lathe. There are several possible combinations to get the lowest amount of pressure and still have no slip. You could have all 6 pointing outwards for the max pressure, or reverse 2, 3, 4 or all, to keep the pressure plate balanced. ( My Beta has just plain washers at present.) .
  15. 'At the beginning of the revs' would be in the range where the slide cut-away plays an important part. You could try sticking your thumb in the inlet, just before the slide, and seeing if the additional choke-restriction helps remove the flat spot. We had a Honda that hesitated at this throttle opening, and as we couldn't get a slide with less cut-away, we ground 1mm off the engine side of the slide, to lower the cut-away down a bit... it cured the problem, but you do that type of mod at your own peril..! .