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woody

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About woody

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  1. Sherpa fork caps

    I use a drop of araldite
  2. Montesa Cota 349 gear box

    From memory, as it's a while since I did one, the toothed cam on the selector has a notch scribed into it which should line up with a dot on the gear behind the 'starfish' wheel, which puts the gearbox in neutral. The notch on the cam is towards the uppermost end Is the 'starfish' the wrong way around, I thought it had a recess on its outward face around the shaft and also may have a dot on it to line up with the notch on the cam when in neutral. I think the long finger top left whose tip is hidden should face rearwards, not forwards. This is all from memory but worth a check which will only take a couple of minutes from where you are now
  3. Sherpa fork caps

    I've never stopped these things spewing oil other than by blocking the hole. Some will say that causes pressurisation in the fork as air can't escape but I've never had any issues doing this. In the bottom of the fork spring there is a deflector which is presumably to stop oil being sprayed out of the top of the damper rod like a water cannon, these are often missing after numerous rebuilds over the years. Whether they help stop oil being forced up the tube and out of the caps I don't know - possibly...
  4. OSSA MAR 4 speed?

    That's a MAR and they were all 5 speed. Announced in 1971 they didn't go into production until 1972 due to the factory being flooded
  5. Ossa MAR alloy tank.

    MK1 and MK2 were fitted with the same fibreglass tank from the factory, just a different style of green stripe. There are several places that sell repro glass tanks. UK bikes from '73/74 had the original tanks replaced with a UK made alloy tank I forgot that Classic Trial in France also make a UK style alloy tank but it's pretty expensive at over £500
  6. Ossa MAR alloy tank.

    New tank or used? New, Miller used to do a replacement but I guess they're long gone and in Spain, Ossacels sell an alloy tank which is a copy of the UK tank. I don't know of anyone who has bought one of those so haven't heard any reports about quality of fit etc. You can 'open out' the original UK tanks so I guess you could do the same with one of these. Years ago I closed up the gap on my tank which was too wide simply by leaning hard on it with it on the floor (down facing side protected) If it's a used original UK tank it could have been through all sorts of adventures but same as above, you can just open it out which is better than altering the frame lugs and rubbers
  7. OSSA MAR 4 speed?

    The 4 speed was an Ossa Pennine, their first trials bike developed by Mick in 1967/8 and which evolved into the 5 speed MAR in 1971. The 4 speed was available in the US as on the promotional video people are riding them at one of Mick's schools They were dark green with yellow stripes on tank and mudguards, production version looked more like an enduro/scrambles bike than a trials bike I think the official Ossa name was Pluma
  8. OSSA MAR MK3 Horn Mount?

    Yes the horn goes there although I've never seen one. Probably some of the specialists ion Spain may sell them as they do a lot of original and repro parts. In the UK, no idea apart from being luck on ebay - but the chances of one working if you found one.... This place has a big range of parts http://www.motosdelabuelo.com/
  9. what bultaco engine used in this racer

    Worth loads of money they are. All the Bultaco engines are essentially the same carcass, just different states of tune and gears to suit their application. The outward appearance changed in early seventies when they went from the round barrel and rounded cases to the square barrel and slimmer cases as fitted on your 175
  10. 175 convention bultaco

    125 frame probably isn't any smaller or much lighter as the 125 motor still uses full size crankcases. Apart from the twin downtubes, the rest of it looks like a 250 frame from '76 to '78 which used the shorter forks. It even has the bend at the top of the downtubes. I think the only reason the 125 appears to be a smaller bike is the wheels are 20/17 so it sits a bit lower, there is only about an inch or so difference in height between 125 and bigger bikes. The 125 frame was supposedly a prototype for the 250/325 bikes but discarded in favour of continuing with the single downtube (not sure how that would have worked with the side exhaust port unless they were developing a new cylinder) Overall it was prbably a bit lighter but much of that may have come from the smaller top end and possibly a smaller crank assembly A friend of mine had a new 125 and it was truly gutless
  11. 175 convention bultaco

    The 175 uses the same frame as the 250cc (actually 238cc) model 190 Sherpa. The 250 frame from '76 to '78 had the bend at the top of the downtube. The motor is a 250 with cylinder sleeved down to 174cc. This capacity was basically done for rental companies in holiday resorts as the maximum capacity that could be ridden without a licence was 175. I think most of the 175 bikes were for the rental market with dual seats (which may explain the longer rear frame loop than a M190) but some were made as 175 Sherpa T. Don't know about them having a different crank assembly or lighter flywheel but converting to 250 is a top end swap or boring back to 250 (not sure if the head would need modifying for the bigger bore, I've never had one apart so don't know if the 175 has a different combustion chamber) If you need more info speak to Dave Renham at In Motion The 175 uses a 25mm carb whereas the 250 had a 27mm. The 250 would run fine on a 25mm as the early 325 engines used a 25mm carb. The 175 had a higher 1st gear than the other bikes but the rest were the same as the 250/325.
  12. Montesa 349 what year???

    The 349/4 is a very underrated bike, handles well, great power, grips well, just let down by the clutch if ever it needs to be used in sections, I had the 350 version. The 330 was a seperate model though, completely different from the 349 and a different chassis prefix from 51
  13. Montesa 349 what year???

    Not sure you can date a 349 from the frame number as I don't think it is recorded anywhere. There were three models types of 349 and all start 51. You need a picture really
  14. Modern internals for Bultaco Sherpa

    HFS internals won't change the damping as they are for spring rate only. If you're going to use them you might just want to get the clubman version which is springs only. The expert version has an air cartridge to further enhance spring rate but I tried one and the cartridge was a real pain to set up with the correct pressure. A friend has the clubman version and they work fine which is what I'd get if I was going HFS again (I sold the expert version it frustrated me that much). There are also Magical springs which work well You might want to look at the piston on the end of the damper rod. From a certain year these were fitted with fibre seals to help sealing and these have usually worn down letting oil past the piston which reduces damping effect. You can't buy new replacements but you can make the out of the correct thickness PTFE card. Early models didn't have the seal and are just a plain steel bush so if properly worn and damping is really poor with constant topping out there isn't much you can do other than make new ones. 15W oil is heavy but if that's what it needs to help your damping, then that's what you have to use but mine varies between 5 and 10w
  15. M49 rear wheel spindle reassembly

    Might be worth also checking the swingarm to see if it's bent. I had one which must have been clattered on one side as both arms were pointing to the right when you looked at it from the back of the bike with the wheel out and I had to straighten both back into line using another arm as a guide. If you look at your bike from the back are the shocks upright as if the are leaning a bit, it could show the swingarm is out of line? You shouldn't have to offset snail cams really, I have a few Bultacos and have never had to do that. The chainguards all run close and rub a bit, even the tensioner can rub on them. The spindle on the speedo side is wasted for the threads so a larger diameter washer is needed where the solid part of the spindle protrudes by a mill or two and has to be that thick otherwise the spindle nut won't pull up against the arm, just the ridge on the spindle. You let Spence loose on your wheels..... only joking, he's a good bloke. I've probably ridden past your 'back garden' on many occassions over the years
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