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Hi all, just a bit more info that might help you all out with dragging clutches. As you are aware if you read my other posts, I fitted an Aprilia TX311 clutch hub to my 83 TL320. That along with the 12mm ball bearing conversion did make a huge difference. However, I recently came across a new steel internal clutch arm (the one with the kit is cast aluminium and difficult to extend) which I extended by 10mm, this again made the clutch pull a tad lighter. when riding the bike in practice or events I noticed the clutch developed a bit of drag, not enough to stall the bike but enough to make finding neutral a pain while waiting in turn at a section. I initially thought this is the plates sticking because when roughed up it seems to cure it. I obtained some new steel plates from motoswm as Martin sells the type with dimples that retain the oil better and built the stack up to the correct Aprilia spec. When I put it all together something just didn’t seem right, I’d not changed anything other than the plates but it appeared that the stack was very snug in the basket depth wise, almost not enough room for the friction plates to move about. I tried the bike and it just stalled and even when I got it going the clutch just wouldn’t clear???? I pulled it apart again and got hold of the Aprilia basket I bought with the hub. I’d been using the SWM basket as they are identical or so I thought, I measured the depth of friction plates slots in both baskets, the SWM basket came up at 29mm and the Aprilia 31mm. I fitted the Aprilia basket and reduced the stack height to a fraction just under the spec buy fitting one or two of the older plates, put it all back together and tried it….no drag, no stall, ok let’s try it out in practice. Rode it for four hours in practice which is probably more than you would in an event as your not stopping so much and had no issues at all, was as easy to find neutral at the end as it was at the start. hopefully this is an end to the SWM clutch woes oh and I use 80w oil to. Not sure if this will help out but worth a look next time you’re in the motor. I’ve attached a couple of pics showing the difference in hubs.

Both air and water are necessary for iron to rust. Remove the O2 (Oxygen) and the H2O (Water) and you have no Iron oxidation. ... and for those who did not pay attention in high school, now you know how to prevent rust from happening 🤓

20000 sq. meters burned down according to the news. This is whole Spain Honda facility as per the map

Not enough information yet to know but it appears it is only the storage area and not the production area has been affected. So theoretically nothing stopping them from manufacturing new parts. It's a waiting game at the moment as I doubt Honda/Montesa fully know the stock that they have lost yet, let alone make future decisions.

would you keep your very smart advices with you please as they are basically useless Repeat - Main question for me is availability of the engine parts in the future due to burned down factory. Wonder why there no any press release or other information from Honda Motorsport?

Did you ever get your Climber going? Did you find a aftermarket CDI or complete ignition system?

Cool, you got below 70!

Dont buy one then

obviously here

You can call it freeze, you can call it stuck, you could even call it bunged up but the truth is it's the result of rust and we all know how to make things rust fast.

When has anybody ever needed an engine part for a 4rt?

Anyone knows consequences of the fire please? I consider buying used 2023 4ride from a buddy but now doubt Honda is going to rebuild the factory. Main question for me is availability of the engine parts in the future. Any advice on this regard is welcomed)

I'm thinkin' your probably right on that, guy53! I would do my GasGas 280's steering head bearings, swingarm pivot, and linkage in the winter (once a year), and it came apart and went back together fairly easily. On most of my MX and Enduro bikes I've owned over the years, once a year seemed good enough for those bikes. My Suzuki DR200 has been done once in the 4 years or so I've owned that one, but it gets ridden very little. It's my "other bike"......... But with the kinda "special" swingarm pivot bolt they give you with the Sammy Miller footpeg relocating kit (wider/longer length than the stock pivot bolt, due to the thicknesses of the new foopeg brackets), I believe I'm gonna need to do this greasing job a bit more frequently. I don't wanna take a chance on that "special" pivot bolt getting stuck like the stock one did.........

From my experience even if you grease regularely the swingharm it still '' freese '' , I think the answer is to take the swingharm apart a couple time a year clean regrease ..... Guy

I found that I could make bushings fit better compared to stock replacements and they lasted longer, ymmv. but I also rebuilt microtomes for ~40 years. It's the front end of the TY250A plus the foot-pegs, steel bars, hand controls and stock tires that need the most upgrading ... the stock TY kickstart lever was terrible and with some work can be replaced with something far superior off a period street bike. Wheel bearings are one of the highest service and replacement items on any trials bike, with 2 TRS on the go I buy SKF bearings 10 at a time. If your brake and clutch cables are old it's well worth replacing them for the performance gains at the lever.

You're fortunate to own a lathe, Lemur. I wish I had one. Ran one for Boeing for 20+ years before retiring. I would probably do something like you did as well if I had a lathe. Would try to add spiral lube grooves to the i.d. as we did frequently for bushings I made, to allow grease to flow in....... How often do you take stuff apart to slather some grease in there? I hope that you don't have the problems getting stuff apart like I did on mine. No telling how long mine went without any sort of regular disassembly, cleaning, and re-greasing....... Here's a picture of my recently removed swingarm pivot bushing that shows the cross drilling. Are all TY250's inner bushing cross drilled like mine is?

Considering you haven't even specified the model or year 😕 might be far more productive if you post a photo of what you have. ... or refer to the parts diagrams and service manuals available online.

I have a beta 250 trails bike no spark changed every part no spark now someone is saying that the stator is in the wrong place has any got a photo showing the right place it needs to be

Titanium header

Ok. Managed to sort it. The wire from the led was crimped to the red wire instead of the switched red/black wire. It looked like a factory crimp inside the loom. Also found a resistor in the same handle bar loom. 🤷 Not sure what that's about. But I'll leave well enough alone. It's working sweet as now

Hi guys. I've got a new to me em 5.7 around 2012 (no idea how to figure out the year) Basically the green light is always on. No matter if the battery is switched off or the switch gear is off. The only way I can turn off the green light is to disconnect the wiring at the 2 amp fuse . The handle bar switch appears to work for killing the bike. But the green light remains on regardless. I'm guessing this isn't right. I'll pull the switch apart and have a look. But any advice appreciated. Cheers