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Hi all. Im looking at selling my 2006 gas gas txt 200. Just wondering if there is much interest in the 200's and what sort of money they are worth? I know there is not many of them about and they have a niche fan base. Its in decent nick and needs nothing. Any info would be much apprieciated. Cheers

https://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/021-760_su.html

I saw a video on Facebook today with a 2027 Gasgas, which apparently is almost identical to '25 and '26. (Sorry, I can't find the video again to give a link.)

If by "sportsman" you mean easy route (why can't we get some standardisation of terminology? 😡), then you will have no problem at all.

AJP hub 36x SS spokes Akront light version rim NG SS lighter disc Freno pads Ergal front axle and machined gripster nut

Hi All, Just rebuilding a 250 37a and thinking of changing to electronic ignition. My question is, what is available and who's had best experience. I've used Electrex World on a B40 and a Bantam, both fine after a bit of fettling, but a disaster on a 250 Yamaha, ended up scrapping and fitting an alternative. Any advice welcome

I'm surprise that the price is so high in the UK, Here in Canada Price are as low as in the U.S., so low that the use market is way down. Guy

-4kg 🤩 Way better shock rebound lower gravity center (less weight and shorter suspensions) Better front brake : new front wheel with AJP hub, NG brake disc and Freno blue pads

Not seeing that discounting here in UK. (I might buy one if they were! ) Perhaps the dealer is clearing stock as they move franchise?

Not Torrot , Black Toro Capital an investment company owns Torrot and the 40% share of the GasGas business.

The name and number codes on electronic components often help with their identification.

4993 resistor would be 499 kiloohms I'm going to wild guess that makes a low beam happen and the rectifier would support a horn which requires DC. ... a resistor that powerful would almost kill all the voltage coming from the 6 volt system so not sure about the resistor purpose, the Bultaco schematic does show the resistor. Another diagram refers to a current stabilizer, the resistor would be to stop the bulbs from burning out and the rectifier is also needed to charge a battery if so equipped. Incandescent lights can operate on non rectified voltage.

I'd say the short spring goes inside the rubber boot between where the piston and the pusher rod which the lever acts on. Photos would help.

I can't help you with the wiring but that picture is '' the '' real reminder of my first bike yes a 116 ( 160000295 ), its the first picture of an Alpina with the small push in gas cap and the one piece tank and side cover I see in a long time. Yours seem to have the '' banana '' exhaust as mine was equiped with the small triangle too restrictive one. A real nice bike congratulation. Guy

Hi Guys Was wondering what anyone can tell me about one of these. its a TLM50 i think from Japan. And was planning to have as much fun as my 60 year old bones will let me. Any info greatly received

Hello all Hi my name is Hal and I'm 66 years old and own a Bultaco Alpina #116. I have been riding since 1971 and have owned the Alpina for 3 years. I am in the process of rewiring the headlight, taillight. The model year is 1974 and it has a Lucas hi-lo/ horn button combination switch. The headlight is also a lucas unit with red high beam indicator. I have run all new wires on the machine the resistor and diode tests good. Does anyone have a schematic for the headlight? There was also a small lucas diode bolted to the inside of the headlight bucket and that tests no good, was this diode original or did somebody add it in? Also the bike is still on points and condenser I am familiar with lucas wiring and know which wires are Hi and Low. I am trying to get it legal so I can register it, I certainly would not entertain riding at night with a 6 volt headlight. Thank you for any help or insight that you may have. Thank Hal in CT.

2x 7075 washers M10 3.5mm

Hope this helps. Also, google wiring diagrams for your bike and lots of images will show up.

Having a go at rebuilding a grimeca front brake master cylinder off a 2014 125 beta. Had all sorts of problems trying to bleed it and even bought a syringe to try and reverse bleed it. I managed to get fluid up to the end of the brake hose but not into the reservoir. I ordered a new seal kit and my thinking was just to strip it down, clean everything, and replace the seals. Two questions, the seal kit comes with an O ring which I don’t know where it goes, I know the other two seals but when I’ve stripped it I’ve not seen the O ring. The other question is in the other rebuild kit which you can get has an extra spring which again cannot find it. Mine has the longer spring but not the short one. Not sure if someone has stripped it before and left the parts out. Does anyone know anything about where the O ring and spring goes and do I need them? thanks for any help

Yes in actual trials terrain and riding at a sportsman level it will be fine, but I bet it does not make it any easier to ride and where it will fall short is on serious long steep climbs that require using max power on the larger displacement version.

While waiting for the titanium screws, new for the Climber.The original unrestored shock absorber works without leakage but is slow. Rather than restoring it, I'm going to test an assembly from a new aluminum Sachs. Shorter than 5 mm, I will raise the fork in its tees to keep the original plate. Lowering the center of gravity can be a plus and this generation of motorcycle had a good ground clearance. To see, otherwise I will make a custom-bound screed. The weight when it drops by more than 1kg. Good for the weight and the center of gravity all this!

Does the 200cc model have enough power for a 183 lbs. sportsman rider?

Hi can anyone tell me how to put electrics E.G. lights/horn/brake light on my 1976 TL 125 wiring diagram would be brill cheers Mark.

Wow.....thank you for this comprehensive and super helpful information. You rock and I can't wait to see and ride it in a few weeks.

Give yourself plenty of time to adjust to the bike, many throw the towel in far too early. Make sure you get a workshop manual, they are brilliant. If you plan to keep the bike long term and like to do some tinkering, I’d advise doing a proper PDI on the bike. Grease the headstock bearings, they are lacking in grease and can fail prematurely. (It’s a time consuming job, but do it now and they’ll last for years) Get the copper grease out and do every steel bolt that goes into aluminium to help prevent corrosion and problems down the line. Removing the rear linkage and swinging arm to grease the bearings may seem a big job, but they are easy to do and will again prevent early failure. There is a load of things you can take off the bike to improve the aesthetics and shed quite a bit of weight, you’ll find many things in this forum. The hour meter is a good idea but not necessary, serving really depends on how you ride the bike, a bike that gets ridden hard and often will benefit from oil and filter changes monthly. At the other end of the scale, if you’re just pottering around without getting anywhere near the upper RPM’s then your oil and filter will be good for at least 3 months. The same principle applies for valve clearances. Once they have been adjusted they shouldn’t need doing again. You should never have to change a piston or rings unless you keep it for 10+yeats Do the air filter after every ride, for such a simple design they work well. Remove the flame guard it is not necessary. Remove and clean the throttle body every now and again. The mudguard bolts are made of cheese and wear easily, titanium ones are better but expensive. Taking the air box and throttle body off is much easier when all pipe work and breathers have been taken off and sorted out, all the information can be found on here. The tick over can be dialled back a little without affecting starting too much. Once you get to know the bike you’ll be amazed at the build quality and how everything fits together perfectly. Enjoy