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I'm not a road rider, I just mess around on a trials bikes so my experience is limited, but as the question was asked by the OP & I thought I'd share my experience and thoughts.. I will never notice the difference between a carb and FI in terms of performance and I would respectfully suggest nor would most other clubman rider...FI is brilliant when it works and I'm sure somewhere in that black box its been programmed to give the best performance.. It appears many manufactures are now going to FI, but I suspect that's more to meet emission regs rather solely to provide the best performance for the club rider. In my experience, when it starts to play up its a pain to diagnose the issue without a second bike to swop parts and if your unfortunate to have an issue its not going to be a cheap fix. When trying to sort mine, most of the loom was corroded, Black wire corrosion all through the earths, most of the loom was replaced. When the ecu was opened up just before launching it into the nearest bin there wasn't any visible issues with it. I agree there are a number of elements within the carb that could effect its operation, but other than a blocked jet due to stale fuel or a bit of debris they rarely go wrong, just like a the FI system in 99%of bikes, but carbs can be easily stripped and cleaned ready to go again whereas a FI system can't...The other issue we found is the idle speed on the Montesa.. its around 1800rpm, any less and the bike wont start, whereas the beta is around 900rpm and it drops lower and still pulls whereas the Montesa will stall and we found we had to use much more clutch which was also relatively switch-like compared to the beta...just my thoughts and experience...

I think that some dealers are advertising new bike as 2027, but it would be nice not to loose another make. Guy

Hi all. Im looking at selling my 2006 gas gas txt 200. Just wondering if there is much interest in the 200's and what sort of money they are worth? I know there is not many of them about and they have a niche fan base. Its in decent nick and needs nothing. Any info would be much apprieciated. Cheers

https://www.jetsrus.com/individual_parts/021-760_su.html

I saw a video on Facebook today with a 2027 Gasgas, which apparently is almost identical to '25 and '26. (Sorry, I can't find the video again to give a link.)

If by "sportsman" you mean easy route (why can't we get some standardisation of terminology? 😡), then you will have no problem at all.

AJP hub 36x SS spokes Akront light version rim NG SS lighter disc Freno pads Ergal front axle and machined gripster nut

Hi All, Just rebuilding a 250 37a and thinking of changing to electronic ignition. My question is, what is available and who's had best experience. I've used Electrex World on a B40 and a Bantam, both fine after a bit of fettling, but a disaster on a 250 Yamaha, ended up scrapping and fitting an alternative. Any advice welcome

I'm surprise that the price is so high in the UK, Here in Canada Price are as low as in the U.S., so low that the use market is way down. Guy

-4kg 🤩 Way better shock rebound lower gravity center (less weight and shorter suspensions) Better front brake : new front wheel with AJP hub, NG brake disc and Freno blue pads

Not seeing that discounting here in UK. (I might buy one if they were! ) Perhaps the dealer is clearing stock as they move franchise?

Not Torrot , Black Toro Capital an investment company owns Torrot and the 40% share of the GasGas business.

The name and number codes on electronic components often help with their identification.

4993 resistor would be 499 kiloohms I'm going to wild guess that makes a low beam happen and the rectifier would support a horn which requires DC. ... a resistor that powerful would almost kill all the voltage coming from the 6 volt system so not sure about the resistor purpose, the Bultaco schematic does show the resistor. Another diagram refers to a current stabilizer, the resistor would be to stop the bulbs from burning out and the rectifier is also needed to charge a battery if so equipped. Incandescent lights can operate on non rectified voltage.

I'd say the short spring goes inside the rubber boot between where the piston and the pusher rod which the lever acts on. Photos would help.

I can't help you with the wiring but that picture is '' the '' real reminder of my first bike yes a 116 ( 160000295 ), its the first picture of an Alpina with the small push in gas cap and the one piece tank and side cover I see in a long time. Yours seem to have the '' banana '' exhaust as mine was equiped with the small triangle too restrictive one. A real nice bike congratulation. Guy

Hi Guys Was wondering what anyone can tell me about one of these. its a TLM50 i think from Japan. And was planning to have as much fun as my 60 year old bones will let me. Any info greatly received

Hello all Hi my name is Hal and I'm 66 years old and own a Bultaco Alpina #116. I have been riding since 1971 and have owned the Alpina for 3 years. I am in the process of rewiring the headlight, taillight. The model year is 1974 and it has a Lucas hi-lo/ horn button combination switch. The headlight is also a lucas unit with red high beam indicator. I have run all new wires on the machine the resistor and diode tests good. Does anyone have a schematic for the headlight? There was also a small lucas diode bolted to the inside of the headlight bucket and that tests no good, was this diode original or did somebody add it in? Also the bike is still on points and condenser I am familiar with lucas wiring and know which wires are Hi and Low. I am trying to get it legal so I can register it, I certainly would not entertain riding at night with a 6 volt headlight. Thank you for any help or insight that you may have. Thank Hal in CT.

2x 7075 washers M10 3.5mm

Hope this helps. Also, google wiring diagrams for your bike and lots of images will show up.

Having a go at rebuilding a grimeca front brake master cylinder off a 2014 125 beta. Had all sorts of problems trying to bleed it and even bought a syringe to try and reverse bleed it. I managed to get fluid up to the end of the brake hose but not into the reservoir. I ordered a new seal kit and my thinking was just to strip it down, clean everything, and replace the seals. Two questions, the seal kit comes with an O ring which I don’t know where it goes, I know the other two seals but when I’ve stripped it I’ve not seen the O ring. The other question is in the other rebuild kit which you can get has an extra spring which again cannot find it. Mine has the longer spring but not the short one. Not sure if someone has stripped it before and left the parts out. Does anyone know anything about where the O ring and spring goes and do I need them? thanks for any help

Yes in actual trials terrain and riding at a sportsman level it will be fine, but I bet it does not make it any easier to ride and where it will fall short is on serious long steep climbs that require using max power on the larger displacement version.

While waiting for the titanium screws, new for the Climber.The original unrestored shock absorber works without leakage but is slow. Rather than restoring it, I'm going to test an assembly from a new aluminum Sachs. Shorter than 5 mm, I will raise the fork in its tees to keep the original plate. Lowering the center of gravity can be a plus and this generation of motorcycle had a good ground clearance. To see, otherwise I will make a custom-bound screed. The weight when it drops by more than 1kg. Good for the weight and the center of gravity all this!

Does the 200cc model have enough power for a 183 lbs. sportsman rider?

Hi can anyone tell me how to put electrics E.G. lights/horn/brake light on my 1976 TL 125 wiring diagram would be brill cheers Mark.