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The Mototrial X-Trial Predictions Competition will be kicking off very soon. The opening round will be in Madrid on 28 November and prediction entries will open on 7 November. All you have to do is predict the top 3 plus a wildcard. Get it right and you could be a winner. Join now and be ready to put in your entry. https://mototrial.co.uk/predictions/xtrial/
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Once you've got the bike built you'll find Gwent Classic Trials Club put on some good trials near you.
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Hi, My 2015 Gas Gas TXT 300 recently started to misbehave. It sometimes starts in reverse. Cold or hot it doesn't matter. It started gradually, first once in awhile, than more often and now half of the kicks end up in revers starting. Beside this, when under load with low rpm, right before stalling, it reverses and sends me backwards downhill. The only reason I can think of is ignition timing, therefore I went straight to the woodroff key which is in perfect condition. Next I checked all the timing components, stator, flywheel, pickup coil, ground wires and grounding points, all good. With the stator removed, I performed an engine seal test, both negative and positive pressure, again all good, cleaned the carb, changed the spark plug with a new one, opened the engine to remove carbon deposits, put everything together but to no avail, it does the same thing. Did anyone ever encountered anything similar before? Can a partially faulty CDI do this? Any ideas? Thanks.
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Loop joined the community
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AFAIK there's no news. If we hear some in the future, its probably more likely to be bad than good. As long as they keep making bikes and have spares available I dont really care if they dont run a team or develop the bike for the next 5 or so years
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Why did you move down from the stock 48?
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Im in the UK and run a 45 pilot
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Yesterday
I didn't keep check on the hours it took as it was done over a period of spare time I had, I painted the frame and tank/seat unit myself using 2 pack aerosol cans bought from my local bodyshop supplier, I used a plastic primer on the tank/seat unit the brand I used was pro xlLast week
Working on excavators and farm tractors and operating them year round I noticed they are just huge heavy duty versions of a trials bike transmission. I run shorty levers so the clutch engagement changes just with that change, clutch progression is the result of hydraulics. I think ATF is perfect for automatic transmissions, my trials bikes all have one of the most simple standard transmissions and organic friction plate clutch systems ever produced. The ISO 46 works even in sub zero it is considered all-weather. Water swells clutch plates and lowers the burn point of the oil in the clutch. Burning the oil between the friction plates is what causes the carbon glaze that builds up on a cooked wet clutch and that comes from improper combined clutch & throttle control. The ISO or SAE or AGMA measure is the viscosity measure relative to temperature, the rest of what differs is what additives are in the oil to make them suit a particular task. If you had to do a 45 gallon oil change in an excavator or farm tractor at the cost of some small package oils being sold in bike shops, you would go broke real fast.Did the ISO 46 change the clutch action? I started with the recommended oil but am now running Dexron VI. The Dexron changed the clutch action a bit and I had to adapt my clutch timing. It is difficult to tell but I think it engages later but quicker plus it removed a little drag. It must be a little thinner in the operating temperature range. A more progressive engagement would likely be better for me. I'm wondering if Dex/ Merc would be slightly thicker.@rustyrider Wow man I'm really impressed by all the work you've done. You created a one in a world kind of Montesa, I Love it. How many hours did it take ? Did you brought the parts at a painter's to give them this color ? It's awesome If I had such a beautiful bike I wouldn't bring it into the mud for sure !5 Montesa 4RT bikes over 20 years I only used ISO 46 hydraulic transmission oil in the transmission/clutch casing, never had a lick of transmission or clutch problems and the oil cost 7$ per oil change, change it frequently because there is no filtration on the transmission, the thing that destroys the oil is water from condensation or pressure washers. ... don't use pressure washers or swamp the bike and your oil will last longer 👍Thanks, already got the tools just lost the 8mm impact but got one in order.The changes was I bought a later model Montesa 309 frame, swing arm and yokes, and converted it into a twinshock instead of an air cooled mono frame, I done this by welding the rear subframe to the main frame adding strengthen gussets where needed and top rear shock mounts on the frame and swingarm, the 200 engine fits straight into the engine mounts with no modifications, I used the original wheels and front suspension, the only modification was new front wheel spacers and I fabricated a new front mudguard bracket as the 309 yokes are wider than the 200. Once the bike was in this stage I then bought a Montesa 310 front exhaust pipe and modified it to connect to the original 200 silencer, I fitted a dellorto carburettor from a Montesa 315 and fabricated a alloy air filter box and used a Montesa 315 air filter, I made a alloy chainguard and bought a Montesa 307 seat/tank unit and welded bracket to the frame to mount it, the seat I made to.As @kurtas says , a battery powered impact gun or air type if you have a large air compressor in the garage. Spend money on tools for the job or struggle , its your choice .Push the fork into the ground to compress the spring a bit and use an impact driver.smeehee joined the communityWelcome and good luck on the build from Portland, Oregon. Please post photos of your ride as it progresses.Hi my name is John. I live in merthyr tydfil South Wales. Trying to rebuild a montesa cota i used to ride. 🤘When initially changing from a 14 Beta 300 2t factory to a 16 Beta 300 4t, I struggled with full lock turns. The 4t felt a bit abrupt just when the throttle slide lifted so it tended to push the front wheel. It took a while to adapt. The 2t was fairly smooth up to mid range when it started to produce lots of power I did not need and it could get me in trouble. By comparison, the 4t felt fluffy on top. I later moved on to an 18 300 4rt. I was told the Beta 4t and a 300 4rt were very similar but it was not my experience. (also rubbish rider) The Beta had a much softer throttle response in the lower rev ranges so required less precise throttle control. This could be good or bad depending on your taste. Probably because of the softer response, it hooked up quite a bit better in low traction situations. I can't quantify but the 4rt feels bigger which could be a plus or minus based on your size. I believe it is about 7 pounds heavier. The 4rt frame feels much more rigid and transfers more shock through the handlebars. At 70, I have had surgeries on both hands plus forearm problems so am very sensitive to the shock forces. It is not the fork tuning as the Tech fork is quite plush. I ended up making rubber handlebar mounts to compensate, like CRF250. I like low idle speeds so the higher idle of the 4rt is annoying. The quietness of the Beta is nice. Initially, the 4rt felt like a real handful and it took me about 10 hours to get comfortable on it . Maintenance wise, the Beta 4t carb is much more difficult to get out compares to the Evo 2t carbs. Then, you almost have to drop the Beta engine to get to the valves. Valve adjustment access is infinitely easier on the 4rt. Oil changes are much more difficult on the 4rt. Oil filter access requires removing an engine side cover. It has separate engine and transmission oils. The recommended 4rt trans oil is $50 per liter. The 4rt rear brake is much better than the Evo rear brake.JohnAaron joined the communityThank you for your thoughts. Not sure what I will do, but will continue to ponder.
