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If we want to get all scientific there a 4 types of stainless steel and it is the chromium content that largely alters the magnetic attraction of the steel and the possibility of nickel added which has a grain that does not make a good magnet, all steel contains iron. The problem with the replacement spring in question is, they bent it in the wrong place.

All types of SS are predominantly iron. You argue it's not stainless because it's magnetic? I would expect a ss spring to be magnetic, because the very act of cold drawing and then tempering makes stainless magnetic...

Yep, I bought one of those too, it's not bent correctly, ended up sourcing a package of regular assorted coil springs from a hardware store and improvising something that works as good or better to the original.

Email Jitsie muelle ingles.pdf

The problem I've encountered is that the spring is not the same size as the original, it has longer pins and a different angle and it doesn't fit into the tensioner arm anchor. I've sent them an email with photos and they tell me they've never had that problem since it's a clone. ALSO THEY SAY IT'S STAINLESS STEEL AND IT'S NOT BECAUSE IT'S MAGNETIC AND STAINLESS STEEL IS NOT. (There are some stainless steel ones that have a slight amount of iron and are slightly magnetic but this isn't the case since iron is very attracted to iron. (I have the emails sent and their responses, as well as a video showing the spring's magnetism that I can't upload. Can you tell me how to upload videos?) Email Jitsie muelle ingles.pdf

Hi just a quick update, I peeled back a lot of the loom tape to get an idea where the various wires went. In doing so I found a few suspect terminations and 2 wires that had detached themselves (1 on the map button and 1 to the fan switch?) I also found poor connections inside the 12 pin plug to the powerbox so I replaced it with a new one (it’s a molex mx150 plug from eBay) I tested the stator, pick up and coil etc and found them to be ok. I then attempted to start the bike and after a few kicks it fired and ran for a second before dying. I kicked it a few more times and it backfired (hopefully because the air filter wasn’t fitted?) then it ran at idle for 30 seconds before cutting out. I will get a new plug and fresh fuel etc and try to restart it later this week. I will of course report back.

check your tank breather is working and the tanks not vacuuming

I'm going to agree with lemur on this. @JBROWN asked about the "POWER BOX" in a different thread. I found a Vertigo service manual on-line. It's probably similar to what you have. The mechanical descriptions are very good. The electrical descriptions are the exact opposed. The part labeled POWER BOX has a 12-wire connector. It is separate from the ECU. I'm thinking the ECU may be a fairly standard design for 4-strokes. If so, the POWER BOX may add a Capacitive Discharge Ignition and DC-DC boost converter. A CDI is de rigueur for any modern 2-stroke. Twelve wires is a lot for that type of functionality, so the POWER BOX may be doing other things as well. I suggest figuring out where the ignition coil primary wire connects. The lack of a wiring diagram is a huge impediment to understanding the system. You'd be doing the Vertigo community a great service by drawing as much of it as you can and putting it in the public domain.

No spark happens at the pickup coil, it's just a coil that briefly produces a small electric charge that in all reasonable logic goes to a little black box ignition control module just like a regular motorcycle, that in turn sends an amplified charge to the secondary coil producing the spark at the spark plug. I'll bet everything to do with the fuel injection is just like any other electric pump fuel injection system and everything to do with the modern 2-stroke motor making a spark at the spark plug is just like every other modern 2-stroke motorcycle that makes a spark at the spark plug. ... You do have 2 small black boxes, one is going to be dedicated to the Fi and one is going to be the ignition, odds are nobody short of the original manufacturer knows what is inside them which might be Hitachi or some such company.

An Ossa TR77 can't be started with the clutch pulled in as it doesn't have primary kickstarting

Maybe the cylinder studs or their aluminium nuts have stripped but that is unlikely. Maybe you have lost some of the cylinder base gasket. Maybe a leaking cylinder base gasket caused the initial runaway. Stripped head studs will not cause the barrel to move because the barrel is held in place by 4 (cylinder) studs at the bottom. I'm interested to hear what happened once you work it out.

The electrical system on an EFI bike has very little in common with even a modern carbureted bike. Even though my website is specifically about OSSAs, there is a lot you can generalize about EFI 2-strokes from it: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/electrics At the very least, it will give you an idea of the complexity involved.

Looks like the sensor/thermostatis ok , just have to wait for the temp to build up. Another question , it appears the clutch basket fingers are grooved causing the grabbing clutch , do you know if its possible to remove the basket with only the clutch cover off or do you have to remove the clutch casing as well ? From what I can ses i think you should be able to wriggle the basket out but otherwise its a longer job to take off the header and bashplate to get to all the bolts. TIA

So assuming there is a spark at the pickup would that then travel to the coil primary ?

I use an oscilloscope to test the AC outputs, nothing beats that, your pickup coil should ohm meter test easy and be adjusted (if possible) for the closest proximity to the magnets to optimize performance, pickup is simply a field coil that initiates the spark and provides timing for the fuel injection.

I have tested the stator 0.6 ohms between 1-2, 1-3 and 2-3. No continuity to ground so that should be ok.the pick up is 101 ohms.

Hi Alan I've only had the bike a few days so haven't actually done anything to it, when I collected it it kicked over fine.. IN neutral it's solid and no movement..with the clutch IN there is kickstart stroke but no engagement?

imho an upgrade would be to keep the small battery and add a capacitor and if it is only a cold start problem install a jumper port where you can easy plug in a small power supply.

The Gearbox needs to be in neutral or have the clutch lever pulled in to start the bike , have you assembled the kick start shaft/gear and the parts correctly is it inserted fully into the engine casing before replacing the clutch casing .Check your work again following the service manual. Regards Alan.

Have tried the obvious (rocking etc) but thanks Will try a tow start later and see if it re syncs with the engine running.. if not it's off with the clutch case I guess 🤦‍♂️

Hi and thanks for your reply, I didn’t upgrade to the capacitor- it was apparently a dealer/manufacturer ‘upgrade’ made worse by the fact no local dealers or Vertigo UK have a wiring diagram for a 2016/2017 bike ! I will start with the stator etc tonight. Thanks again

Not specific to ossa, but the kickstart gears can get out of alignment. Sometimes just putting it in gear and rocking it back of forward is sufficient let them mesh.

If there is no spark start by checking the stator windings and ignition pickup outputs, your spark plug does not use the capacitor to make a spark. ... interesting that one would consider a capacitor to be an upgrade to a battery 🤔 if I was building fuel injected motorcycles I would think a capacitor in place of a battery would be a cost and possibly weight saving measure, not a performance improvement. Both are power storage devices but a battery maintains an electric charge for a considerable time where a capacitor retains a charge until it is discharged and then it becomes basically flat or dead. The cap won't charge until you start cranking the kickstarter, a battery in theory would be ready to provide full power right from the first kick.

Hi again.. I've not started the bike for a couple of days and now the kickstart is not moving.. I can literally stand on it And no movement..if I pull the clutch it goes full stroke.. also if I remove the plug so no compression And put it in second I can crank the bike forward on the kickstart.. any ideas please on what is going on? Stuck or damaged gearing