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Thank you all, this advice is exactly what I was hoping for. I’ll continue to look at 250 and maybe a Beta 300. Still very much a beginner so keen to enjoy it rather than ruin it for myself or risk wasting money. thanks all!

Thank you, that’s great advice. It’s a GasGas I am looking at so might think carefully!

@Millwoodva https://youtu.be/SKPCCsKOgr4?si=MFiAoau5hUNS https://youtu.be/PuUGLuUMmOs?si=bKYHSY2iGFcl

https://youtu.be/S1LR_uMHB0M?si=sovw_drjH_rsV

Awesome 👌 Thank you!!

The Hell Team has quite a bit of information for GasGas https://www.thehellteam.com/technical-support/gas-gas-parts-and-service-manuals 1998 Parts book: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B0Mfile5AhnmcjY5NXFOaF9ZaVU?resourcekey=0-pVgEGHcAoWYLR7cvC2r7fA

Only when you get to expert will you think the 250 isnt enough for you, so unless youre going to be making expert in the next couple of years id steer you towards the 250. Although if the right 300 came along at a good price, go for it, just be prepared to spend a few 100 on bits slowing it down. I actually think a detuned 300 is nicer than the 250, more torquey low down, they are just a bit of a handful up top if you get too aggressive with the throttle

I hear you. It's very much not important, so if the risk is high, it's off my list of stuff to do. The design came from my son... he claimed to have designed it, but I'll ask. Looking at it now with a more critical eye, I see several errors and issues, so probably best to junk it and start over. Cheers... Paul

May I ask where you got that design? Was it done by an A.I. chatbot?

Sherco clutch holding tool https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7079191

Make sure your clutch lever is as far away from your fingers when you are holding the bar grip as it can be by turning the perch adjuster anti clockwise then adjust the small allen head adjuster screw that has a 10mm lock nut on the clutch lever so that there is approx 1mm of free play before it makes contact with the mastercylinder piston. this will seperate the clutch plates as much as possible when you pull the clutch lever in to give the least amount of drag at the clutch plates which will help to engage neutral. NB If when you make that adjustment your clutch lever does not touch against the bar grip then adjust the lever until it just touches the grip or when you crash the piston in the clutch master cylinder may become damaged. With this adjustment the clutch will be at its hardest pressure to pull with one finger.

Even new bikes have problems sometimes , its all good because as you work through it you learn a load of things that will help you in many future problems. Have a good evening . Best wishes Alan.

You could try removing what gas you can from the tank then elevate the rear of the bike so any remaining fuel moves away from the tap outlet. Did you try to drain fuel with the tank cap removed?

Yes, but I would advise caution. Pin 22 is driven by a component (Rohm SP8K22 dual N-channel MOSFET) known to have failed on at least 3 Explorers. This renders the ECU useless. I don't know of any trials model to which this has happened. I assume there is something about the Explorer wiring harness/easy start that's causing the failure, but I don't have one to investigate.

A lot of those Gasgas 300s have been returned because there’s too much power the rider can’t control. That’s why you’ll find them for such a great deal. Totty79 gave you some valuable advice. I have a 2023 Gasgas and had to lower the compression and put a flywheel, slow throttle and taller (11 tooth) front sprocket on it before I was comfortable on it. It’s now an clubman bike. Also, I got my 250, brand new, on sale for $4,999. If you look you’ll find a good deal too. Try Motohunt: https://motohunt.com/motorcycles-for-sale?q=Gasgas+250+txt&sort=a and search for least expensive. I just saw this on https://motohunt.com/l/7046299/2024-GASGAS-TXT-Racing-250 for $4,999. I don’t know where you are but if you’re in the states you can have it shipped for a reasonable cost. I had mine shipped from Georgia to Oregon for $300 through Uship. Good luck!

Thank you, that’s great advice. It’s a GasGas I am looking at so might think carefully!

Depends on the bike, 300 SS Beta is probably ok, 300 Gas Gas probably not unless detuned.

I have a 2016 Evo with the electronic petcock. I am getting no flow when turning the manual override lever. When I try kicking nothing dribbles out either. I need to pull the petcock to investigate. Is there another way to get the petcock open so I can drain the tank? I could try a hand pump to siphon out the gas but suspect there will still be a lot of gas flowing out when I remove the mounting bolt. Is there a cleanish way to do this? The odd thing is that the initial symptom was hard starting when cold or hot. The bike ran fine once started but I did start to get occasional odd noises in the exhaust. I adjusted the valves and cleaned the carb but when trying to start discovered this no flow issue.

Hi, so I am an absolute beginner but I don’t think it’s me, I struggle to find Neutral to the point that I sometimes use my hand I also feel like I have clutch drag and wonder if I should replace the clutch with a Mitani ? I have changed the gearbox oil with the correct Elf oil and silkoline for engine both were Dark

This should work with a high impedance input from PIN22. I'll build it in the coming days and see if it is a viable solution. Cheers... Paul

Excellent! Thank you konrad. OK, I can drive a suitable transistor with that to turn on the "spare" warning light on the OE dashboard. Am I correct to assume the 5V is relative to the ECU ground on PIN10? It seems almost as if the ECU manufacturer didn't finish the job, or tried to save a bit of cost by removing the internal MIL lamp driver. Thanks again. Cheers... Paul

From my notes... There is a symbol on the initial 2011 wiring diagram called "Testigo Averia". That translates as “Fault Witness”. I called it the CEL (Check Engine Light) in my notebook. Another name is the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp). Looks like OSSA made it part of an instrument panel in the 2014 wiring diagram. Reverse engineered it a bit. It sources 5 volts at only 5 mA, so not too useful to drive a lamp. Even an LED is pretty dim. But, you could easily read it with a voltmeter. If your bike does not start, see if ECU pin 22 is at 5 volts (with the bike powered by a battery). This would indicate the ECU thinks there is a problem, versus the bike just being recalcitrant. Wiring diagrams are here: https://www.ossa-efi.com/home/electrics/wiring-diagrams

Cheers, typical of me to buy problems! 🙄

Thanks Alan. Really appreciate it

Hi all, I’m asking for some advice please. I had a go at trials yesterday having been off bikes for nearly 20 years. I had a go on a 250 and did well on a yellow flag course. The guys said I would be good to have a go at a club trial. I enjoyed the 250 and found it very manageable. Looking for a bike now and can see a good deal on a 300. is there much difference between a 250 and 300? I worry if I buy a 250, I’ll want to upgrade to a 300 but at the same time, while I got on well, o don’t want to be cocky and buy a bike that might be too much for a beginner. any advice would be welcome. Thank you