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From a dealer? Maybe ask if he stocks a replacement fuel pump and the cost, if he says no then it should give you a hint how often they need replacing.

I am picking up a brand new, 2025 301rr next week. It will be my first. I seem to be unaware of what the specifics are related to a fuel pump issue, other than there seems to be one. Is there anything I should ask from the dealer either before I buy or when I pick up about this? What should I look for in terms of this problem and what has been the resolution?

There are lots of alternative components or circuits that can do what needs to be done to regulate the power output from your alternator such that it does not over-power your lights, all they are doing is to limit the voltage spikes produced by the alternator to around 7 volts. Robust is the function of the components ability to dissipate excess voltage in the form of heat, so whatever you use it should have a way to sink the heat.

If you are talking to me, I've been searching for a bit crisper response plus a cure to the erratic starting issues. At the moment I am running a 42 pilot, stock needle and clip position and a 122 main. And as it has always been, regardless of jetting, sometimes it fires right up, then its 6-8 kicks. Hot or cold. Actually seems to start OK more often when cold

Sorry for the late repsonse, haven't been on. When I was in the process of buying the bike, and was shopping for the best deeal, I talked with Mike, the owner of Trials Superstore. His shop is one of if not THE largest Gas Gas trials dealer in the states. He does not sell any other types of Gas Gas bikes. Anyway, in one of our talks he mentioned that the 23 - 24 model year bikes were blowing up trannys. I think he mentioned this happened more with expert/pro riders but warned me none the less. Said he had ZERO issues with the 25s. So I looked in the online parts fiches, found the parts that were different and ordered accordingly. I believe one of the shafts, main shaft I believe, plus a couple of gears. I haven't had any issues so far other the all of the metal shavings but I wanted to get the parts while still available, in case there is any issue in the near future

I have ordered some parts from Hughes Bultaco and they may have one, But I also found that a 6A10 silicone diode will also work and are robust. When I get done I hope make a colored wiring diagram that shows these items better. Thanks Hal #116 000706

Thanks for the reply. I had looked up the diode and couldn't find any. After searching for "lucas power diode 49934A" it comes back as obsolete, but did give me some modern equivalents. I had been looking up (lucase diode 49934A) putting the word (power) gave the information about modern power diodes Thanks for the feedback. I really appreciate it Thanks Hal PS. I'd still like to see a picture of the wiring in a Lucas headlight if ANYONE HAS ONE.

Use an oscilloscope to test the power being supplied to it, that will give you a hint as to the components purpose. If it is a diode that's a bonus, easy to replace on spec. That would make it a power diode as it is designed to sink heat and the main purpose would be to roughly regulate voltage output to match the lighting requirements. If a VOM test fails in both directions the component must be cooked.

Hi. So did you go for the 260 or 301?

Thanks new pegs on the way. And am now off to investigate the big bore kit thread.

Thank you all for your replies. the picture of the headlight shows the electrical item circled in red. It has lucas and #49993A and looks to be a Diode. I have checked it with a DVOM and it it doesnt read for a diode or a resistor. If anyone who has a mid 70s Bultaco with a Lucas headlight please take a picture and share it. I have the 5 speed Bultaco manual and it has 2 wiring diagrams. Which isn't really clear on the headlight wiring and I don't seem to see the lucas 499934A item in it. the lucas 49934A was bolted to the headlight shell right above the hole in the headlight for wiring pass through. Thanks Hal

https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/51772-tlm-50-big-bore-kit/ lot of info here especially at the end.

Would highly recommend you upgrade the pegs with nice wide modern pegs.

Thanks for that, am 16 stone so am considdering the mbx barrel and piston 70cc big bore kit but I think the port timing is for higher rpm. It will be a fun experiment. There may also need to be a bit of clearancing

Well I’ve bitten the bullet and bought a Montesa 4RT. I’m 62 and going to break myself ( in gently) I’m in the North Lincs area and would like to find midweek locations, so I’m not locked into weekends if possible. Looking forward to getting back into it Picture attached in its temp location till I moved my other ) road) bikes around to fit it in.

They have full sized wheels but a competition rear trials tyre is a very tight fit in the swingarm. They are quite small which can be a limitation depending on rider size. The motor is willing but can be a limitation for trials depending on rider weight. Some people enlarge the motor. Yes, made in Japan. Mid 1980s.

Adjust the valve clearance., it needs to be spot on and you just described the first symptom.

Titanium parts : triple clamps, suspension linkage and more (-270grs) Scorpa easy 1996 brand new rear disc Beautiful Régina lighter chain

There is'nt much interest in trials bikes at the present time , Superb condition like new £1,500.00 , Scruffy £800.00 or less Or ask as much as you like and then realise this is not the time to ask for stupid prices. The futures not bright , the future is orange.

Check out these prices. You can get a Racing for $4k and a GP for $5k. I’m not so sure that the prices have anything to do with the trouble Gasgas has been in though because I bought my 23 Racing for $5k in 23. I think it has more to do with dealers just getting rid of too much stock because that’s what they told me when I bought it. https://motohunt.com/motorcycles-for-sale?q=Gasgas+txt&sort=a

Due to more old man issues, I have added the electric start kit to the 300RR. With the battery, I can get the idle down to a little below 1600 before it will get hard to start. The high idle is still annoying and requires more clutch work. The 4rt is basically a sharper tool. If you like a quick sharp tool with very sharp response, it would be good for you. If you like a soft forgiving tool, the Beta 4t is a better choice. I greatly prefer the Beta but am locked in to the estart.

I've just bought a 2022 301RR. Previous owner did nothing with the bike, it's literally new. Bike starts ok cold, runs fine, idles, fan cuts in, but will not start when hot. I'm new to 4-strokes. I've filled it with fresh fuel, cleaned the air filter and replaced the spark plug, but get the same same issue. Can't find any loose plugs. Tried the ECU reset holding throttle open. Checked for throttle cable free play. Where should I start looking? Thanks

Montesa 4RT idle speed is high because fuel injection works on electricity and with no battery you can not operate the fuel pump in a discharge state.

The "cheap" bikes I can find here are 2025 with heavy discount. I can't find anything newer at all. There is no '27 models I can see at all on the websites. The manufacturer shows a '27 model but I can't find one for sale.

I recently bought a 300 Beta 4 stroke, here are my impression on 4 stroke bike. I'm in my 70's and I wanted something different from my sherco ST 250, I ride ( not competition ) with a friend that is the proud owner of a 300 repsol 2023 ( or 4 ) and he was kind enough to let me ride it for half an hour. The Honda Montesa as a realy great suspension, start easily when you know how to push not yank the crank, is realy well built and seem's to be very reliable, on the down side the 300 is very quick on the power when you crack the throttle, the response is brutal. I felt like I had to always use the clutch in tight situation, I only had a go on a 260 for about 5 minutes, but I had the same feeling on throttle opening. The Beta I got is a 300 ( I wish it was a 250 ) but after installing a slow throttle ( Amal ) and replacing the 11t front sprocket for a 10t is a little more '' gentle '', I'm quite happy with the ride, the power is predictable and no oil mixing. A 4 stroke is a very different beast, yes a bit heavier than a 2 stroke but fun to ride. I don't ( yet ) regret my purchase, I hope I won't regret it in the future. Guy