pschrauber

Well I referred to the Pirelli tires of the beginning to mid eighties which where mounted to Bultacos, SWM's, Montesas and Fantics. Which where not the same as the tires of the end eighties where Pirelli changed knobby and carcasse design as I mentioned. What differences you are not agreeing?

The old MT43 tire of the beginning to mid eighties is compared to the "new" MT43 different. Pirelli changed the design of the MT43 radically which you can see already depending the knobbies which are different now, they did too change the rubber components. The MT43 is OK for heavier bikes as its carcasses are stiffer too the rubber not as soft as the tires frim IRC, Michelin or new Dunlops. I had also a new set of MT43 mounted to front and rear to a 175cc trials bike which I bought in April 2015. The tires did the job on dry and sand ground well but on slippery ground the tires hadn't the grip I expect from a trials tire. So I switched to Michelin which worked much better depending trials riding. The tire set of the Pirelli's I finally sold to my neighbor that needed them for his TLR200 doing some trails riding in the wood with partly longer road work.

Try a NGK PB4ES instead of a 5 as lonf as you won't like to do MX with the bike for better plug color aka better spark and plug live as it still seems to be too dark in my personal view.

Look complicated with all these fasteners? If you might want to look up a mount that's less complicated (in first hand) you can look up the clamps from Gas-Gas of the 90's (around 1995). These ones are mounted very often to Betor forks of Bultacos in Spain. The fork legs have to be machined to fit the smaller diameter. The bracket for the front fender should be available from Todotrial.

The slow action throttle, the engine of my SWM is so remarkable sensitive to any throttle position and can be "adjusted" so well I can't think I could archive as good "engine behavior" or "response" with a fast throttle. You might give it a try and tell us about the difference?

A standard steel gas tank tap is easy to find for the metal tank, these where used by many manufactures especially for mopeds. The version with the gas tank breather tube on top I haven't found until today...

Sounds OK, could sound darker if you ask me but as you said the noise capturing made it sound like so. Some tickeling inside the engine but they do it sometimes more sometimes less.

I think it's just the gas I used, picture was taken when I took out the bike for the first ride after hibernation in mid February when we luckily had nice weather (not common). I still had some gasoline over from the last year and used these around two liters it up that day, before refueling with fresh fuel.

Pic's from the powder coated frame:

Habe eine both ans started with a powder coating for a motorcycle frame. The outcome was and still is great. To the preparation as already discussed the frame was completely blasted two times first with steel pellets to get of all old paint and rust then a second time with "Korund" which is the material which is used for grinding paper. The frame was two times coated first with a base coating heat resistant and tempered then with the color coat. The outcome is great but if you have to do repairs cause of scratches by assembly or in later use there is no way to get the same color or glossiness and dullness a powder coat provides. The finish of the powder coating is glossy but to a bit dull something you can't replicate with lacquers, as the color itself btw. too. So I have some issues now to repaired spots... I now switched to standard air brush coatings done by professional car body shops. Preparation is still the same with two stage blasting. Then a base coat with epoxy based paint and then a following coat with standard car paint based on two components. The fresh colored frame has then be tempered so the coating is hardened sufficiently. The finish is very nice and much more glossy. I personal now prefers air brush coatings any repairs you want to do are much easier done and I can polish up the repaired spots very well and these are not visible. Will send pics later if needed? So you see the differences.

Cool, that's how mine fumes with 1:50!

To the mixture I use between 1:66,7 - 1:71, which is around 75 - 70ml of oil to 5l of gas with no problems? (gas: 102 ethanol free pump gas or Aspen fuel, oil: half synthtetic IPONE or Plutoline trials). To the stroking you might please check: - air filter foam which might be clogged or over oiled or to dense (I personal use as little as possible, soak the filter first in oil but then squeeze immediately all out again, which leaves an oily coating and a good air flow) The airfilter should be a bit thicker than standard, (around 15mm instead of 10mm or less), good stuff: http://www.wms-online.de/product_info.php/products_id/1330/name/Luftfiltereinsatz_Malossi_-_Suzuki_Burgman_400.html ) - wrong slide?, (should be 60), - worn slide and thus needle and needle jet?, (X2 for needle and 266AV for needle jet), - wrong jets? (main 90 and pilot 60) - check fuel screw, screwing in means lean, screwing out rich, just the opposite to many SuHonYamKas ...

No Brainer ... if it's in good condition, get it! Fantic sold a lot of them at least in Europe you get spares easy. And as midlife mentioned only a Fantic 240 or the 300 would have an advantage due to their bigger engine displacements. The 200 model was even used in trials world championship before 240 model came out so it's all save riding wise in my opinion.

Tipp for starting the bike. Look up the top dead center then just a bit over and now you have enough engaging space for the momentum needed to start the engine. When done a couple of times and you get used to it works quite well (at least to me).

Last event for the German Trials Championship, held in Osnabrück (North Germany). Nice to view a longer video too with interviews with: - Franz Kadlec, - Therasa Bäumle - Ina Wilde and Gerd Bücker who is still since 1977 responsible for trials riding on the Piesberg "mountain" , so next year will be a big anniversary with stars from the 70's and 80's ... http://www.dmsb.tv/video.php?id=422

Cool, isn't it that Ugo Alberti's SWM Jumbo looks and sounds like it?

Hi Mark, great resource, thank You very much. I ordered one already! I would suggest SAE 7,5 which worked well so far for all forks and shocks to me, (weight is just 70kg!). If you weight more then probably SAE 10 would be better.

Yep it is as simple if you have a nipple that will fit, if you have a soldering iron or pot and a piece of soldering wire or a block and Las not least some flux. I personal would recommend to spread the wires at the end, to perform this I first place the nipple on the wire then place the wire in a vice so that just as much of the wire look out as the nipple is in thickness then I speed the wires to all directions even try to bend them a bit so it looks like a "bird cage". Then pull the nipple over the "nest" dunk it in flux and then heat it up solder it. Second possibility is to buy a new cable from Venhill which has the advantage that it has the right connector with an inbuilt o-ring. Here the cable with inbuilt connector, (I think it's cheaper from Venhill directly): http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-SWM-250-320-CLUTCH-CABLE-TRIALS-1978-1983-VENHILL-/350711778233?nav=SEARCH

There is an adjuster at the spindle of the inner clutchlever. With this screw you can adjust the clutch. To do so you have to unthighten the security nut for which you need the little nut wrench from Rotax. To get to the adjuster screw and secure nut you just have to unscrew the rear plastic plug of the clutch case. Don't forget to rethighten the secure nut properly after adjusting the screw. Mostly you have to hold the adjusting screw with a screwdriver whilst thighten the secure nut and all this happens inside ... wrist clock mechanics ...

Mmmh to the clutch design it's the same for the 350cc MX and GS bikes so the clutch can cope with much more power. This is the -as I think- the reason why it sticks always a bit in the beginning. The problem can be solved a bit running ATF or this Elf HTX 740 which I use. To the clutch cable, here you might get one from Venhill as they provide a cable that do seal the cable much better to the clutch casing. I think it will help a lot to tighten the casing. To the clutch engaging you might look up if there is some wear in the mechanics. The Enduro and MX models used bigger balls and a longer engaging arm this will help action wise and will lower the force you need to engage a bit. (at least at my SWM and from a fellow I know, but heard now it van too stiffen the set up?). The clutch engage assembly kit is provided from Rotax, if you have problems getting one send me an PM, there is a dealer in Italy which still sell them nut you need a trade tax number and they don't speak English. Last not least a new set of clutch plates might be a good investiture too.

Well digitizing things from old decals, photos or even do 3D renderings I do too. But I don't process items I just send the drawings. One thing I have noticed by doing my own stickers is the drawings should be made by vectors and blocks / fillings and PS as printer language has to be used. For anything that should be cutter dxf and deg are the best digital format, especially for laser cut pieces.

Why not buy a sheet of plastic board and cut it out too your needs by yourself? I did this for in many occasions bust result you will get with a bandsaw with low speed and a sawband with tight hacks or a jigsaw with a metal sawblade and low rpm. For using the jig saw I would suggest to use a high density wood board arons 4mm in thickness on which you fastn the plastic board this gives a more smooth cut. Then some grinding to smooth the edges and a polish and it will look perfect?

Well I do keep record to longer trials especially to trials hiking, which I do frequently and with long routes and limited luggage non existing gas stations in between fuel can be an issue if you have no idea about the fuel consumption. So I keep record. Just you probably don't have any needs to do so as you are in organized areas it's not everywhere so. Here one of my time/speed/distance track for one lap at a longer trials: As a round course with just 22km and a paddock in the middle no problem. But in areas where there is no gas station / restaurant / kiosk on the way, not even a street or any traffic where you do trips of length between 50 - 100km you have to know how much extra fuel you have to take with you. At least I don't want to carry too much with me as some basic tools and spares and of course some food and beverage has to be carried too. The TO haven't posted in which area he want to ride and how their are, but in own experience there the differences I mentioned are there, just because you haven't experienced by yourself doesn't mean it's not happening. To give a picture here of a trip, the different areas during the day, it where I do kind of trials hiking:

It depends very much how you ride and to which purpose. While riding in the mountains with steep slopes and long uphills the Bikes used most also wenn you have set up the carb in 1000m a ove sea level and then ride in heights of 2000m the bike will usw much more gas The average consumption for a Sherpa is around 50 - 60 km a tank (4.5 liters). Just to note I got similar consumption with a SWM 320 and even with a Beta TR 34. With the original Bing I would say more towards 50km with a Dell'Orto or OKO or Mikuni more towards 60km with one tank. When doing long trips with the bike I have a fuel friend canister with me. The canister holds 1.5 liter for a very long ride I've done with 30% mountain trails, 30% trial trails and 40% gravel and asphalt roads the bike used 7,5 liter for 100km, 1 tank and 2 fuel friend canister. On the way home when filling up the tank with the last canister I tried to ride very fuel efficient and literally with the last drop of gas I managed to get home.

116£ wow there must be something special with the cable. I paid less for one brake line with banjos and 6 cables for various SWM and Aprilia trials Bikes two month ago. I ordered for some friends of mine in Germany and myself to split the shipping costs...)