pschrauber

Looks very sanitary. I like the modified tank and side panel design. As Chris mentioned where is the airbox? have you mounted a K&N filter? I would place some kind of a shield or rear fender extension between the rear whell and the engine as the Bultaco likes to Transport a lot of ground debris there. Another thing I personal would change is the throttle at the handlebar, cabels going rectangular from the throttle can get you in weird situations as the cable likes to fasten in brushes and other jungle plants. I would Mount a throttle where the cables goes parallel with the bar. With best regards Patrik

I too believe that as long as you take commen colors or colors that are period you will not loose any money as long as the quality of the paint job and the overall design (stickers ...) will match. It would be probably difficult to sell a violet Italjet ...

I have fitted Michelin X-Lite tires with inner tubes to my SWM which still has the Acront red label rims. The combination works quite well. The tires stay good on the rims, it had sometimes occurred that a partial section of the tube went off the tire bed, (around 10 - 15 cm). But only if you have very low air pressure. I did not recognized it at once first a week later. I pumped up the rear tire until the tire sat again right on the rim. I run around 0.4 bar in the rear tire works very good. The Michelin X-Lite's are one of the easiest way to save some weight (over a kg). I will probably mount them too to my TY together with a tubeliss inner tube ..

Oh This is a mixture of an early Gas-Gas bracket mount, (the golden one), and a fender mount made out of an aluminum plate. (the plate is available in Spain too, (Todo Trial classic have them)). For installing them you need to turn down the lower stanchions too, otherwise they won't fit. The front fender itself might be a shaved standard one or maybe one from a newer model. As there is no return for this modification you might too look out for a second fork. The modification will save some gramm but that's it, the fork seals are a good mod. as they will reduce stiction a loot, the rest is "just" nice looking. As the eyes rides with the bike too worth when You are interested in design too, if not there are probably other modifications that are too to consider.

I personal would leave the plug in the center and use the other hole which is a little bit off center for the decompressor. If you ask me why there is no real reason beside it's common to do so.

Yep, best way to do if the bike is fairly OK, while you keep it running you can easier detect issues and get spares in time before waiting a long with all parts spread in the garage because you have to search up something wicked. My Bultaco was stored untouched for over a decade in a garage when I found the bike, so there where issues with corrosion and to glue transformed gas ... I had no chance to get it running without stripping the bike completely. This picture I made when I got the engine sorted just to please me while fixing other parts of the suspension. Good luck for the assembling.

There is an oil seal it's behind the washer on your photo, (green plastic). For sealing the clutch push rod you need the felt seal, can be made by your self (that's how I do it) or bought by Inmotion for example. Here the oil seal: PS.: I believe you need a new front sprocket.

That's wear to the push rod done by the ball end due to too little slack of the clutch cable, or very much slipping the clutch while riding.

Mmmh looking at the piston the engine does run a little bit on the rich side. The dark brown spots a right but there are some black areas with carbon build up. Otherwise very sanitary, my compassion to the gear shaft ...

Very confusing that there were so "many" different sizes? But they (SWM) did change the swing arm and the rear shock in the development of the bike several time maybe therefore are so many different length in use.

Mmmh the standard Girlings which are mounted on my TL.NW Guanaco 320, (still working very well), are 360mm in length. I mounted Falcons now which are 372mm so even slightly longer. And I' am very pleased with the outcome. Mine is a 1980 yellow Italian model.

I' am not sure, but I think not the stop while still balancing on the foot pegs is the problem. It's in my opinion the hop around changing direction which is/was often the opposite of elegant. And of course the dab while the bike stand still which was counted with 1 point. The dab while standing is cured, which is an improvement. Still there is some "hop around" instead of forward there is the borderline in my 0,02 € opinion. They should allow the stop while standing on the pegs but not relocating while trying to get forward this is extremely difficult to observe and determine if someone is still in the move forward or only changing direction (turning) or rolling backward. I personal like really ridden sections instead of sack bouncing rides, a stop (a real stop!) in between is OK, but here I' am probably very lonely in my personal view.

There are indeed some very nice black Sherpas like this one which is stationed in the Netherlands around, but the colour arrangement has to fit to look nice, like here: But much effort and I would think very expensive too. The original red silver scheme with aluminium fenders, - posted already-, looks as good in my personal view, expecially when there is some patina shown. Like here, (the handle bar is nuts): http://classic-motorbikes.net/images/gallery/1975_bultaco_t350_159.jpg or here much better: http://bultacotrialclassic.superforum.fr/t148-elle-est-vendue-bultaco-159 * * French Bultaco Forum very nice topic's there ...

The rebuild looks very sanitary so far, as I could see you have done some welding to the foot rest area, so you changed the position ...? After welding the frame you will paint the frame, partial or complete and then in silver again which I personal like much more then the gray color that seems to be applied now. Looking forward to any progress in this rebuild.

Yep very true I mix it up very often as the Bosch and Beru plugs count up for hot and NGK down:

Looks like the either the mixture is still too fat or the plug could be a little bit colder. I had a similar look of the plug with a in my personal view very good adjustment of the carb, so I recently replaced my standard plug which is a NGK BP5ES to BP4ES and the plug looks much better now, hazel brown in the middle (electrode) and very dark brown on the outer ring. If you feel comfortable with the carb adjustment and you still have a too wet looking plug a switch to a colder plug might help.

If you have to spilt the motorcases, I would in your situation replace everything that is weard out, beside this every oil seal, as they get stiffed as older they are. Then I would take a look at the bearings if they still roll smooth, especially main bearings and lower con rod bearing, piston, cylinder and piston rings should be looked at. Often the mushroom like bearing for the clutch rod is behind wear, clutch plates?. I would also replace primary chain and chain tensioner. Some shims between the gears of the gearbox of my 199b where weard down too so I had to replace them too, (custom made). Points and capacitator come in my mind too. I don't know where you live so I can't give you a good hint for parts beside Bultaco UK.

Ok I would ask a specialist in suspension tuning, tell him my needs and the specs of my bike and the specs of the springs I have mounted and then they produce a springs to my needs. The price is around 100 Euro a pair. www.fahrwerkstechnik.org

In my personal opinion a protection is useful if the frame coating is still new, when ridden some hours there will occur scratches and rubbing marks If the frame surface is still intact you can use protection foil that you get from VW for Passat or Golf station wagon's. The foil is very thick but so transparent you can't see it. To apply the foil some preparation has to be made. The foil sticks extremely well and as far as the edges are hoded or doesn't get in contact with the boots it will last for year. The protection foil set from VW comes with a good manual, the only things you need are: - water, - soap, - polish for paint, - a cutter scissors, - a rakel with soft tip, - hair dryer or likewise. The look with patina is not so bad, it's just the little extra work of clean and oil blank surfaces regulary when needed. Some patina suits an old bike very well.

In short: The old springs will loose tension with the time, then they will too "shrink" in lenght. There is already a nig difference between pretty well used springs and NOS. Then clean up the inerta of the fork, there is a lot of debris inside, does effect damping. Then new slide seals to the inner piston works wonder too. O hope the stanchions are straight by all means, will otherwise worsen action quite abit. At last are the lower stanchions still circular or already oval inside, the bore wears sadly too, (where most of the debris in the oil comes from. To the springs itself I have one fork rrbuilded fixing all things named and mounted NOS springs and this unit works very well, better then first expected. (so a real "overhaul" is in my opinion at least 80% of the work. An improvement are the Magicals together with adjustable fork nuts, more progressive which is nice to have. Also the ability to adjust the fork is very nice. Non plus ultra for Betor are air cartridge systems fittet to the fork, (there are two version available). Here you have the complete control about the performance to the fork. The cartridges are made to your requirements and you have still three different springs and of course the air pressure. I had recently rebuilded a Betor fork with this system, (two cartridge in each leg, (more weight but in case of trouble ... you have a back up). The performance is really good, but its only worth the effort if all other things to the fork a very well sorted.

Outside of Britain she was named "The iron Lady" and you can be sure that even today her name and here politics are still often quoted, she is still one of the greatest British prime minister in times so far. So she has achieved her place in history already decades ago - but in the hearts of many people she has not found a place.

Autsch ..... As long as all works I would leave it as it is until you will recognise malfunction or heavy incontinence. In the meantime I would search for a replacement. I've done likewise the gear/kickstarter mechanism to my SWM, here the hole shaft of the kickstarter was somehow oval and lead to a not very proper working return mechanism of the kickstarter and heavy incontinence, the last weeks I lost around 20ml gear oil per week. I have now fixed the problem recently in wintertime.

If the motor is set like he is just not reaching the idle speed it's easier ride very tight curves without using the clutch. If the engine still can ignite or "increases" speed while you try to take the turn whilst being at the steering stop this can bring you out of the eem of the balance, provided you drive the old style without the hand on the clutch. Today we are wise just one hand on the clutch and little slip and it works also with an idling engine. Times have changed ...

Thank's for the replies! And the airboxes from post #5 and #17 look very professional. @zuma: Have you done a model first? (out of styrofoam f. e.?) @jc2: It was only a calculation for illustrating what is going one inside the intake, (idid mention this in my post). This is and was far away from any calculation of the airbox size, the airbox size as rule of a thump should be around 6 - 8 times of the capacity of the motor, More sience in english here: http://www.ten-tenths.com/forum/showthread.php?t=76195 if someone is interested. Anyway: I will as an first step clear out the standard airbox from the inside, then cladd the inside with deadening foam (5mm) to reduce roaring sound and the airfilterfoam will be imposed over the top, well we will see how good this work ... If not as good as I aspect ... a custom made airfilter will be taken in consideration. the fiberglass variant is very nice and light ...

Forgot to mention: The threads should be situated in the rear as seen here, when you unscrew the nut you will see them. You need a long extractor for this magneto. You find them f. e. here, or maybe from Bultaco UK: http://www.moninomartinez.es/cast/01extractores.htm I would measure the diameter and the threads of the magneto and of course the shaft lenghts sticking out bevor in forehand and give the spec's with the order just to make clear the Extractor will fit.