The only thing that will cause or allow running backwards is points setting/timing setting - you need to check it again, carefully.....
but did you start and run the engine half a dozen times between checking ?
Hi, Terry -
Probably 1972-73, depending on what you mean by "year" - of manufacture, import, registration , etc.
Is it road registered ?
As has been mentioned many times, when it comes to categorising Bultacos, far more important than "year" is MODEL No. which in this case is mod. 92, 1st. series. (Sherpa 325 "Slimline")
Any reason it could not be 198 ?
What you are describing is an earlier Mk. I Concentric, or Monobloc type instrument.
This is a Mk.II, which has a " bypass" cold start control - a carb. within a carb., if you will. This also does away with the need for a tickler.
Amal Concentric Mk. II 27mm.
Slide #3 cutaway Main jet 150 Needle jet .106 Pilot jet 20 Cold start jet 40
I suspect your problem lies in the idle circuit (smallest orifices block the easiest) and if it's been lying about unused for a long time I doubt that soaking in paraffin would do any good as far as cleaning it is concerned. You need CARB cleaner ! in aerosol form, preferably.
A combination of this, and compressed air if available would be much more effective.
Failing this, you may have to resort to using an ultrasound cleaner. But don't ditch the Amal just yet.....
More info. needed :-
Which coil have you replaced ? H.T. or L.T. ?
Where and how are you measuring 3V ?
What setting do you have at c/b. points, ?
"Newly purchased mod 199" - did it have a spark when you bought it ?
Why have you replaced ignition parts ?
A slight amendment to the info. I posted earlier :-
"R" prefix actually denotes 238cc. capacity of model 198, a late version still identified as Sherpa "T250"
(Earlier 250's that were actually 247cc had a "P" prefix). Hope this doesn't confuse the issue too much......
Frame # will be RB R = 250 B = "Bastidor" (frame)
Engine # will be RM M = "Motor"
Check frame again. HTH
+ 1 on that.
These were my thoughts too - but expressed so much more eloquently than I could manage........
The left side spacer you need is this one (part # 67.04 - 009).
As Woody says, this is used in conjunction with a split spacer in the spindle clamp at the bottom of the fork slider.
The right side "top hat" spacer behind the brake plate (part # 20.04 - 009) is this one :-
As an aside, is that a crack in the spoke flange in the picture ?
Yes, late model Sherpa. You may find a date on the underside, at the rear.
Here's a NOS one in my collection :
Engine : model 68 Pursang 250 Mk. 4
Frame : model 90 Astro 250
These bearings are so specialised (replacing ball thrust bearings, equally specialised) that even with a number, if indeed you could ever find one, there is no chance that you will find them at your local bearing shop.
(This is of course a chance for someone to reveal which local bearing shop has them in stock - and prove me wrong ...........!!)
Good luck with your quest, anyway.
There are two of these bushes in the sleeve gear - your pic. shows just the outer one. As woody says, you have to dismantle the engine to replace.
You may well find corresponding wear on the gearbox mainshaft.............
When you re-assemble fit a felt seal (part #414-052) as mentioned by on it.
Good luck with the repair.
You can junk the cast bracket and replace with a fabricated steel one, as Bultaco themselves did on later bikes. Bracket should be obtainable new from Inmotion, or possibly secondhand on fleabay, etc. Also check carefully the (cyl.)head steady and fixings.
More information needed, methinks......
Is this a bike you have owned for some while (and had running), or a disparate collection of parts you are trying to assemble ?
When did the problem first arise ?
What parts have you replaced ?
Don't want to be too hard on you.........I'm sure we all made stupid mistakes as raw novices - I know I did......
However, "culprit of the nasty noise in the engine" is unlikely to be just a nut that's come undone - that's more likely to be merely a symptom of other damage. As vintagenut has suggested, the woodruff key is probably also sheared, with attendant damage to the tapers of flywheel and shaft. Also, depending on the revs. reached (and for how long) when the bike started w.f.o. you may have damaged the conrod bearings. As misscrabstick and pschrauber have said, engine now needs a total strip and rebuild.
Best thing you can do is follow your own admission, and entrust the work to someone who actually knows what he's doing. Be prepared for a sizeable bill...sorry !
Probably nothing more than "barrel" distortion (camera lens).
Did notice that the conrod. looks to have been replaced already.........and why two cyl. base gaskets, I wonder ?
Whatever you decide with your engine, I urge you not to make any non-reversible changes - reducing the interference fit of main bearings "to make assembly" easier would be one such change............you could regret this when your main bearing inner races start to spin on the crankshaft........
Never assume that Bultaco didn't know what they were doing .....
Your con rod assembly looks like :-
As far as I can tell replacements ARE available - this is one bought in January and now fitted to one of my cranks:_
(I was quite surprised to find this crank in a mod. 124 engine, which I believe would have had an 18mm. crankpin originally..! )
Also have o/size Mahle 71mm. pistons, although many have said these are "unobtainium".
"Seek and ye shall find" ?
The availability (or otherwise) of parts is influenced by how soon they are needed, and the depth of your pockets. I have several engines undergoing "the treatment " at the moment and I've not found one that's worked out cheaply so far........
The small hole pictured is the gearbox breather, the only breather in standard form. It needs to be kept clear - if it becomes blocked it can lead to oil leaks and/or g/box sprocket seal failure. Attempts to provide alternative breathing through the filler plug have had mixed results, according to previous posts on the subject.
Over the years Bultaco appear to have experimented with either two or three main bearings / crankpin (and crankwhee)l diameters / conrod location by big-end washers and small-end spacers / location by small-end spacers only. Your conrod/big end bearing with narrow thrust washers is the original type of set up for your engine.
But wasn't that was the very reason the circlip was introduced on later engines..?
Well............ there you have it......
What are you hoping to achieve by "centre-ing" ?
Crankcase gasket must stand proud of cylinder base joint face at assembly, to be trimmed after cases are together and all fixings tightened. This should ensure that there are no leaks at cylinder base.
You seem to have taken considerable care to centralise crank within cases ; what happens when driveside nut (for oil seal sleeve and sprocket/weight) is fully tightened ?
Crankshaft needs positive location relative to drive side crankcase half to retain primary chain alignment. Using roller bearing on mag. side of crank also makes crank width and axial location of main bearing less critical.
As the inner and outer races of the roller bearing are separate parts, once fitted to crankshaft and crankcase respectively it's then possible to assemble/disassemble the engine without heat.. See above from the o.p.