Do you really believe if the factory made a prototype they would make it heavier than standard ?
No way - much more likely the extra lugs were added by a previous owner for sidecar use. The early frames are very heavy anyway owing to the quality of tubing used. I've heard this referred to as "gas pipe" and the like by knockers, but it was all that was available to the factory at the time.
As others have already pointed out, it's a bitsa.
I can see parts from several different models there.........don't let that put you off, as it doesn't make it any less rideable or enjoyable.
However, if the serial no. stamped on the frame headstock is the same as the engine it's a re-stamp.......
Without a picture, a crystal ball would probably be more use than keen eyes !
Post the engine and frame nos. and I'm quite sure someone on here will be able to help.
What distinguishes this early crank from later ones ?
Would it be possible to use a later crank ?
Is your engine no. 21M.....followed by earlier/later than serial no. 1079 ? (I have an engine broken with that serial no. - this one had snapped its crankpin.......)
As your bike appears to be largely original spec. (surprisingly so, in fact) you may find this of interest :
Hope this helps.
May I suggest you don't try to start it without the mag. cover in place.........repeated kicking will probably bend the unsupported shaft.
borderbul - Glad to read that you did the sensible thing and contacted DVLA - please keep us posted with how you get on !
gasserguy - The reason for my post and the "complex advice" is that I've fallen foul of DVLA rules in the past.
Example :- I had no V5 doc. for a bike which I had owned and been the "registered keeper" of for 10+ years and for which I had both old tax discs and an old style logbook IN MY NAME. I was informed by DVLA that the reg. mark was no longer valid as it had not been transferrred to the computerised register, and that the bike would have to be allocated a new age-related number. Some time later, and after selling the bike, I learned that a subsequent owner found himself in the same boat, and the bike ended up being allocated a THIRD registration mark ....!
Furthermore, I've read that DVLA has progressively tightened up its procedures regarding old vehicles and retention of reg. marks and in view of this, I've since made quite sure that any (registered) bike I own has a V5 or V5C in my name !!
twinnshock - Thanks for pointing out the importer position "pre-Comerford's" - I'd forgotten about that. As a VMCC member, I am also aware that the club has had a vacancy for a Bultaco marque expert for quite some time.
The registration no. is W?? 991F ? Have you done a DVLA vehicle enquiry to check if this number is on their computer system ?
If it is, you need simply to apply for a reg. document (V5C), stating that one was not handed to you at the time of purchase.
If it isn't on the system you will need a certificate verifying date of manufacture/make/model/capacity etc. I believe Inmotion/Bultaco UK are a DVLA-approved authority for this. The machine will then probably be given an age-related (non-transferable) reg. mark. (The fact that it has (or had) a reg. mark originally is no guarantee that you will be able to retain it, unless you can prove that the machine is of significant historical interest - I don't think that applies in this case) .....All as I understand it, but you could try ringing the DVLA, of course.
Overall, should be quite straight forward.
Standard slide is #3 cutaway.
Of course, any carb. tuning (on this or any other bike) should be the last step in an overall tune-up - you must first ensure that everything else is OK..........
Mmmm.... that's interesting, and a timely subject for me, as I am currently trying to sort a piston/barrel for my mod. 85 Alpina.
The liner of the original cylinder has effectively been ruined by some PO idiot with a grinder. The best cylinder I have (from a mod. 124) is on STD. bore and Mahle piston, but this has the shortest rear skirt of any 250 piston that I have ....
(I have a few new Sherpa pistons on the shelf (Mahle and Dinamin) and I've also kept some of the old pistons I've replaced in the past, for the purposes of reference and comparison etc. in the future.)
All the 350 (83.2mm. & oversizes) pistons have front and rear skirts of equal length.
All the 250 (72.0mm. & oversizes) pistons have a rear skirt shorter than the front ; this also applies to the later 240 (71.0mm. & oversizes) pistons.
I think this explains the reason for Saddleback's question raised in his o.p.
I know that mod. 212 is a 250, but unfortunately I do not know what piston would have been fitted originally, although it seems likely it would have had a shortened rear skirt.
I think Sherpa325 meant to say RIGHT side case.........
Just one word - BRILLIANT !!
Let us know how it works.
(You've got me wondering about the switch for my mod. 85 Alpina now.............)
You meet the nicest people on TC.........
Dinamin became GPM, and both are now no longer available, as far as I know.
I have no personal experience of Wiseco , but read lots of bad reports from users Stateside.
The original Mahle pistons always were and probably still are, the ones to go for, but are now almost totally unobtainium.
Most, if not all currently available new pistons are Italkit , I believe (but I also have no personal,etc.....)
yamanx - the first question any supplier will want answered is "what size ?" ( "Bultaco Sherpa 250T" could be 71mm. - 73.5mm. depending on year and
Other opinions are available........
But that's almost unimaginable luxury...............
Feeling bored when we had a few days of snow recently, I thought some time in the shed was in order.....until I actually tried it !
Highest temp. in my shed on 4 consecutive days was -2deg. C. (I don't have heating for fear of the fire risk)
Hoovering, etc. looked positively inviting !!
As I understand it, if your hub is 2-piece with a removable spoke flange, as in the pics. from feetupfun , then it's the old style "heavyweight" item. This would have an iron brake drum which was actually cast-in as an integral part of the hub, and brake shoe linings 40mm. wide..
Hardchrome lining is a feature of the later one-piece "lightweight" hubs with brake linings 25mm. in width.
Remember, blueflag - a picture speaks a thousand words.........?
Hi, Groover, and welcome.
A couple of nice looking machines you have there......the one out back is a model 80 ?
Don't think I've seen a Homelite tank painted in those colours before...
This type of alloy mounting was not one of Bultaco's more successful designs........
Makes good sense to replace it with a steel fabricated item, as fitted to the later bikes. (like the white one in this pic.)
Also, when you refit the engine to the frame, pay particular attention to the condition and fit of the head steady .
Welcome to TC.
Bully looks nicer than any of mine were when purchased.
Good luck with the rebuild - lots of help available from knowledgeable folks on here, should you need it.
OK, but that's YOUR electronic ignition, fitted to YOUR bike - not netley's..........
Personally, I'd want to check out the timing, as suggested by oldjohn.
(and check dynamically, if electronic advance is involved)
Agree wholewheartedly with your comments.......and I think I recognise the reference to a very famous Sherpa rider and his recommendation
of a more advanced ign. timing - I did wonder about the need (or indeed the wisdom) of this at the time. But hey, what do I know ?
I urge you to inspect the bore and piston, before you do any further possible damage.
Tried to PM you, but am told you cannot accept messages ?
As I understand it, Sherpa 5-spd.internal ratios were changed to provide a wider spread of ratios, by lowering the intermediate ratios.
(Compared to the previous set-up)
As top gear remained unchanged and is direct (1:1), higher top speed in 5th. would result only from changing the secondary ratio.
Glad you've got the rear wheel sorted.
Re the front wheel : do stay with the X-3 spoking pattern - both sides.
The nearest thing I have to an original, unmolested front wheel is this one :
It's not a wheel that I've rebuilt, and as near as I can tell has not been rebuilt by a p.o. (So "original" that I had
to replace the tyre a couple of weeks ago, as the old one had completely rotted away !)
OK, it's a Pursang - flanged rim, etc. but it uses the same spokes as a Sherpa, and consequently the same
spoking pattern. (It's also the same pattern as used in the three mod. 199 wheels I referred to in my last
Hopes this helps.
I've been waiting for someone/anyone to chime in with all the answers, but it hasn't happened, so here goes.........
In response to your original query, it appears from the pics. that these are the correct standard Sherpa hubs and original Akront alloy rims.
My 199 parts book lists :-
Fr. wheel spokes 18x left hand side 241mm. long
9x right hand side 225mm. long (inners)
9x 227mm. long (outers)
36x nipples (alum. alloy, barrel 6.8mm. dia.)
R. wheel spokes 18x right hand side 196mm. long
18x left hand side 176mm. long
I've checked some of the genuine Bultaco spokes I have for mod. 159 and mod. 199 wheels and they all conform to these measurements.
From the pics. it looks also that the nipples used on your wheels may be undersize - maybe you can confirm the barrel dia. of these ?
If you are having a problem with (apparently) short spokes, have you considered that the spokes may be correct, but laced to an incorrect
pattern ? How are you measuring your spokes ?
Using the above lengths of spokes I don't recall having the problem that you are experiencing but (from memory) none of my wheels are laced like yours; I'm unable to get to any of them at the moment to verify.
"Right" and "left" hand above refer to sides of the machine as seen from the rider's view, by the way.
Rear rim offset : I've always measured this from the spocket flange on the hub to the outermost edge of the (standard Akront) wheel rim and notes I made for the last three mod. 199 rear wheels I stripped indicate 1 9/16", 1 17/32", and 1 5/8" - take your pick!
Front rim offset I can't find at the moment, but would probably be academic, anyway. I usually just centre the rim to the steering axis, as close as poss.
Caveat : I'm NOT a wheelbuilder or any sort of expert - someone who is may care to rubbish any or all of the above.