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Everything posted by lorenzo
  1. Further supported by the use of top yoke with taper-top stanchions - (on a 198 the top yoke would have 4-bolt split clamp with parallel-top stanchions.) If the frame is stamped RM198, it probably was - that's an engine number............. Tank/seat unit is standard Bultaco Slimline/Kit Campeon, which also matches model 91/92 from 1973. Whatever, frame is an obvious re-stamp.
  2. In terms of function on the machine, little or nothing............ However, you may have forgotten saying in you earlier post :- suggesting that no one would be prepared to pay such a price (for a brand new, super duper kickstart lever, even). The "used prop stand" reference possibly proves otherwise, I felt..............
  3. Model 80 - £160 + p&p is exactly the price that someone paid earlier this week to win an eBay UK auction for a used prop. stand for a Model 199.......... After seeing that, I'd say anything's possible !
  4. Hi - You have my sympathy - I know from my own experience how difficult it can be to obtain this sort of information, and I'm surprised that you've had no response so far. Not at all sure if I can help , but here goes :- Standard M91 Sherpa rear wheel is the same wheel as M92 and also (late) M85, and features 17mm. dia. spindle, WM2 (1.85 X 18") Yellow label Akront flanged alloy rim, and butted stainless steel spokes with alloy nipples. The outer spokes on the brake drum/sprocket side have an extra bend in the butted portion at the outer edge of the spoke flange - without this bend I imagine it would make achieving the required offset quite difficult. lf the chain comes off the rear wheel sprocket these 9 spokes are frequently those that get damaged. Does your wheel have standard spokes and rim ? Is the rim itself badly buckled, and if it is, what will you use to replace it ? Is the rim correctly laced to the hub (X2's pattern) ? Here is a sketch I made of a M92 rear wheel, mebbe 40 or more years ago - ..........I can't of course claim that these are the standard offset figures (or that I was able to measure them with any accuracy, come to that..). However, as the bike and its wheel had only about 2 years use at the time - there's hope ! Let me know if this is of any help at all, or if you need any more info. A check on the M85 wheel gave a figure of 1.5" for the sprocket mount surface to rim outer edge, rather than the 1.21/32", but I rather fancy this is not right - I have a suspicion it's been laced incorrectly.
  5. lorenzo

    199A parts

    Bill - (I am assuming that this tank is fi-glass) By my (somewhat shaky) memory, I think the Miller tanks used a "Ceandess" bayonet fit cap, of this type :- www.feked.com/2-vented-petrol-or-oil-tank-filler-cap-chrome-plated.html Not sure of the size, you must measure. Feked.com took over the Sammy Miller Products brand a while ago. Hope this helps - good luck with the rebuild .....
  6. Johnsy - I was about to ask why you think synthetic oils are unsuitable for 50 year old engines, but b40rt beat me to it ! In the past, my own experience with 2-stroke engines that have been stored in average conditions and unused for a long time is that without exception, after being put back into use they consume their main bearings (and/or con. rod bearings) shortly after, even though those engines may have sounded surprisingly quiet and OK initially. This seemed to happen irrespective of the make of bike or brand of (mineral) oil used. My last 2-stroke bike acquisition in May 2016 was a 1996 moped that had stood in a garage unused since 1999. With 17.5K miles on the clock, a 20 year old bike that had its first MOT when I put it back on the road !!.......This little bike that I still own and use for the occasional local errand is up to now the ONLY one I've owned that has broken the bearing failure pattern - and I'm quite convinced that the reason for this is that it has been lubed with Fully Synthetic oil from new. Malcolm - I will tell you that Castrol R is definitely unsuitable, even if you find the smell irresistible - don't let the stuff anywhere near your rebuilt engine PLEASE..........
  7. Larry - I feel fairly sure that the original twistgrip would have been Spanish Amal - not # 364 (a roadbike type) , nor type 16 - at least , not the type 16 listed by Burlen.............. (quote) "which has a high quality polished aluminium finish rather than the original chromed Mazak" also hints at the latter material being the earlier. Polished alumimium ? And with a price tag of £71.82 ? Whaa ?? Sounds much more like a fancy road bike repop than a trials bike offering to me. Anyway, while going through the shed in the summer (seems a lifetime ago now), looking for a Doherty twistgrip which I didn't find, I managed to turn up something like ten others of various makes and types, including :- Two Spanish Amal (Mazak) t/grips, a plastic one (like yours ?) all removed from Bultacos , and a Doherty with stripped threads -the one that I was hoping to replace. A feature of Spanish Amal twistgrips is that the cable entry to the drum is slotted and direct (definitely NO loose ferrule to drop out and lose. My Sherpa 4-speed parts list (a Sammy Miller copy) lists handlebars (part #10.01-019) but no twistgrip, unfortunately.
  8. If the brake drum is 125mm. diameter, it's a Pursang wheel. (Pursang pre-mk. 9 - this used 140mm. hub/brake). Further identification points are the extra flange on the l/h. side of the hub, and yellow Akront label. This is supposedly a stronger wheel overall than a Sherpa item. First Sherpas with conical hub were machined and polished. Later Sherpas were less "finished", retaining the extra flange and were fully painted. Spokes also changed from stainless butted with alloy nipples to steel during various iterations. As stated by woody, flanged type rim was used to 1972, flangeless thereafter. Mod. 80 Sherpa and Mod. 85 Alpina both had full-width type hub of 125mm. and flanged rim. It'll certainly need brake shoes.......what state is the brake drum in ? .
  9. Looks like Bultaco, but model ?, can't be sure.... Need to see other side of hub.
  10. In a d.c. (battery and coil) ignition system indeed it would......... Unfortunately, a flywheel mag. ignition doesn't work like that - for the reasons already stated. The buzz box is NOT just the same as using a multimeter, as the bleep or buzz will continue to sound, but change note - the whole reason for using it is that when the contacts start to open there is still a complete circuit. - look at the circuit schematic again, in particular the ignition coil. You will see that there are two coils (l.t. and h.t.) either side of the core. That's quite correct..............But that's not what a buzzbox does. We are not testing resistance or points condition, but indicating a change in resistance in the circuit when the points open. That's your reasoning, but once again you are describing the operation of a d.c. (battery and coil) ignition. I'd love to be clever enough to claim it as my reasoning - I'm not.........and it isn't. If you don't believe an a.c.mag. flywheel ignition system could possibly work you have failed to grasp the basic principles. I admit I struggled with it myself before getting my own buzz box I'm rapidly running out of ideas to convince you........
  11. Mike - Any progress ? Did you visit the "buzzbox" site ? I just turned up this:- , which may well explain better what I was trying to convey in my last post. You are of course free to ignore any of the above and/or form your own opinion and act accordingly - it's your bike,etc........
  12. Mike - The reason you are having to remove the c/b. points wires to show when the points open is because you are using a continuity meter/ohm meter. In a flywheel magneto such as you have the condenser and h.t. coil are connected in parallel to the l.t. coil windings, which means that regardless of whether the contacts are open or closed, you will still have continuity. (Effectively, the contacts are always grounded........) This advice would apply to coil and battery (D.C.) ignition NOT flywheel magneto (A.C.) ignition in discussion here. Clearly, no it doesn't...... To time your magneto the accepted method is to use a timing "Buzz Box" which will indicate when the points open using a change in resistance, rather than an actual break in continuity. Additionally, if you are using a d.t.i. or timing stick/plunger in the spark plug hole, it's an awful lot easier to hear the opening point than trying to watch the flywheel/contact points/piston position indication, etc. all at the same time ! Here's a link that you may find helpful : http://www.dansmc.com/buzzbox.htm HTH - let us know how you get on.
  13. For the unconvinced :- There you go............. Picture page 40 of Don Morley's "Spanish Trials Bikes" ISBN 0-85045-663-0 (pub. Osprey Publishing Ltd. 1988)
  14. Miller frame above was the most recent pic. I could find (1978) in any of his catalogue material in my possession. Just looked at my copy of "Spanish Trials Bikes" for the first time in years and yes, I agree with your opinion entirely. Mystery solved, and well done Stuart, I'd say.
  15. Aren't you comparing apples with oranges ? Looks very much like one to me.....albeit modified around the rear loop. November 1978 price :- £120.00 + VAT (at 8% !!) p.&p. £2.00 - Makes you think, doesn't it ? Hope this helps.
  16. Ciaran - The info. you want (I think) was covered in an earlier topic listing. "199a running refurb. - new member cosmo" on Aug. 8th. last. Sorry, tried to create link but lack i.t. skills........ HTH
  17. Hi - I have a 1960 (road) Bullet - a long-term project for which I have struggled to find correct front fork parts......I am reliably informed theyv'e all been snapped up by the pre-65 Trialers ! Your chances of finding a complete and correct, ready-to-use gearbox assy. (or one in any sort of condition, come to that), I would estimate at zero or less - but what do I know..? First port-of-call for anything Royal Enfield has to be Hitchcock's Motorcycles Ltd., although I suspect you already know this. A picture speaks a 1000 words, it's said - any chance of seeing your bike and/or the present gearbox ?
  18. Gentlemen - if we can get back to the original post, please..........! The point I attempted to make in my response is that any alloy rim will corrode if neglected. However, I think in the case of DC's bike I would be very disappointed to find that level of corrosion in just 5 years, particularly to a tubeless rim. (My understanding of these is that they should be particularly well-sealed against such deterioration, with the inflation valve the only weakness - or maybe I have that wrong.) I should point out that the Bulto/Akront tubed rim in my pic. had worn its tyre undisturbed since 30 years ago, (when I bought the bike as a non-runner) and possibly up to 34 years (when the tyre was new) - and of course has many more holes to allow the ingress of moisture than a tubeless ........
  19. Soap is by its very nature CAUSTIC. Oxford dictionary defines soap as "a cleaning agent that is a compound of fatty acid", etc. Proper tyre soap is NOT soap - more accurately tyre LUBE. I am quite familiar with corrosion to rims - here's what I found on removing the rear tyre from my Bultaco Alpina long-term project :-
  20. Ooh, sorry to hear that, Old man - now I feel your pain.......
  21. Tsk, tsk, Old man - far too touchy. You came here seeking advice - which was freely given. Everyone in this free world is entitled to his own opinion. No need to go off the deep end........ (This is from another old man with lots of Bultacos)
  22. Removing the cylinder base sleeve nuts can often prove a task in itself if a p.o. has used an ill-fitting key and rounded-off the internal hexagons - you have removed all the nuts, haven't you ? (Maybe, not obvious to someone unfamiliar with working on these engines......) Jarring the barrel with a hammer and piece of wood to the exhaust port, or similar usually then does the trick. Do not lever on the cooling fins or any joint face !
  23. My mod. 159 has it - I think it's a standard fitting for a longer seat. My mod. 85 and 92 both have a hole in the underside of the loop (lower side of the tube only) - any thoughts on that, anyone ? (The 85 also has a vertical hole through the centre of the loop but I suspect that's non-standard) Seems if the o.p. asked a silly question, there are plenty of people silly enough to answer it ..............!
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