lorenzo

Colby - John Healey is a recognised authority in setting up and using Amal Carbs. Here's what he had to say to a user with the same problem as yours :- "First you must establish that the float level is proper. The tickler travel is determined by how far the roll pin is pressed into the button. The travel is adjustable. To increase the travel pull the pin out of the button a tad. This is easily done with a diagonal cutting pliers (not electricians pliers!). Push the button to exend the pin out of the body as far as it will go. Grasp the pin firmly (it is hardened steel) at the point it is just exiting the body with the diagonal pliers and lever the pin out. Be careful that you don't mark the float bowl gasket face. You should be able to get another 1/8" or so of travel. This should solve your problem. " (I'll add that I haven't actually tried it myself as none of my carbs have ever displayed the problem.) HTH

In the UK/NI a 1975 Sherpa supplied as an observed trials machine would not have had lights fitted. Brochures of the period featured machines as supplied to other than the UK/NI market. The machine may or may not have had a lighting coil as supplied, but this is irrelevant to the stoplamp question as the stoplamp was powered by the ignition coil on machines supplied to other markets with full lighting equipment. To quote from the UK M.O.T Testers Manual (excerpt from the relevant section) : - Section 4.3.3 states stop lamps are not needed on motorcycles that : do not have front and rear position lamps. HTH

Chappo - Original carb. fitment would have been a 7/8" bore Monobloc type 375/34 or 375/51 ; this specn. number would be stamped on the mounting flange. As it's extremely unlikely that a Trials bike of maybe 60 years old would have retained its original carb., I wonder what the bike in question has ?

Max - Ratchet appears to be correctly assembled, although I can't see ratchet spring. To ensure correct return spring tension, the kickstart shaft also needs to be in the correct position in rerlation to the ratchet. Viewed from the left side (outside the crankcase) the chamfered hole for the spring should face forward i.e. at 9 o'clock when the ratchet is fully disengaged against its stop. woody's earlier response gives an excellent overview of what to look for. While your engine is apart, now would be a good time to attend to the crack in the crankcase above the ratchet ......?

I would challenge the idea that it's "better" ; right side brake would operate by cable - definitely not better in terms of feel or effectiveness. Modification : anything is possible with the necessary skills and financial wherewithall, but why would you even bother ? It's an old bike ; just accept it and enjoy it for what it is. Did you struggle with left foot brake / right foot gearchange, and did you consider changing over control sides when you last owned it ? Why not retrain your brain and feet to operate the bike as it is - definitely the more practical (and cheaper) option !

Loads of parts still available, but a word of warning : they ain't cheap. Get ready to load the money pistol.........

"J" identifies it as 325/340 cc (nominally 350, with 60mm. stroke) "M" is simply "motor" / engine (as opposed to "B" bastidor / frame no.) "173" .... I know nothing.

As stated by Pedronicman above : black to points & condenser, green to earth. Get rid of the mains flex. - it's just confusing the issue.....

New stanchions the way to go, as others have said. What many users don't appreciate is that the unplated insides of the stanchions are also susceptible to rust.

Welcome to the forum, Morten. Forks are Betor, and all the parts look correct and in the correct order. Good luck with your new bike.

Model 50 = El Bandido 350 1968-1971. HTH

I'm not sure how much left-handedness / righthandedness plays a part in how natural either set up feels. In my own collection of bikes I have both right change / left brake and left change / right brake ; the gearchange of these also varies between up-for-up and down-for-up. In use, after the first brake use or gearchange I can usually cope once on the move. I also have one twist-and-go bike that can sometimes feel quite strange with no foot controls and handlebar levers for both front and rear brakes. I once asked a very capable rider with great experience in trials, motocross, grass track racing and road riding what was his most memorably testing bike to ride. His answer ? A pre-war Indian........with left hand throttle twistgrip - hand operated gearchange and foot operated clutch.

It's quite possible that the fibre heel on the points has worn excessively (particularly if the cam/flywheel centre has been run dry) ; this can have a big effect on timing. Cam and fibre heel need a light smear of HMP grease to prevent this

2.5-2.7mm. BTDC is the measurement of piston travel at which the points begin to open. First, you need to set the maximum points gap by rotating the flywheel...... How are you determining the opening position ?

ellessemo - If it's an original tail lamp, this would have separate bulbs for stop and tail functions. Yes, it's true that green wire is for stop lamp bulb, black wire for tail lamp.

slowrider - Sorry to hear about your problem. Did the errant woodruff key cause any damage to keyway or the flywheel / shaft tapers ?

Thanks, mcman56. Can't see why universal regulator should not work on an Alpina. LSMO - I don't have any accurate means of measuring resistor/diode performance. Is polarity an issue ? - this is AC, after all. Additionally, if I understand its function correctly the resistor/diode affects only the stoplamp / LT igntion coil circuit. I believe there must be other ways to provide a stoplamp : LEDs and a small battery, maybe ?

There are also wiring schematics on this website : - Here's one I posted earlier (this is a scan of the appropriate page in the owners manual) :- This is not very clear ; here's another in Spanish that you should be able to make sense of :- Says Sherpa T, but wiring is exactly the same. Hope this helps.

This may help. Free download available here : - http://ossaengineering.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/OSSA-5-speed-manual.pdf which covers 250 Plonker model. otherwise Google "Clymer Ossa Manual"

You have a spark - good, you're getting somewhere. Wires in the pic. appear to me green, yellow, and black with a white tracer - in which case, not original. Yellow is normally connected to lighting coil. Is the lighting coil present ?

"3 wires from the engine" - what are the colours of these ? I'm assuming red, green and yellow. If this is the case, the black? wire from the HT coil should be connected to the red. Green (originally feed to stoplamp switch) needs to be connected to a reliable earth. Yellow you can insulate and ignore - this is the wire from the lighting coil. This applies to the original Femsa wiring.............which may have been altered in the last 50 years. The foregoing is simply to provide a spark and get the engine running. HTH

These resistors were o.e. fitment on several Bultaco models supplied with direct AC lighting, including many of the Sherpa ranges, and were I suspect relatively common. Could maybe have been used by other makes, too. Unfortunately, the availability of genuine Femsa parts has long been in decline. You don't state your location, but as with most other old bike parts, eBay is your friend. Leastways, that's where mine came from...........

Resistor is a proprietary Femsa item RSA1X-7 (Bultaco pt. # 85.21 - 217). If you simply want to get the bike running without stoplamp function, just connect the green wire to a reliable earth/ground. This will enable the mag. to produce a spark.

Hi, Ellessemo - Welcome to the Bultaco forum. Just checked a couple of mod. 85 resistors with analog multimeter. They both measure 4.7 ohms across the tags of the actual resistance; one measures 22 ohms, the other 25 between the spade terminal on the green wire and the frame mounting bracket (earth/ground) i.e. with the diode in circuit. Can't vouch for the accuracy of my meter, mind you........... HTH

atitagain - As you have a later swing arm, I wonder if you also have a later rear wheel (17mm. spindle, rather than the earlier 15mm.) ?