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The OD is 28.72mm
The ID is 23.5 to 23.79mm (slightly oval) I would guess the original tube ID was 15/16”??
It also has a ridge of braze where the tube is seem-welded
Hope this helps
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I think OTF is getting confused with the term offset?
Both wheels are parallel but if you draw a straight line on the floor one wheel is offset to the line but buy 'x' amount
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Sorry, can’t remember what size I made the bushes .. I have an old swing arm somewhere I will try and measure it up over the weekend
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http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-809-silkolene-pro-fst-fuel-system-treatment-for-petrol-engines.aspx
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Its so obvious now you point it out, I’m sure every novice rider would know that!
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DEXRON III is synthetic (DEXRON II is mineral)
So the above seems a bit of a Contradiction?
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They may well run an easy route, but all it says on the event calendar is two routes?
Might be worth stating a dead easy route, how do new riders know what to expect?
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Yep, with a lot more power going though them
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I used 10W40 car oil in my motocross bikes for years never had any problems,
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Maybe if all clubs run a novice, dead easy route it would attract more riders?
I offered to lend my friend a bike to have a go (he as been dying to have a go for a while), but he declined when he watched a trial said it looked way to hard (that was at shatterford)
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I use 40:1 for my Suzuki Beamish (Castrol TTS) It runs very well at this ratio
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I went out on my beamish yesterday, can’t believe how much grip it has in the wet (until my chain came off in mud deeper than my boots)!
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Just tried fitting a set of beamish forks I have lying around on my BSA, but the fork tubes seem to be smaller than 35mm this is stopping me clamping them on the bsa.
I’ve measured them and they are 34.87mm which seems to be closer to 1 3/8” did the beamish have odd sized forks?
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how can you have a pre65 pit bike!!!!!!!
the alloy you need is: 2014A
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nice looking yokes
do you ever ride in the BMCA trials?
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3/4" to 1" seems to give just the right amount
make sure you have the wide type arm to start with
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I've used NJB before with no problems, they worked well
But NJB need to be fitted upside-down to work (chrome rod at bottom)
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does anyone know how much the frame kits are?
I might put mine on ebay and start again!
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Does anyone know if a C15 engine will fit into a bantam frame?
I’ve built a rolling chassis for my bantam, no engine but I do have 3/4 of a c15 engine!
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It was a good show but the autojumble was a washout today, generally not as good as previous years?
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Does anyone know what type of Norton sliders are used to make the trick forks?
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I would disagree on the welding, I have inserted a bush into the swing-arm (see pic) even if they were butt welded I would be surprised if it did fail as most of the stress is transmitted though the shocks the swing arm acts more like a control arm than on a modern mono-shock bike (but I’m not the best welder!)
I have worked many years as an Automotive prototype engineer / quality engineer, after serving a technical engineering apprenticeship so I would hope my work would be satisfactory
But I would agree its not worth the time making parts, if you don’t have a CNC machine. But I’m in the process of buying one
I’m sure you would agree most of the fun is making your own parts, I find it very satisfying
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I’m now in the process of making my hubs and yokes, yokes are nearly finished just need to make the spindle and bar risers
It’s taking a little longer than planed as don’t seem to have a lot of time at the moment (wifes just had a baby!)
I will post some pics of the hubs soon
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